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plaster or joint compound over wood paneling

plaster or joint compound over wood paneling


Old 06-17-03, 07:15 PM
Kathy L
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plaster or joint compound over wood paneling

Can plaster or joint compound be applied over wood paneling. Several people in this area are doing this but it has no been long enough since I have seen this applications to know if it will last or if it will prove to be a bad idea. I know I can paint but really don't care for the look of painted paneling.
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Old 06-17-03, 07:57 PM
coops28's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City
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No. It is cheeper and easier to remove the paneling and hang new drywall.
Old 06-17-03, 08:00 PM
awesomedell's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 2,425
Hi Kathy, welcome to the forums.

Can't say I've ever used drywall mud on wood paneling, or even ever seen it done. , but I've heard of Cajuns doing weirder things. I will say that drywall mud will stick to most any bldg material, it might just work out fine. I'd think wood filler would be a more approriate fill to use to smooth out the paneling before painting

Good luck & post back & let us know how it works out.
Old 06-18-03, 08:25 AM
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 618
I am actually doing that same thing right now. I have nastly grooved wood laminate paneling in the living room. I am doing a poor man's Venetian Plaster over it. I am using straight Plaster of Paris in the big, honking bag. Mix up small amounts (that stuff dries QUICK) and apply like you have had one too many cocktails. Looks great and is hard as a rock. Test poundings and test nailings all passed my careful eye, so I don't see why joint compound or hot mud wouldn't work. Do a test area first though to see if you like it. My method is cheaper than re-drywalling, though certainly new drywall IS the best option.

If you don't like painted paneling, hang some wall liner over your paneling and paint it. You can get it online via www.wallliner.com or your local home improvement/wallpaper store. I have done liner over paneling many times and it is cheaper and quicker than re-drywalling.
Old 06-18-03, 11:39 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City
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Ok everybody, I wasn't going to go here but... Why can't you put drywall mud over wood paneling? You can, but here is why its cheaper and easier to remove and hang new drywall. If you have the cheap thin paneling it is not attached very well so you have to go around and screw it off. Even then if it's attched to studs only (nodrywall underneath) then it will be too wavy and flimsy. Now if you have the nice 3/4 inch paneling you probably won't have to do that. Heres the thing. everywhere there is a crack or groove you will have to tape or it will crack out.
So the amount of time and money to tape and skim the entire surface will be more than hanging and finishing new drywall and the outcome will be superior.

Hey wallpaper, did you tape your grooves? They will probably crack out this winter if you didn't.
Old 06-19-03, 07:08 PM
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 618
No tape on the grooves for me. If any cracking occurs that will add character to the Venetian look, so it is actually a good thing! I would probably have to paint the cracked areas to make them look right though.
Old 03-10-10, 07:38 AM
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1
Oh gosh, haha. I was looking online for solutions to cover paneling versus re-drywalling, and the boyfriend and I did the following based on my research:

1. Light sanded the paneling
2. wiped the dust
3. purchased a bunch of 32 oz. containers of wood filler ($6.50 x 5 is way cheaper than $500 for new drywall and mud) then applied the filler
4. sanded down the filler after drying.

Now we are at the stage where we could apply another thin coat of filler and sand again because some grooves are still visible.

I never even thought of taping the grooves. Is it too late to do this? Or should we just go ahead and do our second filler coat and sand with our fingers crossed that there will be no cracking?

Old 03-10-10, 01:13 PM
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Location: USA
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I also believe applying a coat of j/c to paneling is a bad idea and yes the joints will crack. I suppose you could tape them but I don't have much confidence in the whole applying j/c over paneling thing. I have been on jobs where someone had applied j/c on paneling previously and it was flaking off - hard to fix that in a cost effective manner.

IMO the best thing is to prime and paint the paneling as is [caulk the joints] unless you intend to hang drywall. A poor job of filling the grooves looks a lot worse than painted grooves.
Old 03-10-10, 04:30 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Calumet Township, Indiana
Posts: 616
After I painted the paneling in my living room, I decided the paneling was too much. So I did what you are asking about on two opposite walls. I like the look of paneling but in my small living room, four walls was too much.

If the paneling comes off easily and you just have nail holes to fill, that's the best option.
4 rounds of shrinkage and sanding/refilling and you can still see a slight difference in the sheen where the lines were. You will not save yourself time verses removing the paneling. I only did this because I made the decision after the fact. No tape except for corners.

Old 03-12-10, 02:26 PM
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2
Best way

Get 1/4 inch thick drywall. It might not be on display at your local store but they should be able to get it for you. Fasten it directly over paneling and finish as usual. That would be the best and least disruptive route. You will also need outlet spacers (little plastic strips that you fold that compensate for the new depth).

Last edited by 85diesel; 03-12-10 at 02:27 PM. Reason: new info

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