Opinions needed on drywall replacement...


  #1  
Old 05-07-07, 12:38 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 602
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Arrow Opinions needed on drywall replacement...

We had some real knuckleheads who were technically professional drywallers that I kicked out of my house when their work wasn't what was promised. I redid their work in a bedroom and it has been finished and painted for at least 6 months. Now on the opposite side of one wall I was getting ready to salvage what they did to 2 new 12' sheets of drywall and thought it would be easier/faster to carefully take them down and put up new sheets.

My concern is that when I hang the new sheets it might have an effect on the finished wall on the other side - like cracks or causing screws to show, etc.

Any thoughts on whether I should be concerned about this or if I should replace the sheets?

Thanks guys!
 
  #2  
Old 05-07-07, 01:13 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,783
Received 871 Upvotes on 762 Posts
Not everyone who gets paid to do a certain job is a pro

About the only concern to the other side of the wall will be in hammering in the nails which might vibrate the other side enough to cause nail pops or minor cracking. Using screws should eliminate this concern.

Do the boards really need to be rehung/replaced? Is there a reason that with a little more effort they wouldn't finish well?
 
  #3  
Old 05-07-07, 08:11 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 602
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
I don't know if the boards "need" to be replaced - I guess it's a judgement call. The top board is about 3/8" or so below the ceiling and none of the taped joints are flat, so I don't know what's going on with them exactly...
 
  #4  
Old 05-08-07, 04:34 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,783
Received 871 Upvotes on 762 Posts
The gaps can be prefilled prior to taping - more or less fill them with joint compound or preferably a setting compound like durabond. Be sure to not over fill the gap, when dry tape and mud as you normally would.

Not sure I understand about the taped joints, have they already been taped? Or are the booggered up and raised edges where they meet? Is it just the butt joints? Can you post a pic? use a free site like photobucket.com and supply the link.

If the joints are raised you may be able to take a hammer and gently beat them down allowing you to tape and finish it.
 
  #5  
Old 05-08-07, 10:38 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 602
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
They are taped and supposedly finish sanded so I don't know what I will find when I try to finish them properly. The butchers that did it kept telling me that as long as it's feather edged it's fine - no matter what kind of humps they left.
 
  #6  
Old 05-08-07, 01:54 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,783
Received 871 Upvotes on 762 Posts
As long as there isn't any loose tape I'd sand it down to where you could float a nice even coat of mud over it. It is probably a whole lot less work to fix what they did than to start over. Use a sanding pole [or the hand sander that is just like it minus the pole] to sand it smooth. The sanding pole holds the paper flat so you can sand out all the humps.
 
  #7  
Old 05-09-07, 09:32 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 602
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
I guess I can try 1st, then if it's no good, down they come...
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: