Soffit Removal

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  #1  
Old 11-24-02, 08:09 AM
kbuilta
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Question Soffit Removal

I'm new to the forum but...

I'm putting up new kitchen cabinets (removing original cabinets, house is 45 years old) and I have to remove the existing soffits to increase the space above the countertop. In fact, the soffits are now removed so the walls are open to the studs a foot down from the ceiling where the cabinets were and the ceiling is open to the attic to about 18 inches from the walls in the same places.

The open space extends about 25 linear feet total around part of the kitchen. The new cabinets will cover all the wall gap after I patch with drywall and finish, and all but maybe 6 inches of the ceiling for the whole length except about 6 feet which will be totally exposed to view.

The existing walls and ceiling are drywall (two layers!) and finished with what looks like a skim coat of plaster (1/16th to 1/8th inch thick) then paint for a smooth finish. I want to patch the old soffit spaces with new drywall and match the smooth surfaces. It's been suggested that I use blue board to fill the spaces then skim coat to finish.

My question is, is it reasonable to attempt skimming the patched sections to match the existing surfaces? Or must I consider, perish the thought, skimming the whole room?

Also, I'm not familiar with blue board but one guy said it must be used instead of "regular" drywall if skimming is going to be done. What makes it different?

I have no experience hanging drywall and have never skim coated before but I've done lots of home repair and painting and have reasonable mechanical skills.

Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 11-24-02, 07:24 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Taylors, SC
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It seems that you could skim only the part needed to match. It might take a while, but learning goes slowly sometimes.
 
  #3  
Old 11-24-02, 08:09 PM
NutAndBoltKing
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Thumbs up

The difference between 'blueboard' and standard 'drywall' is in it's paper. The paper on blueboard is formulated to accept and allow a layer of plaster to adhere to it. The paper on standard drywall is prefinished and ready for paint.

Nowhere is it carved in stone that you 'must' use blueboard for your planned skimcoat - but the results will be better, as might be the longevity of the skimcoat you're applying.

Don't worry; there's no secret to hanging drywall. Make mistakes, it's okay - just take it down and throw it out. The only person other than yourself who will know you made mistakes will be the garbageman. Just take your time, measure twice and cut once is the truth.

As for doing the skimcoat I'd take the scraps from the blueboard, practice on them, and get some feel and confidence first. It's actually fun and covers up boo-boos.
 
  #4  
Old 02-03-03, 04:53 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Michigan
Posts: 126
I had a soffit removed from kitchen just like your mentioning. I did not skim entire wall just enough to blend the two surfaces together; (old drywall to new) I used regular wallboards-no problem; just take your time to hide the transitions between the two wallboards-sand-coat-sand-coat as many times as required; take you time!
Use a light source aimed at wallboard to exxagerate imperfections while sanding and coating.
 
  #5  
Old 02-03-03, 09:53 AM
brickeyee
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Practice with Easysand90 mixed with a minimum of water. About as thick as toothpaste, or a little thicker. It will not shrink as much as premix, will contain less water, and is easier to skim with since you can make the mud thicker by using only as much water as you need. Treat the joint between old and new like any other joint. For setting compounds use mesh tape, then feather out at least 12-18 inches and the join will not show. Regular mud (premix) has so much water it is difficult to get large smooth areas.
 
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