sheet rock repair - thanks to plumbers


Old 04-24-08, 06:13 PM
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sheet rock repair - thanks to plumbers


I'm not complaining about the plumbers, they found the leak in an unusual spot. I now have a little over 200 inches of cuts to seal. Most of the cut out pieces of sheet rock will fit back in their spots. I have a 1/4 sheet to use with other spots.

I plan on having the sheetrock screwed to pieces of wood behind them to stabilize edges as cuts are between 2/4's. I currently only have about 4 inch blades to work the mud.

My longest cut is about 40 inches. Since I'm only working these cuts, do I really need a long blade to work the mud?

Should I angle sand the sheetrock edges down? Sanded edges to allow a little more space for the joints without having crowns on all my joints? The room has been gloss painted so I'm worried about joint bumps showing when it's painted back with gloss paint.

My thought is to work the joint - force mud back and forth so there's a "mushroom" inside to help hold the joints.

If there's anything I've not thought of please throw it my way!

I'm hoping the Lafarge Rapid Coat Low Dust is what I need. I don't have a lot to sand but I guess I should still get that. Wait, one gallon is the smallest? How much does that cost and how much will it cover?

Oops, just saw Lafarge Rapid Joint is suggested for mesh tape on joints. Hmmm, I don't remember what I was thinking of doing on the joints. I'll take suggestions!

Much thanks,
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Old 04-24-08, 06:26 PM
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Make sure you use the exact thickness of drywall if not using the original cut out. Wood around the drywall (old and new) is a great idea for smooth repair. You will need a 12 to 14 inch knife for the final coat. 4 for first. 9 for second and larger for the third. I would bevel off the fried portion of the cut drywall or sand it off. As long as there is wood mostly around the repairs tape and mudding will suffice. Paper tape is what I would use. But none of these repairs should be subject to building stress so mesh might work well. Depending on how fast you want to work.....I would use Durabond 90 set regular for the first coat and premix of your choice for the second and the third. Sounds like at least one gallon of premix. Home Depot has that low dust control bucket that I have heard good things about.

Good Luck
Old 04-25-08, 04:23 PM
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To further Rick's comments, supporting the blank pieces is a good idea, but rather than putting back the exact pieces, and to eliminate the need for any tape at all, cut the pieces on new sheetrock, and leave a 1 1/2" flap of the outer paper all the way around. Lay this in your hole and trace the border on the ceiling. Cut lightly into the first layer of paper and remove it so the flappy piece will fit flush. Apply mud to the edges of your blank where it meets the paper, and all around the border you cut. Then you can smooth it out and it won't crack. Using tape will require you to float the areas to the surrounding area, and it can take quite a while. Just another idea.
Old 01-15-09, 01:05 PM
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repairing sheetrock

Is there a type of caulking that can be used for repairing sheetrock if the cracks are not very big? What are the steps to repairing cracks if they are over 1/4 in.? Thank You.
Old 01-15-09, 04:47 PM
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It would be difficult to make an invisible repair with caulking. While caulk may do a good job of sealing the crack, you will always be able to tell where it is.
Old 01-16-09, 07:12 AM
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Robbie, welcome to the forums! I agree with Marksr on the visibilty of the caulking thing. It is best to use joint compound or spackling (preferred) to make such repairs. Undercut the crack(even the small ones) so the compound will have a place to go and hold. If any of your cracks eminate from upper door corners or window corners, you have a settling problem that needs to be addressed before making permanent repairs, or they will reappear.

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