repairing of first-timer mistakes

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-02-10, 12:25 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3
Question repairing of first-timer mistakes

we recently finished our basement, and unfortunately, as first time mudders, did not do a very good job mudding. Our choice of Semi-gloss paint makes the issues extra-obvious. We are going to change the finish on the paint, but were also wondering if we could re-mudd the seams over the paint and try again? Anyone have experience with this? I have seen suggestions for patches over paint, but I think I'm going to have to re-do ALL the seams...Should I re-tape? I have pics, but am not sure how to post them, as I don't have a url for them.
 

Last edited by squealy21; 03-02-10 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Add pics
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 03-02-10, 12:51 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 20,977
I hate drywall/sheetrock...mainly cause I don't do it enough to be any good...lol

No advise..but give it time....

As to pics..have you read this? http://forum.doityourself.com/electr...your-post.html
 
  #3  
Old 03-02-10, 01:53 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,809
You can apply mud over tape although it would be a good idea to scuff up the painted areas you intend to mud with 80-100 grit sandpaper.

If the tape was applied decently and lays fairly flat you can probably leave it on. If the tape has bubbles under it or is higher [sticks out] than wall - those areas may need to be redone.

Latex paint [especially enamel] doesn't sand very well but if you can fill in the low spots and spread the joints out over a wider area - that should work well

Don't forget to reprime the areas with new mud.
 
  #4  
Old 03-02-10, 03:38 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3
Thx Marksr, I'm a little confused on your answer, if we're going to mud, we don't have to sand? I think the tape is fine. Actually, we found that to be the easiest part. We just didn't mud enough, especially where two of the tape sides of the drywall came together. I thought hubby was nuts when he said, "Just glob it on, it shrinks" Turns out he was right. The other area that is a little problematic is the corner beading. Can see the nail holes under the mud and paint.
 
  #5  
Old 03-03-10, 04:11 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,809
Joint compound sand easy but paint is harder to sand. Often it is preferable to apply j/c over the paint and then sand that thin layer of j/c. It might bring that part of the wall out further but if you float the j/c out over a wider area - most times it won't be noticeable.

It sounds like another coat or two of j/c will fix the problems. The neater you apply the j/c, the less you have to sand but you won't get completely away from sanding

sorry for the confusion
 
  #6  
Old 03-03-10, 04:47 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 509
Did you use a wide enough joint knife? Be sure you are using a 12" knife and be sure that the blade is facing the right direction. Usually the right direction is so that you don't see the name of the company on the handle. If unsure look down the edge of the blade and you will see a slight curve. The concave side should be facing the drywall. Don't keep going over the wet compound it will only make it worse. Be sure that the edges do not stick up if they do you will be in for a lot of sanding. Use a sanding pole and medium grit paper to knock it down.
 
  #7  
Old 03-06-10, 08:00 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3
Thank you so much for the advice. We, did not, in fact, use a 12 inch knife on the joints...We will this time. I'll post when the fixes are done, and let you know how it goes...
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes