Trimming Drywall (Installing Backsplash)

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  #1  
Old 12-26-07, 10:13 AM
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Unhappy Trimming Drywall (Installing Backsplash)

I'll apologize up front if I posted this in the wrong forum but I'm not quite sure where this question would fit.

I have a problem with a bulging area below our new kitchen window that has drywall and joint compound (about a 4 inch area in length)...The countertop installers (who did a fantastic job by the way) were not able to attach the last piece of backsplash (4" high) to the wall because the wall surface was not even; they said I had to "shave" the drywall down in order to make sure the backsplash was flush against the drywall along the entire wall (new kitchen sink area), about a 6-foot length. My question is: What is the best way to reduce or shave down that bulging area in order to attach the backsplash and make it flush all the way down the wall? Thanks very much for your time! Doug
 
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Old 12-26-07, 11:01 AM
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You want to use the backspash to determine the correct height to score the drywall, and carefully score a PERFECTLY straight line with a sharp utility knife. Once you have the line, you can score it again, cutting deep enough to cut through the paper. Then you can just use a wide chisel (1 1/2 works well) to chip off the drywall paper that is below the scored line. After the paper is removed, you can just use the chisel to scrape off gypsum until the hump is gone. After the countertop is installed, that back edge will probably need to be caulked to disguise the gap behind the majority of the countertop, and the hump that overlaps part of the countertop.

I'm amazed the countertop installers wouldn't do this. Perhaps they thought the hump indicated a poor job of taping, and that the taper needed to be called back to fix this.
 
  #3  
Old 12-26-07, 12:39 PM
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Thanks for the quick info...That solves most of the problem...I was the culprit who did the bad drywall job...The other problem is that the bulge is also located above the backsplash piece as well...I'm guessing I can shave or trim that down as well and maybe, using a drywall patch, smooth that out? Thanks again! Doug

Originally Posted by XSleeper View Post
You want to use the backspash to determine the correct height to score the drywall, and carefully score a PERFECTLY straight line with a sharp utility knife. Once you have the line, you can score it again, cutting deep enough to cut through the paper. Then you can just use a wide chisel (1 1/2 works well) to chip off the drywall paper that is below the scored line. After the paper is removed, you can just use the chisel to scrape off gypsum until the hump is gone. After the countertop is installed, that back edge will probably need to be caulked to disguise the gap behind the majority of the countertop, and the hump that overlaps part of the countertop.

I'm amazed the countertop installers wouldn't do this. Perhaps they thought the hump indicated a poor job of taping, and that the taper needed to be called back to fix this.
 
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Old 12-26-07, 03:03 PM
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What caused the bulge?
If it is from excessive mud on a tape joint, you can remove the mud/tape and refinish doing a tighter job of pulling your mud. It may also be possible to float the joint/bulge out further lessening it's affect.
 
  #5  
Old 12-27-07, 05:30 PM
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This is exactly why I never get a sub-contractor involved. This wall needed to be done right in the first place with the thought of this backsplash. Must think ahead. So some of the backsplash is glued on now?? The other 6 feet is not?? What a mess. I would re-due the entire 6 feet of drywall with a 14 inch knife and three coats of joint compound or Durabond. sanding inbetween coats, prime and two finish coat paint. Then after a few days dry time....install the backspash if it will now butt right.
 
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