Interior Wall Corners Not Taped

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Old 12-29-09, 06:01 PM
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Question Interior Wall Corners Not Taped

We bought this house about 4-5 years ago and during the first year, we noticed hairline cracks along the outside interior corners that pretty much go all the way down the wall. They are about 2" away and on each side of the corner, about where the metal corner bead ends. We had the builder come out and to repair this and they put a few nails in the corners, mudded, retextured, and painted but, now they are cracking again. On one of the corners, some of the drywall actually fell off and I can see the metal corner bead. I noticed that there was no tape used. Should these be taped?? Also, I repaired a few inside corners that had cracked all the way down from ceiling to floor, right in the corner. These have cracked again. I want to start repairing these corners but, don't want to have the same problem in the future. Do I need to scrape off the old drywall, tape, bed, texture and paint? If so, that is A LOT of corners to have to re-do. Please advise.
 
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Old 12-29-09, 06:29 PM
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Many cases the outside corners with corner bead do not get tape. The people I have learned my taping skills from and I like to put some fiberglass mesh tape along the corner bead edge to prevent the thing you are experiencing.

With the inside corners cracking as well it sounds like your house is moving around quite a bit. To fix the inside corners maybe try some paintable caulk and repaint. Outside corners try to remove any loose mud ( or use a hammer and lightly break the mud out but not damage the bead.) and redo it. You could also try to add some mesh tape and remud it but that might be opening a can of worms. Especially with your walls textured.
 
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Old 12-30-09, 05:06 AM
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Welcome to the forums Judy!

I don't remember ever taping the corner bead but I'm a painter not a drywall finisher so I don't do drywall work all that often

I've never had problems with corner bead that is nailed in place but have seen a lot of issues with corner bead that is just crimped on. If the corner bead fell off - it probably didn't have any nails. If the corner bead is secure and remudded, there shouldn't be any problems.

Were the inside corners taped? How wide were the cracks you repaired originally? If the cracks are minor, I agree with using caulking.

If you let us know what type of texture you have we can tell you how to duplicate it.

http://forum.doityourself.com/electr...your-post.html
 
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Old 12-31-09, 07:00 AM
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Corner Bead not Nailed

Thank you very much for the replies.

Upon inspection, I am seeing that the corner beads are not nailed. (At least where the mud is coming off) And no, they are not taped. So, if I put some nails and re-mud, that should fix it?

The texture is not heavy. It looks like they sprayed it on and smoothed it out. I don't know enough about texture to give you the type or name for it.

The cracks that I did fix were hairline cracks on some inside corners but they are cracking again.

Thank you for your help.
 
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Old 12-31-09, 12:32 PM
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Securing the corner bead with nails and then covering the sides with j/c should work well.

The hairline cracks should be fine to fix with caulking.

Many textures are sprayed but often you can do a decent job of replicating them by using thinned down joint compound and a sponge. The 2 most common wall textures are orange peel and knock down. Knock own texture is where a splatter coat of texture is applied and then a wide knife is used to knock down the splatters giving a flatter texture.
 
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Old 01-01-10, 06:36 AM
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Knock Down Texture

Thank you for you help on this.

I am pretty sure that we have knock down texture. I saw them when they were doing it and they did spray it on and smooth it out with a large blade.

Now, if I chip off any loose mud prior to fixing, that is going to be a LOT to fix. But, I do want it done right. So, anywhere that I see a crack, I should tap on it and see if it's loose? Then put some nails in the corner bead and mud over it, and try and re-texture once the mud dries? Will the sponge method work for knock down texture? Just dab it on and use a blade to smooth it out?
 
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Old 01-01-10, 08:28 AM
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Knock down is harder to duplicate without spraying it on. You can try dabbing it on with a sponge. Some will take a stiff brush and 'flick' the mud on before knocking it down. the size of the knockdown is determined both by the consistency of the j/c and how long the mud sets before you knock it down.

The good thing about texturing with j/c is if you don't like how it turns out, you can wipe it off while wet or sand it off when dry and try again. You could also practice on piece of cardboard first.
 
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Old 01-01-10, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by judyg55 View Post
Now, if I chip off any loose mud prior to fixing, that is going to be a LOT to fix. But, I do want it done right. So, anywhere that I see a crack, I should tap on it and see if it's loose? Then put some nails in the corner bead and mud over it, and try and re-texture once the mud dries? Will the sponge method work for knock down texture? Just dab it on and use a blade to smooth it out?
If it is loose you should be able to more or less tap on it with your hand and it will sound hollow.

Sounds like you pretty much have the idea how to do it. It might be challenging to get the hang of it but just do the best you can. Texture can be forgiving. When you come to the texturing, maybe get a piece of drywall and play around to get the hang of it.

On a side note, the corner bead was likely put on with a clincher. It is a tool that puts the bead on and bends the steel to grab onto the dry wall. That is why you don't see any nails.
 
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Old 01-03-10, 07:46 AM
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Thank You!

Thank you all very much for your help!!

I am going to give it go. I can't mess it up any worse than it is now!!
 
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