Drywall Install

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  #1  
Old 11-12-03, 08:32 PM
Hoernig
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Drywall Install

I'm searching for advice. Can anyone give me instructions detailing the best or correct way to spackle new drywall. How to make good smooth walls without lumps or bulges. The first coat on the tape is good.
 
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Old 11-13-03, 11:28 AM
mudder
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If the tape is firmly embedded into the joints I suggest using a finnishing trowel for the first coat this trowel is concave and will leave a rounded slight build up uf mud that will shrink near to flat. Fill the long side of this trowel and spread over joint(where the two tapered edges of the gypsum meet), next run over the entire joint to even out applying enough pressure to feather the edges.
For the 'but joints' fill this trowel and spread mud on either side of the tape (one edge of the trowell following the middle of the tape) smooth as before feathering the edges and leaving a very thin covering over the tape itself.
In the corners use a wider knife than uses to apply tape. and do one side one day and the other the next day if dry. When smoothing out mud apply more pressure to the outer edge than in the corner itself to ensure tape is covered. It is very important to stagger the corners ie: In a room look at the corner where two walls meet do the right hand side, at the ceiling on the left to the ceiling side of the joint and to the right do the wall side of the wall/ceiling joint continue where when you start mudding a corner you are not applying mud over freshly applied mud.
Clear as mud?
For your final coat use a wider flat finish trowel or knife a foot wide. Do the but joints first, spread a thinner coat over the very middle of the joint (where the actual tape is) and another knife width of mud on either side of it. Smooth the middle and feather out either side. This should be about two feet wide and is merely to fill minor imperfections of the first coat.
Allow a half hour to set. Use the same finish trowel or knife to apply and smooth out tapered joints.(no need to make this wider just another cthin coat to fill imperfections. Allow an hour to set and do the other side of the corners.
 
  #3  
Old 11-16-03, 11:20 AM
Doyle Self
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The only thing I will add is to not use the sheetrock mud strait out of the bucket without adding just a tade of water. You will need a 1/2 inch drill and paddle to mix.
Doyle
 
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Old 11-16-03, 02:40 PM
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I use mud straight from the box/ bucket everyday. I think its a personal thing.
 
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Old 11-17-03, 05:25 AM
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Coops, you're talking about the lite mud right, all-purpose is kind of thick for that isn't it.

Maybe I'm wrong there, but I box finish, so even lite mud must be thinned to run thru boxes, angleheads, and such.
 
  #6  
Old 11-17-03, 06:52 AM
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Absolutley! I use plus 3 mostly. I also hand finish. All purpose is really thick and way too heavy for me.
 
  #7  
Old 11-17-03, 12:17 PM
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Glad you clarified that Coops, I gotta be honest I did just once use all purpose right out of the bucket. Long time ago I went in on a retro, customer had stripped wallpaper from a combo of plaster and old drywall walls in two rooms Two walls in each rm, (ext. walls) were plaster. Customer was too cheap to recover the whole thing with fresh board per my advice & I was too hungry to turn down the job.. (God I hate it when that happens)
Anyway, after web taping all the cracks in the plaster I put what would be termed a level 5 coat over the entire wall. Actually ended up putting on 2 coats, & then 2 coats of primer, then sprayed knockdown, then 2 coats of finish paint. Lost my butt on that one, think I made $100 after everything, for 4 days of work. I was not a happy camper. I do not recommend anyone try this.
That's why I either cover old plaster & wallpaper or else I let someone else have the job.
 
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