Drywall to wood repair

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  #1  
Old 01-17-10, 09:44 AM
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Drywall to wood repair

Ok, I have a job where I need to repair the finishing work around 20-30 windows and doors. There is no casing, the window well or jamb is wood, the drywall making the wall buts right into this jamb so that the 3/4" or so edge of this wood jamb is flush with the wall. This joint was then covered with mesh tape and finished with joint compound to create a clean edge and make the transition unnoticeable once all painted the same color.

This obviously didn't work very well (not my work thankfully). What's happening is not that there is a crack between the drywall and the wood, but that the joint compound is separating from the wood right at the corner between the wall and the jamb. This looks like a small crack running around the edge of the jamb of most of the windows and doors.

There is not enough time, money, or motivation to rebuild everything. Wondering if anyone had a minimally invasive solution to this problem. I have considered caulk or some kind of paintable silicone but I am not fond of this and unsure of how well it will work or appear. I have also been considering injecting some kind of glue or epoxy into the crack and pressing it back together.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 01-17-10, 10:22 AM
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What about moulding?
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Old 01-17-10, 10:33 AM
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Unfortunately casing is not an option. This is a rather large house and guest house with a specific, sort of industrial design from an architect. Neither the owner or the architect would go for casing (it would change the whole look of the place) The owner went with the lowest bidder when initially doing this house and it is now rife with problems that are difficult to repair because of the need to maintain this unique design. He is now repairing it to put on the market.
 
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Old 01-17-10, 10:37 AM
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Just to clarify my last post. I do mean any sort of moulding when I say casing. Unfortunately even a small strip of wood painted the same color wouldn't work.
 
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Old 01-17-10, 11:08 AM
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You didn't say that there was an architect involved, in your first post. Guess who's job it is to provide a solution. Hint: It's not yours.
 
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Old 01-17-10, 11:14 AM
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Well, I'm assuming that it wasn't a problem with his design so much as a poor craftsman doing the work The architect is hiring us to take on his problems. Probably shouldn't have taken the job but the money was really good
 
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Old 01-17-10, 11:31 AM
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No matter where you put the blame, it all falls on the architect. As much as they dislike it, I would press him for a suggestion. The most I would do is attempt to correct one window. Let him look at it & get his blessing.

Since you can't cover it, the most you can do is try a different tape & a different compound. I like durabond 45 (setting compound). Some other things to consider might be wood filler & corner beads.
 
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Old 01-17-10, 12:12 PM
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Ya, I can't imagine any fix other than covering with casing being a permanent fix. IMO taping drywall to wood isn't a good idea!

You could cut out the loose tape and redo but I'd expect the problem to return
 
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Old 01-17-10, 12:15 PM
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Thanks for the advice. If nothing else works I'm going to use corner bead. Trying to avoid that because that will most likely involve repainting entire walls (and some are monstrous in size with many windows) and the job won't get done as quickly as the owner needs it to.

I am wondering if anyone is aware of any type of adhesive that might be effective in this scenario.
 
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Old 01-17-10, 12:24 PM
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Ya, I don't want to be taping drywall to wood either. They expand differently and the result is usually bad. The big problem here is that the fix needs to be relatively fast. I'd love to be able to just redo it correctly, instead I'm trying to find the quick solution with the best possible quality. I really don't like the idea of just filling it with caulk but there may be no acceptable quick solution. If it comes down to quality or speed, the man with the money is going to choose speed just to get the house sold.
 
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Old 01-17-10, 02:55 PM
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I have only seen this done once, and am not sure how durable it is... but depending on how the jamb meets the drywall, that may be an issue. I once installed a TV box flush with a wall- no casing- and it was flat taped to the drywall. The architect said to leave a bevelled edge on the face of the jamb, and to make a 1/4" rabbet on the outer edge to create a "notch" for the joint compound (durabond) to bond to. The perimeter of the box itself was glued to the rough opening with construction adhesive to prevent any movement between the box and the framing. (The movement is probably what is causing the crack in your case.)

So evidentally the drywall finisher prefilled the perimeter of the box, filling in the rabbet with mud... then taped and finished it. The bevel on the jamb permitted the tape and joint compound to feather down to nothing at the inside perimeter of the box. Like I said, I dunno how it worked out.
 
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