Hairline cracks

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  #1  
Old 01-30-07, 07:38 AM
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Hairline cracks

Hello,

Last winter, I put up new drywall in my family room. To my dismay, several of the joints have hairline cracks now. I don't know if I did something wrong or what is going on. I have radiant heat in my home and it is pretty dry in here, but the other walls don't have this problem. Can this be repaired by just opening the crack a little and putting compound in there? What kind of compound should I use? Maybe I used the wrong compound to join the sheetrock? I used the premixed mud with mesh tape. I would appreciate any input, thank you.

Tom
 
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  #2  
Old 01-30-07, 10:43 AM
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" .... with mesh tape."

Tom - IMO the mesh tape is the problem. I used mesh tape for the first time years ago to redo a bedroom in a house that was only a year or so old. Within a year every single joint in the room had hairline cracks.
The good news is I only replaced the tape in one bad area. I repaired the other cracks leaving the tape in place and they never reappeared. Just a guess, but I think the house was settling and the mesh tape is more susceptible to movement cracks.
 
  #3  
Old 01-30-07, 10:44 AM
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Hey Tom

The 'sticky' tape is probably the problem. It just doesn't seem to adhere well long term. I know some finishers say you need to use adhesive spray for added stick and other say only use durabond for the first coat of mud.

If any tape is loose it should be addressed. With a little luck maybe you can get by with just repairing the cracks. That's what I'd do......and keep an eye on it [maybe hope and pray]
 
  #4  
Old 01-30-07, 11:39 AM
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Thank you for the info guys, I just don't get it, I was told that the mesh tape is by far the strongest?! It doesn't make a difference that I used the premixed mud and not the harder 90 or 45 min stuff? Someone told me that that may be the problem. Anyway, so just gouge it out a little and fill the crack with mud? What type and no skimming the entire thing, just fill the crack? Thank you again.

In the future should I just use paper tape? I am really confused, I thought that the mesh was supposed to be the best.

Tom
 
  #5  
Old 01-30-07, 03:59 PM
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Tom - For a crack repair I would just use the premix. You can probably get by with a small can. I'm not a DW pro so I don't use the quick setting stuff. I use the premix mud for patches and small repairs although I've also used it for larger jobs with good results.
I also use mesh tape for patches. It may be stronger than paper, but I don't think it works as well. As Mark said, since it's not truly bedded it comes loose easier than paper, it's also harder to get a crisp corner joint and I think it's more prone to crack from movement.
It is easier to put up though.
 
  #6  
Old 01-31-07, 07:27 AM
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So the kind of compound that you use does not make the difference in cracks being there? The only reason to use the 45 or 90 min compound is for the dry time, not strenght?

As far as settling goes, my house is over 40 years old, but do you think that the drywall was settling and not necessarily the house?

Does it make a difference if you put up drywall boards with the lenght of it being up or sideways? I have heard conflicting advice on this too.

For corners, I always buy the metal enforced paper corners and have never, ever had a problem, they are awesome.

I have made repairs to cracks with the premix before and they just come back. I gogued out the crack and filled it and it came back. Maybe I will try the harder stuff, but should I just try to fill the crack or skim the entire joint? Thank you very much for you help.
 
  #7  
Old 01-31-07, 07:48 AM
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Durabond dries harder and isn't affected by moisture like j/c is. Some say it's stronger - I don't know for sure.

Depending on a variety of conditions a home can settle at any age although it is more likely when new. I don't know if there are any differences in how rock is hung other than ease of finishing and horizontal helps to minimize differences in framing.
 
  #8  
Old 01-31-07, 06:33 PM
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I've also seen it written that mesh tape should be sprayed with an adhesive first and the first coat over it should be setting compound. Too late now, but every pro here will tell you to skip the mesh and only use paper tape.
 
  #9  
Old 01-31-07, 07:49 PM
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If you visit the web sites of USG and Gold Bond they will tell you to use only a setting type compound with mesh tape.
As far as the strength goes try this: Cut equal lengths of paper and mesh maybe 4" or so then grasp by diagonal corners and pull. You will find that actually the paper is stronger. Mesh is good with setting compounds but not good with drying compounds and to allow just a little movement behind the tape without cracking paper is better.
 
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