hardcoat plaster repair

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  #1  
Old 03-10-04, 06:34 AM
aukie
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hardcoat plaster repair

I have a 21" by !5.5" hole in my kitchen ceiling after a plumbing leak.I screwed a piece of drwall into the hole.My finish is two part hardcoat.Do I have to use blueboard? Tape seams?What product do I use for repair/? Base coat and then veneer coat? or just veneer coat? Help?
 
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  #2  
Old 03-14-04, 08:25 AM
awesomedell's Avatar
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aukie,

Hello & welcome to the forums. Very sorry for the delayed response, very busy time for alot of us right now.

I'm a drywaller not a plasterman & they would probably have a much different approach than I do, but I have patched alot of plaster in situations like yours. I use drywall like you said, (try to match it up for thickness with the existing plaster, saves coats & time to make everything flat & smooth)

Once you have the drywall patch securely fastened in place, prefill any gaps around the edges. I use a setting type compound for small patches, Easy-Sand 90 is what I'd recommend. Comes in powder form in a bag, add water sparingly and mix well until you have a consistency something like a cake batter. Now you have to work this stuff quickly, it sets to sand ready in 90 mins & using hot water will accelerate that a bit, so just make up enough to use on one coat at a time.

So as I said, prefill your gaps, allow to dry & then just run your drywall blade down it to knock the high spots off. Next coat the seams with another thin coat of mud & I use paper tape, which I dunk quickly in a bucket of water to moisten it before applying it on the seam. Others advocate using mesh tape, but IMO using paper gives both a stronger joint & is easier to cover & finish.

After the tape is applied over the seam you need to embed it, I use 4" or 6" drywall knife for this. Start in the center of the seam, work towards the ends & firmly press to embed to tape & force the excess mud out from under the tape. Hold the knife with 2 or 3 fingers on the back side of the blade to help apply firm even pressure on the tape as you run the seam. Wipe excess mud off the surface immediately & allow to dry.

Lightly sand to remove high spots, examine the tape and make sure the edges are tight & there are no bubbles in the tape. If you do have small bubble, no worry, just cut them out neatly with a utility knife and it will cover on your next coat. After that drys, sand lightly again as before & apply another coat with a larger blade, I use either a 8" or 10" for the first fill coat, which comes next. Just run a feathered coat over the seams, but if your patch material (drywall) isn't flush or plumb with the rest of the wall you should skim the entire patch with this coat as well to build it up. Allow to dry & then sand lightly, & repeat the whole deal one more time using a 12" blade. Allow to dry, sand, apply primer & paint.

If the patch is on a textured finished wall, you can omit the last coat with the 12" knife, just apply texture to match, & then primer & paint. However I have to warn you that matching existing texture is an art form & not something you're going to get right the first time out. Generally I'd recommend removing the existing texture off the entire wall or lid by sanding or scraping & then retexturing the entire surface.

Hope that helps you out.
 
  #3  
Old 03-14-04, 12:01 PM
boardslinger
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You can use just the rock you put up. Use mesh tape for plaster work, it's a little thicker, you can use a white coat plaster, pretty much an all purpose. You will not have to sand, but you will need to have a hard bristle brush to smooth down. this will eliminate any need for sanding. float the plaster over existing plaster to create a feathered effect. You won't notice that there was a patch even there. Keep you trowel or knife clean, this is the determining factor to whether or not you patch looks good. Good Luck
 
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Old 03-15-04, 11:57 AM
aukie
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Originally posted by boardslinger
You can use just the rock you put up. Use mesh tape for plaster work, it's a little thicker, you can use a white coat plaster, pretty much an all purpose. You will not have to sand, but you will need to have a hard bristle brush to smooth down. this will eliminate any need for sanding. float the plaster over existing plaster to create a feathered effect. You won't notice that there was a patch even there. Keep you trowel or knife clean, this is the determining factor to whether or not you patch looks good. Good Luck
What type of brush? Also i have a swirl pattern to blend into.How do I do that?
 
  #5  
Old 03-15-04, 02:09 PM
boardslinger
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Home Depot has plaster brushes. Ask them for one for smoothing, and inform them you need one for swirl patterns. The will be hard bristle brushes. Good Luck.
 
  #6  
Old 03-16-04, 12:19 PM
aukie
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Originally posted by boardslinger
Home Depot has plaster brushes. Ask them for one for smoothing, and inform them you need one for swirl patterns. The will be hard bristle brushes. Good Luck.
Should I tape ,coat the tape and drywall....let dry then swirlcoat .to blend in with existing?
 
  #7  
Old 03-16-04, 02:47 PM
boardslinger
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Yes. Let us know how it went. Good Luck.
 
  #8  
Old 03-22-04, 11:58 AM
aukie
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How do I do a sand swirl finish on my ceiling to blend in with existing?
 
  #9  
Old 03-22-04, 03:15 PM
boardslinger
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Mix the mudd alittle looser than the base coat. Spread it on, wet your brush, shake off the excess, then stick the brush in the plaster and twist. Over lap the area that you plastered and feather it out. You can also run your finger over the edge to really push it down and hide. Good Luck. Please post a pic when you get done. Would love to see how it turned out.
 
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