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Using Hot Mud - How Much for Drywall to DAP butt join?

Using Hot Mud - How Much for Drywall to DAP butt join?


Old 06-17-07, 06:01 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 25
Question Using Hot Mud - How Much for Drywall to DAP butt join?


I'm installing a 3 Piece Neo-angle Shower unit.

I have framed it into the existing studs after removing the old drywall out to 10 inches beyond the outer edge of the shower wall mounting flange.

I am installing GP's DensArmor Plus (DAP) with a 10" x 96" section butted into the old drywall and running over the mounting flange of the shower wall leaving a 1/8" gap for caulking around the shower wall edge.

I will be using mesh tape and setting compound at the butt joint between the old drywall and the DAP.

The geometry works out that I have "valley-bump" leading from the butt joint to the old wall edge to the DAP-Shower edge which stands out 5/32" from the old drywall surface.

I will follow up with at least 2 layers of regular drywall mud whuch will effectively cover all of the new DAP, even the pieces above the shower walls.

Question(s) - How agressive should I be in leveling the surfaces with the setting compound? Just cover/fill the tape well for a solid join and depend on the follow up coats of regular mud for leveling since regular mud is easier to sand. Or lay it on thick to take advantage of the strength of the setting compond? Setting compound is only used on the first coat right?

Thanks helping out a sheetrock dummy!
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Old 06-17-07, 02:06 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
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It depends how good you are. If you can't apply it that well and have to rely on heavy sanding, then by all means top off with the lightweight stuff that you can sand, in powder(bag) or premix pail(s).

But if you are good at mudding, the setting type really knifes on well. Always be sure never to lay it on too thick, and never wind up with high spots! You can always run your hand or straight edge over what you have done and fill in low spots insuccessive coats. One trick is to run your hand over it, feel low spots and circle these shapes with a pencil, and then fill in. Several coats per day, in fact, if you need to. Once you have the initial mudcoats to where you have the general flatness of the wall that you are trying to achieve, remember at this stage it does not have to be perfect - the idea is to have the general shape of the wall to be flat - then sucessive tight skim coats will fill in any holes, ridges, etc., and each coat will dry quite quickly and you can even feather edge to where little sanding is necessary
Old 06-17-07, 06:09 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 25
Thumbs up

Thanks for the response Ecman!

It gives me the pointers I needed as a DIYer re-modeler.

If I read your reply correctly, I can use multiple coats of hot-mud in sucessive layers?

I am NOT that good at mudding, however I do have some build-up/leveling that using hot-mud, in successive layers, will speed up without too much risk of creating unnecessary high spots that require sanding.

I just wasn't sure about the details/specifics to watch out for in using hot-mud (first-time) that you describe so well.

Fortunately, the hot-mud I have is the 90 minute stuff (60 minute "workable" time period, I think?). So I won't have to rush as much as I would with s shorter set-up period type.

One more question - the hot-mud can be used as the first coat to spot nails with as well, correct?

Old 06-18-07, 10:45 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,834
Hot mud can be used for all/any coats but it is preferable to NOT use it on the finish coat.

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