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93,Delta 88 shuts off...


Durin's Avatar
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07-18-02, 03:55 PM   #1  
Durin
93,Delta 88 shuts off...

My inlaws gave me a 1993 Olds Delta 88.

It has a 3800 TPI V6 with approx 123,000 miles.

The problem I'm having is this...

When the car is running during normal driving conditions it shuts down.And I mean total shut down as if I cut the car off.When it does this you cannot restart the car.It must set for 10 mins to an hour.

It seems to do this more often the hotter it is out side. I took the car out for a test drive the other day and the outside twmp was in the 80's and it shut down only once. Today it is in the upper 90's and it cut off 3 times.

Also my wife noticed that it only tended to shut off when she had to suddenly let off of the gas. i.e. to brake hard or to take a real sharp curve.

I'm not getting an error code either nor does the engine temp run hotter than 210-220.


The only repairs that I know of ...

A new water pump 2 months ago and a new air filter 3 months ago.

Thats it.

It has not had a tune up or oil change since they have had the car and that was 4 years ago. No fuel filter nothing.So it could be something simple but I'm not sure.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.Thank you.

 
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07-18-02, 05:21 PM   #2  
you need to check an see if you have spark when the car wont start there is alot of things that can cause this problem such as fuelpump,ignition module, crank sensor, ecm, but if you can narrow it down a little more to ignition or not.

 
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07-18-02, 05:42 PM   #3  
Durin
Ok thank you for the reply.The only other problem I can see with the car may have something to do with the security system.The car has some sort of special key and from what I have been told the inlaws had to "jiggle" the key in the lock to get it to start.

The secerity light is always on when the car is running.

Could the two be tied together somehow?Perhaps the secerity system is shutting the car down.....

 
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07-18-02, 05:47 PM   #4  
yes they can be tied together the wires breaking at the key and tumbler on the steering column is a common problem with many gm vehicles.

 
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07-19-02, 03:57 AM   #5  
Joe_F
I agree with Bejay. The VATS (vehicle anti theft system) is a trouble point and would probably do as you described.

Not worth a darn for preventing theft. They just tow the car IF they want a Delta 88 .

I would look for frayed wires from the lock cylinder/switch as BeJay mentioned. The cause of the light is the likely cause of the problem too.

 
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07-19-02, 05:03 AM   #6  
Durin
Ok thanks for the advice.I'll get right on it and post the results.

 
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07-28-02, 04:16 PM   #7  
Durin
Update:

The car is still shutting off on me. I have power to everything,the motor turns over just fine so this last time that it cut off on me I checked to see if I was getting spark at the plugs and I was not.

I let is set for 30 mins and it cranked right up again and I went on. I'm stumped..

Any clues?

 
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07-28-02, 06:29 PM   #8  
well if you do not have spark then the problem is most likely either a bad ignition module or a bad crank sensor, cause the problem is intermitant if you take the ignition module in for testing it will likely test good and very well be whats causing the problem, you have a few options either buy a manual and attempt to do the no start test in the short amount of time it doesnt start may take several attempts just to complete the flow chart, take it to a shop where they can drive the car to get it to act up and then they can use a lab scope to determine if the sensor or module is failing, or just pick a part to replace and see if it fixes your problem the crank sensor is cheaper but a little more labor involved in changing.

 
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07-28-02, 06:31 PM   #9  
Joe_F
Whoa Nelley.

Is the security light still coming on? If so, there could be problems with the VATS as mentioned before.

If not, the ignition system is the cause for lack of spark. Check the autolibrary link I have below for how to test some of the parts.

 
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07-28-02, 06:46 PM   #10  
Durin
Yes the light is still coming on.I didn't see any broken or frayed wires.But that doesn't mean that they arn't there.

A new ignition module (key and all) will cost me around 35.00 so thats not a big deal.Now I just need to find the time, heh

 
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09-20-02, 06:06 PM   #11  
Durin
*Update part two*

1)Well I fixed the security problem, Still had the same problem.

2)Replaced the ECM module still kept cutting off.

3)Replaced all three ignition coils and that still didn't fix the problem.Every time the motor reached normal (or what I assumed ) temp it would keep shutting down.

So I had reached the end of my rope last night and I didn't know what else to do.A buddy told me that he thought the coils were getting too hot and shutting down so I tried number three and it kept true to form.The problem to me had to be tied into the temp somehow so I got the inlaws on the phone and asked a few questions about what had been done to the car recently and sure enough he had put in a hotter thermostat!Went out and spent 10.00 on the proper thermostat and problem solved.

Ecm+ignition coils=220.00

Thermostat=10.00

And the kicker of it all is that my wife(whom I had to show where the gas goes in when I first married her) told me she thought it was the thermo...

Anyways I would like to thank you guys for the advice,without it I would have been totally lost.

 
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09-21-02, 09:40 AM   #12  
Joe_F
Good job!

 
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09-25-02, 06:54 PM   #13  
Durin
Well I hate to say this but I'm still having problems with this auto.
Apparently the ignition module or the coil three pack that sits on top of it are getting too hot. (thats why driving on the highway doesn't cause it to shut off)

I thought that maybe the cooling fans were not working properly but I'm not sure.I have checked both fuses, replaced both temp sensors and put in a new thermostat.And this is what I have noticed so far...

When the air-conditioning is cut on the fans come on (check)

When the motor reaches about 250 degrees the fans come on (check)

The recommended thermo temp is 192 degrees (hot)

When the motor is shut off at 250 degrees the fans donot continue to run. (minus?)

What else do I need to look at to help keep the darn thing cool?

 
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09-25-02, 07:18 PM   #14  
the fans should come on at about 230 - 235 with the a/c off what are you using to check temp with, is it accurate, i still think you have an electronic problem even though if you did get the engine to run cooler it would likely only fix the problem temporarily.

 
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09-25-02, 07:20 PM   #15  
TECHMAN
Stop Stop Stop we are off in left feild. We need to get back to the basics here so i dont care if the water is so hot it is boiling over the car will set there and run (for a little while) HAHAHAHA. Back up about 5 are 6 post and pick back up with bejay and replace the pickup assy on front of eng. It is a comman prob. with this veh. and have a long hist if intermit pro. sound like you have replaced everything eleas . ANd if it still runs to hot , and 230 to 240 degrees is normal. than we will fix it, But not untill we fix the ing. elect prob. ________Good LUck--DAve_____---

 
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09-25-02, 07:34 PM   #16  
Durin
Originally posted by TECHMAN
Stop Stop Stop we are off in left feild. We need to get back to the basics here so i dont care if the water is so hot it is boiling over the car will set there and run (for a little while) HAHAHAHA. Back up about 5 are 6 post and pick back up with bejay and replace the pickup assy on front of eng. It is a comman prob. with this veh. and have a long hist if intermit pro. sound like you have replaced everything eleas . ANd if it still runs to hot , and 230 to 240 degrees is normal. than we will fix it, But not untill we fix the ing. elect prob. ________Good LUck--DAve_____---
Sorry I'm not trying to sound too dumb here but could you clarify that a bit for me?

 
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09-25-02, 07:43 PM   #17  
TECHMAN
Sorry but you need to put a crank senser on ft. of eng and be done with it. bejay is wright you have a elect prob fix it first and than test your cooling that all i am saying._Dave_

 
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09-25-02, 07:44 PM   #18  
Durin
Originally posted by bejay
the fans should come on at about 230 - 235 with the a/c off what are you using to check temp with, is it accurate, i still think you have an electronic problem even though if you did get the engine to run cooler it would likely only fix the problem temporarily.
I'm just going by the gauge on the dash so the temps are just estimates at best.I agree withy the electrical idea as well.What is componets are left that control when the fan comes on and off?

 
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09-25-02, 07:45 PM   #19  
Durin
Originally posted by TECHMAN
Sorry but you need to put a crank senser on ft. of eng and be done with it. bejay is wright you have a elect prob fix it first and than test your cooling that all i am saying._Dave_
Understood TECHMAN and thank you for the advice.

 
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