Filling Gap between a wall and ceiling

Old 01-08-01, 05:47 AM
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I just put in a new ceiling (drywall). The existing walls (plaster and lath) do not quite reach up to the ceiling and in some cases there is a gap of almost an inch between the bottom of the ceiling and the top of the wall. Also, there is nothing behind this gap, it is the gap between the top of the wall and the bottom of the 2nd floor room. I am going to tape and joint compound this seam, but I want to span this void between the wall and ceiling so there is something to support the tape.

What is the best product to fill gaps of over 1/2" without shrinkage?

Old 01-11-01, 03:03 AM
some help
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Hot mud..You can get 20, 45, 90 Min. Mud it come dry in 25 lb. bags only mix what you can use..add a little at a time and do not play with it lay it in make sure it does not stick into the rom let dry hard and do it again until the hole is filled this does not have to be pretty at this point. When it drys use topping mud to dress it up, hot mud does not sand well so you do not want any high spots and if you have to sand it it will knock it loose..
Old 01-11-01, 05:52 AM
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Cool No backing is bad.

Hi epacker,

It sounds like this crack has no backing, just a empty wall gap without a back surface to "contain" or "bond" the filler material.

I've been looking for that filler product all of my life, ha ha, lol! Let me know if you find it.

Meanwhile, I have used 'quick fill, fast setting' wall compounds for unusual applications, and I can't be sure, but I suspect that is what SomeHelp is referring to. That suggestion is as good as any. Of course, without a backing to contain it, a heck of alot will simple fall behind the wall while you learn to pack it in. And what does not fall into the wall will not have a good solid grip to the wall.

Your actual solution will depend on the quality and expense of the job. My first thought was that eventually, any free standing filler material will fail and your room will have a crack all around the ceiling next year. That may or may not be ok with you.

I was thinking of crown molding for a better looking, long lasting finish. But crown molding is best left to a pro because it requires special angle cope cuts, etc.

To use a filler material, regardless of what you end up buying, I would design a backing system first. Perhaps a simple slat tacked to the wall studs, lengthwise across the wall. It won't matter how thick or sloppy the slat is, because the filler product will finish the job, regardless of the depth.

The key to a long lasting repair is to provide a structrual backing to the opening.

Good luck,

Old 01-19-01, 07:14 PM
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What you have gone and done is to remove the thickness of your plaster and portland cement and wood lath, more then likely they were about 3/4" in thickness, What you need to do is get some 1/2" drywall and cut it into rips of 1"x4', use a utilty knife to trim as needed, after you have them in place mix up a pan of 90 Durabond self setting joint compound, you want to use the stuff in the brown bags,make your mix kind of thick like home made ice cream, fill in the remainer of the gap with the mud lay your 6" taping knife against the wall and ride the tip of the knife on the ceiling, you'll get a nice corner this way, let the durabond dry, shave off any high spots, now you can mix up another pan and make it a little creamy, like soft serve ice cream, lay a bed coat down, then your paper tape this will make your corner to wall to ceiling, after taping coat two more times with duabond pulling it tight with each coat, then you can finish off with topping compound, sand out to a smooth finish, prime and paint,
Good Luck

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