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How can I patch that hole in the fake wall?

How can I patch that hole in the fake wall?

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  #1  
Old 07-25-08, 06:59 PM
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How can I patch that hole in the fake wall?

Two weeks ago, one hole (10cmX10cm or so) was made when I fisted the fake wall. To be frank, at that time I did not know it is one fake wall. Now I have to figure how to patch it up.

The wall is like made of two cardboards with similiar stuff like plaster stone in the middle. Dose any buddy has idea how to patch up the wall like that? Thanks.
 

Last edited by desprado; 07-25-08 at 07:01 PM. Reason: Help
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  #2  
Old 07-25-08, 07:50 PM
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Would that be like 4 x 4 inches?

I usually patch holes through walls, if they truly go right through, by one of several different methods, depending where in the wall, and what wall is used for.

[For the quicky methods listed below, you can go ahead and leave the hole irregular- shape as it is. But for the more conventional repair listed at the end, you want to true up the hole to say square or rectangular shape.]

If the hole is not bashed all the way through, but is caved in, I'll often cheat and just Durobond (like a plaster,that is a powder you mix with water to like a peanut butter consistency) mud fill it all in.

My other famous quicky method is to take a bashed in hole, where you can see into the wall, and I'll stuff the hole with some insulation I stole (borrowed) from the basement sill block areas (I pay it back later), and stuff the insulation so that it is back about 1/2 inch. Then Durobond over that. You do not want to get greedy and fill the entire hole to complete flush on first coat because it may sag under it's weight. Instead fill with say 3 lesser coats til filled up, over time. Every couple hours you should be able to add more as this Durobond sets quick.

Do yo know that a vcouple months ago i filled abotu a 2 inch roudn hole through aCEILING (where gravity is agaisnt you) by ONLY Durobonding? Want to know how? I simply added Durobond with my fingers looping it up over the edges inside and allowing only SOME to appear. I did this repeatedly over tiome so i kept filling it in, in some method of a honey bee working on it'

My other famous quicky method is to put some insulation in there tight, below the hole. Then I spray in that spray foam insulation in a can. Then after it dries the next day, I carve it off with long knife and intentionally gouge it say 1/8th inch below the wall surface. Then just skim 'spackle' over it.

The other more normal way is to cut a piece of wood, about 4-6 inches longer than the length of the hole. Then drill a hole in the middle of it and run a 1 5/8 or 2 inch screw into it just enough that it holds, and you latch onto the screw head with a vice-griips. Then you slip this backerboard through the hole in the wall and center the screw, and while you hold it there, you drill your corners through the existing wall board so it goes into your backerboard you made, and then run in screws that are no longer than what you need (you don't want too long screws going into say electrical wires),so that the flathead screws countersink some. Then you can leave go of the vice grips and back out your center, temporary hold-onto screw. Then cut a filler piece of sheetrock and screw it over the backer, and/or Durobond fill. Tape and mud around it, to prevent future hairline cracking. Then try to duplicate any texture.

...........

I forgot this other clever method: If you have hardware cloth - first use a sheetrock hand saw to cut the hole in the wall like a pumpkinlid, by bevel cutting so the hole is largest out by you, and smallest in the wall. Now cut a piece of hardware cloth that is larger than the hole. Then loop a piece of wire though the middle so the two ends are facing you. Then, as you hold the two 'strings' of wire, you feed the screen back behind the wall, and then get it to lay flat, and while you hold the wires, you lay a pencil across the middle of the hole, between the 2 strands of wire, and twist the wire around the pencil and draw it tight so the pencil is tight against the wall, sucking the hardware cloth tight to the rear. Then you fill what you can around the pencil with a Durobond batch you make up, getting it to squirt through the hardwre cloth screening that acts as lath. Then after it sets up a few hours later (or next day if you care to wait, you can undo the pencil and snip the exposed wire. Then finish filling in where the pencil was. You can also tape and mud if you want to eliminate even any tiny hairling crack at border.This method sounds quite convuluted, but after you have done this, and have it all in your mind, it goes faster than you think on other holes you do in the future. I had to add this method as part of the repetoir of ways. Oh. Why the pumpkinlid cut? Well, when the Durobond dries, the Durobond cannot be pushed back into the wall, and the screen keeps it from falling toward you. It is locked.
 

Last edited by ecman51; 07-25-08 at 08:27 PM. Reason: added large last paragraph
  #3  
Old 07-26-08, 05:17 AM
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Thank you for the so many ways provided.

I guess the way by using Durobond maybe is suitable for my hole. The broken part is still connected with the wall and just into two half parts hanging there.

I think maybe first I can try to glue the two parts back to the original form, then use Durobond to fill up the left.

Can my idea work?

Which glue I should use for the sort of surface?
 
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Old 07-26-08, 06:25 AM
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Durabond can be used to hold the pieces back together - somewhat. Durabond is very hard to sand so be sure to apply the final coats neatly! It comes in different drying times - the 3 most common are 90 minute, 45 min and 20 minute. The lower the # the quicker it sets up = less time to work with it. Be sure to throw out any unused mixed portion as it will dry rock hard.

btw - welcome to the forums!
 
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Old 07-26-08, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by desprado View Post
I think maybe first I can try to glue the two parts back to the original form, then use Durobond to fill up the left.
Just leave it caved in. What you could do is first to not apply too much pressure, from forcing the mud in with a putty knife . Instead, first smear it on the halves with your finger, to get the bond that way first. Then apply more, even right away if you want, without really pushing hard with the putty knife. Then rather than have this gob of mud sticking out where you try to trowel it off flat, which may cause the halves to cave in further - instead, you use the edge of the broadknife to 'push-cut' the bulged mud off. What this will do is actually shear off the glob, without any inward pressure. Usually this causes the Durobond to be a little recessed. But that is okay. After it dries that way, simply recoat it. You could recoat over it with ready mix mud instead if you want. You can buy that in 1 gallon pails (instead of the 5 gallon size) if you prefer.

If ever you mud in busted out corners, for example, it works best to use that 'shear off' method (I mentioned above) on the one side. If you don't, and you trowel it on one side, and then the other, you continously keep shoving a bulge of mud to the other side.

Doing mud repairs is one of my favorite things.
 
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