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Joining in to a area that is feathered lower...

Joining in to a area that is feathered lower...

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  #1  
Old 04-20-09, 09:26 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Neenah, WI
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Joining in to a area that is feathered lower...

Originally Posted by tightcoat View Post
Now we haven't dealt with this but you can do parts of jobs in a batch then make a joining with the finished work. If you think you want to do this let me know and I can tell you how to do it. It takes a lot of words to describe it but it isn't that complicated to do. If there is the capability to search my posts here you can find where I have described how to do a patch and have it come out exactly even with the surronding existing work. You do a joining the same way.
HI;

I'm not sure if what your speak above of in terms of joining really applies to what I need to do here or not, but this is my situation.

I've been working the base coat a bit more to make sure my walls are really true and flat, epically where the counters are back splash will be, I've got the counter top areas really true and flat. I've got just a couple areas of base coat that just aren't quite right yet.

I have 1 wall where at counter top level, the wall is really nice and true, it is already fairly thick, so I don't want to add to it. However, what happened is at about 42" of the floor & up, it tappers off a bit thiner, so it isn't as deep. At the 42" there is no defined stop point, it is just tapered. There are no cabinets up on this wall, so I don't care that it is perfect to the area below, but it is noticable if you look at it that it dips / tapers.

Is there any way to fill in the upper part of the wall some more without going over the lower portion of the wall again? Every time I've tried working into an area like this, the 2 areas don't really seem to joint up properly unless I do everything while it is wet.

I just haven't been able to manage to get everything on this wall all to be flush while the plaster is open. At least I have the lower counter top / cabinet area very flush, which of course if important for the cabinet install.

I have just a couple areas that are in similar situations as described above, once I figure out how to take care of those areas with base, them I will be ready to apply the Keenes finish coat.

Thanks very much, This has been a very interesting learning experience, you have been extremely helpful, Thank you again,

Jamie

p.s.My Keenes test board came out really nice and smooth, and dried hard.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-20-09, 04:33 PM
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Location: California
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How thick is the plaster?

I was describing something else in the earlier post.
What you can do is wet down the area where the new plaster will lap over the existing. Wet it down just before you spread the plaster on that part. This will keep the existing plaster from taking the water out of the mix and will leave it softer longer while you screed off of what is already there with a lot of pressure on the lower part and less pressure on the upper part so you don't dig it out.

Then take the edge of the trowel and scrape a little more off the lower part. It will not turn out perfectly flat but should be close enough to finish.
 
  #3  
Old 04-21-09, 10:11 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Neenah, WI
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Originally Posted by tightcoat View Post
How thick is the plaster?

I was describing something else in the earlier post.
What you can do is wet down the area where the new plaster will lap over the existing. Wet it down just before you spread the plaster on that part. This will keep the existing plaster from taking the water out of the mix and will leave it softer longer while you screed off of what is already there with a lot of pressure on the lower part and less pressure on the upper part so you don't dig it out.

Then take the edge of the trowel and scrape a little more off the lower part. It will not turn out perfectly flat but should be close enough to finish.
HI;

Thanks for your response. The total thickness of the plaster on this wall is 1/2" or more, it was thick to match up with existing plaster depth, but that old plaster was skim coated and it all became even thicker to compensate.

The difference between the area I want to leave alone and the area I want to feather into is about 1/4" of additional depth that is needed to be added.

I will wet it down and try it as you directed shortly.
Thank You
Jamie
 
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