Taping seams

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  #1  
Old 11-07-06, 04:38 AM
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Taping seams

I should tape along the seams where the drywall meets the ceiling eh? I did go over the exsiting drywall but thought it might look a bit messy.

Is it standard...tape all seams?

Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 11-07-06, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by coopns
Is it standard...tape all seams?
Yep, it is. Don't tape and they're guaranteed to crack. And you'll get better results with paper tape than fiberglass.
 
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Old 12-17-06, 08:28 AM
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Here here on using paper over the other stuff like fiberglass! I am new to all this and am working on our bedroom with plaster cracks and new drwall in the closet. I thought the adhesive based tape with lots of little holes would be a great thing, but it is awful annd makes the work ten times harder (and longer). Take it from a newby (as well as the pros), paper tape is the way to go!

Now I have to sign off and get back to fixing the mess I created! :-) It is a tough lesson, but along with paper tape patience and thin coats of mud is the rule.
 
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Old 12-18-06, 06:18 AM
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"I thought the adhesive based tape with lots of little holes would be a great thing, but it is awful annd makes the work ten times harder (and longer)"

I agree that fiberglass tape is not as effective as paper. I used fiberglass years ago when it first came out and I had lots of cracks. However, the big (and IMO only) advantage of fiberglass is that it's faster and easier to use than paper. No bed coat and it sticks to the wall when you put it up. I prefer fiberglass tape for small repairs.
 
  #5  
Old 12-18-06, 02:08 PM
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Thanks for the reply Wayne. Can I ask a question please? I am fixing up a room with plaster and lots of cracks. I have used the fiberglass tape on many of these cracks - on flat walls, corners ceilings - and have my first coat of mud applied. Should I just go with it or tear it all out and start over with paper? I think most of the cracks were due to roof leaks and settling. The room was probably not painted or worked on for many years - we bought the house two years ago.

I have a new roof and we regraded the yard on that corner of the house for proper drainage, so the two main causes of the cracks may be taken care of. In addition, if it cracks again and is quite bad I think I would just have the whole room redone with 1/4 drywall over the plaster any way.

Thanks in advanced.
 
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Old 12-18-06, 03:55 PM
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I don't mess with plaster homes very often but when I do need to repair settlement cracks I usually use durabond - etch out the crack a little and fill. If it is real bad I'll use tape.
 
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Old 12-18-06, 08:08 PM
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So I didn't even need to tape all the plaster cracks? I mean, a lot of them weren't that bad. Can I just rip the tape off and fill? Ugh. All my books say to tape every crack, but so often they refer to drywall and not plaster. Right?

Really dumb question here, but I have read all of you pros recommending Durabond, but I never see it at Lowes or my other local hardware stores. They all seem to carry other brands of mud and no Durabond is in sight in the section with all the wall materials. Am I just blind as a bat or something? Is the Sheetrock brand premixed stuff okay? Blue and Green, I have them both. Or is premixed for wimps? :-)

All kidding aside, thanks so much to everyone here. I am learning a lot. Tonight I taped and mudded some seams and corners on the new drywall in the closet and it actually went well. Watering down the premixed stuff was a great tip. It really helped. I am almost getting the hang - no pun intended - of this and what better place to learn than in a closet! Thanks again.
 
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Old 12-19-06, 05:50 AM
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Definitely tape all of your cracks the way you are. Use all purpose mud to tape with. It has more adhesive in it. The durabond spoken of here is more often called quick set. It comes in a bag. Probably USG brand in a white bag.
 
  #9  
Old 12-19-06, 05:57 AM
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I usually find Durabond in the paint section with the repair puttys rather than the building materials department.

I, too, am renovating an old plaster/lath home with the same issues you're encountering. I find that the biggest problem with the numerous plaster stress cracks is that, after you tape/mud them, you have a smooth finish vs. the stubbly finish of the original plaster. It's hard to try to duplicate it. I've gone to skim coating the entire wall after repairing the cracks - with great results. 1/4 drywall would probably be easier to get a smooth finish - but I wanted to avoid all the associated trim work that new walls would entail.
 
  #10  
Old 12-19-06, 01:34 PM
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Thanks for the tips! For some reason I am not certain smooth areas with taping will by a problem for me! :-)

By the way, my neighbor had the 1/4 drywall treatment done - downstairs, stairwell and two bedrooms for $6000! Yikes.
 
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Old 12-19-06, 02:21 PM
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thezster, what do you use to skimcoat the entire wall, what tool?
 
  #12  
Old 12-19-06, 04:56 PM
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12 -15inch mud knife (had it so long I don't know without going downstairs to get it.....)
 
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