I need Help!!!

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  #1  
Old 05-30-08, 02:35 PM
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I need Help!!!

Hello Everyone!
I am repairing a nasty mold problem that we had almost a year ago. All of the mold was removed, but now I am having a problem deciding what walls, or rather how much of the walls I should tear down. I ripped out the floorboards and found what looked like just the corrosion of the wall. The dry wall is just crumbling all over the place, but I cant tell how high it is, and to complicate things even more its again a brick wall on the other side so I cant just go smacking it down with a hammer to replace the whole thing. Or can I? I'm new to the whole home repair thing, but I have a basic understanding of whats going on. Any input on what I should do would be great. Thanks for your support.
-Mike
 
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  #2  
Old 05-30-08, 04:52 PM
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What is the cause of the mold and what room(s) is (are) it in?

Or are you in the 9th ward in New Orleans? or ???

You basically tear out interior sheetrock or plaster as need be, til you get to studs or firring.
 
  #3  
Old 05-30-08, 11:51 PM
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its ugly

It was in a small bathroom. The Drywall just looks like its really corroded at the base, but is there any real way to tell how far up it is? And since it is against brick, do I use the plaster? or do I use a regular sheet of drywall? Sorry for so many questions, but any advice is helpful! Thanks.
-Mike
 
  #4  
Old 05-31-08, 02:59 PM
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It's right against the brick without even any firring strips? How'd they run electrical? You sure?

I'd simply wreck/cut out the bad area from bottom up to where the outside of it appears good, and call it quits. Then splice some sheetrock in. Regular sheetrock should do. You need to find what caused the corrosion, as you call it, first. And stop that first.

Durobond setting type joiont compound (dry powder, in a ready mix concrete-like bag), sets like plaster/cement, is great for not only initial taping, if say you use mesh tape, as this compound is not only the prefered joint compound for this, but also is great for filling large voids, and joining where new meets old, as unlike ready mix that dries by air and is not good for deep fills, will cure chemically the way concrete does (It even finishes setting up under water).

I usually intentionally leave a gap between the two (new piece of wall and old wall) so that the Durobond fill gets locked in the joint. Durbond comes in different 'set times' and will say either 20, 45, 90, or 210 on the bag. I like 90 for general use. Mix to peanut butter to toothpaste- like consistency. You will get best results if you put dry powder in a 'mud pan', and do not use water through a faucet aerator, but use it straight faucet, utility tub or bathtub and use warm water, and fill the mud pan with water above the powder, and then jab in a 3 inch plastic putty knife and twist the knife through the powder water along the length, to let water get to the boptom and allow it to mix only SOME at this point, and then dump out excess water and then mix it good, to peanut butter or toothpaste-like consistency.

The warm water will aid in either the non-formation of lumps in the mix, or, the dissolving of the lumps quicker when mixing. But take note that the warm water will cause the Durobond to set faster on you, which can be a good or bad thing depending on what you want. Never mix a new patch of Durobond without first washing out the pan!, otherwise the old in the new batch will set up with gravelly chunks in it and cause gouge streaks as you trowel it on! (I have lots of experience with Durobond in all kinds of applications, from normal use, to substituting it for Rockhard, floor screw filling, mortisse lockset removal and door filling, etc.
 
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