Textured Ceilings


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Old 05-09-09, 11:51 AM
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Question Textured Ceilings

Wow this is a great site. Wealth of information and Thanks

I just bought a house with a move in date of June 15th. The house has ugly popcorn ceiling that I would like to remove.

Sounds like an easy (but messy) process, but I need to check for Asbestos since the house was built in 1978.

I looked at some Youtube stuff and just have a couple of questions.

I have done some minor drywall work when I gutted my bathroom. Green Board, Backer Board in the shower.

I was wondering how difficult is it to texture the ceiling.

I like the look of Knockdown but could live with Orange Peel.

What is the difference between the Hopper Gun and a Texture Sprayer. I see home depot rents the texture sprayer.

And if I read correctly you need to prime the drywall before you put the texture on.

Also would / should I also do the walls so they match the ceiling?

Ideally I would start with a small room to get the hang of it.

Any website articles you could recommend would also be great.

thanks
 
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Old 05-09-09, 02:42 PM
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Welcome to the forums!

I'm not sure what HD is calling a texture sprayer. The most common method of spraying texture utilizes a hopper gun powered by an air compressor. There are some big units, generally truck mounted that have a tank for texture and pump the texture thru a line/nozzle that you drag around the job - I've never seen one of these for rent, only owned/operated by big drywall contractors.

IMO there isn't any need to prime before texture. Primer will allow the texture to dry at a more even rate but once dry, it will look the same. Texture should be primed prior to painting. Priming prior to texture does not take the place of priming the texture.

The ceiling texture and wall texture doesn't have to be the same - that's your choice

Texturing a ceiling is a little harder than a wall but isn't all that difficult - no more so than painting a ceiling compared to painting a wall.

After you remove the popcorn, expect to do some drywall repair - both from popcorn removal and the lesser quality of drywall finish [popcorn hides a lot so the ceiling wasn't finished as well] As with anything, practice makes perfect
 
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Old 05-09-09, 04:56 PM
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thanks Mark.

The think I was talking about was this. Graco Magnum TeXFinish TX 65 Texture Sprayer . Maybe this is a different kind of hopper?

Do you need to prime on top of the texture and then paint, or do you leave it unpainted
 
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Old 05-10-09, 03:53 AM
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It is always best to prime and paint texture! If you prime first and then texture there is no visual need to prime/paint the texture but since the texture is water soluable, it has no protection from humidity and isn't washable.

I wasn't aware that graco made a texture gun. Basically it's the same as a regular type hopper but instead of you carrying the hopper attached to the gun, the hopper sets on the floor and you just carry the gun and hose. It's similiar to the big truck mounted unit but on a small scale. I'm not sure how profitable it would be to own one but it might make sense to rent one - you'll still need an air compressor to power it.
 
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Old 05-11-09, 05:29 AM
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One major step is after you remove the popcorn and do your repairs, vacuum the ceiling then you must mop it down. It has to be completely dust free before you spray your texture. That is why, i'm sure, that it is suggested to prime prior to spraying. but I wouldn't prime because it will take all day to dry and wont look as good.

Take it from experiance, you dont want your texture to fall off when your rolling on your paint.
 
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Old 05-12-09, 11:04 AM
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Welcome, Short Bus. You will be investing time and money on texturing, so do some homework first.

Prime before texture equalizes both porosity and surface texture differences. It provides a base that equalizes the absorbsion rate variations between the drywall face paper and the finished joint compound when painted, delivering a uniform finish coat. This ensures that no areas of texture will fail prematurely.

When texture comes off in sheets, it is because of dust under or no primer.

When doing knockdown un-primed, the texture dries at different speeds, creating a different texture as you drag a blade over it. You will see the difference.
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The U.S. Gypsum Ass. (a member probably made your wallboard and mud you are using) requires you to prime before texturing with a water based product. (A.2.3)

Their warranty against ceiling sag requires a prime before texture (A.2.4)

(A.4.3) prime before painting final

(A.4.3.1) prime prior to texturing, again

If your ceiling texture (whichever style) fails, and you didn't prime before texturing, you lost your manufacture's warranty.

http://www.gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-07.pdf Be safe, G
 
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Old 05-14-09, 06:18 PM
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Thanks for the insight GBR. Makes sence and the extra prep sounds well worth it since i plan on living in the house for a long time. God willing
 
 

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