Tape and spackal


  #1  
Old 05-18-13, 07:53 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 174
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Tape and spackal

Hey guys. So I have spackled small stuff before but I just finished sheet rocking my whole basement.

Is it better to use the self adhesive tape for a neeb like myself or the one that you lay the mud then tape then mud? Especially when there are some small gaps?

Since its the whole room do I tape then use the small knife around the whole room then go back to the starting put with the bigger blade and so on till I finish with the 12" blade? Or do I do the one section at a time?

Screw holes just need to be covered w a 6" knife right?

This ones kinds stupid but corner bead doesn't need to be taped?

Lastly how do I cut durrock? I know there is a special tool that I have used before but I can't find it?? I know I can rip it on a jig saw and that's good for the holes around fixtures but makes a mess and having to walk in and out w each board from out back will take forever?

As always thanks!! This is the best site!!
 
  #2  
Old 05-18-13, 08:09 AM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 14,329
Received 877 Upvotes on 740 Posts
I would avoid using the self stick mesh tape. Paper tape is stronger. If you can rent/borrow a taping banjo that will make the job go faster/easier.

I normally only use two knifes, 6" and 12". I lay the tape with the 6", and then to the other two coats with the 12". All I do is vary the amount of mud I put on the knife/wall between 2nd and 3rd coat.

6" knife should be fine for the screws.

Corner bead does not need to be taped, but I like to strengthen the corner bead. I run some mesh down the edge where the metal meets the drywall, about 1/2" away from the corner. This just helps make for a stronger corner if it ever gets hit. I have seen guys demo a corner with mesh done like that and it is tough!

They make a carbide scoring tool to score durrock. You have to score both sides and it "should" snap similar to drywall. I have not had much luck with that and have just cut it with a saw. Lately I have been using DensShield for 1/2" backer. It cuts like drywall.
 
  #3  
Old 05-18-13, 09:02 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 174
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks much for the advise and the help. I have no clue where to rent a banjo but that thing looks awesome. It's not that much that really needs to be done its pretty much just 4ft around the room where I replace paneling with the SR

Ill deff take your advise about not using self adhesive tape.
So just to be clear I lay the mud down into the seem(does the crack need to be completely filled?) then place the tape over the mud then, mud over that with the 6" knife. Then right away use the 12" knife. So basically do one section at a time?

Guess ill just walk in and and use the circular saw to cut the durock would take your advise using the other material but I already bought this stuff

Thanks again
 
  #4  
Old 05-18-13, 09:39 AM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 14,329
Received 877 Upvotes on 740 Posts
Lay the mud down so that you will not get any air pockets behind the tape otherwise it will bubble when you put the next coats on. If you have any wide gaps in the sheet rock (larger than 1/8") you might want to prefill with mud, or setting compound. Setting compound comes in a white bag and you have to mix it. I suggest getting 45 min.

Put the mud down on the seam. Lay the tape into the mud. Then imbed the tape smooth into the mud with the 6" knife. Tape all the seams first. Then, if you still have time, you can put a 2nd coat over the tape coat with the 12" knife.

I thin my taping mud down to about custard consistency, but some people will find that too thin. Do what works for you. 2nd and 3rd coats are about mashed potatoes consistency.
 
  #5  
Old 05-18-13, 11:37 AM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 27,061
Received 1,910 Upvotes on 1,716 Posts
I was going to mention something about thinning the mud, but I see Tolyn mentioned that at the end of his last post. Thinning the mud that you use for taping is a must, as it helps you set the tape. Thick mud won't squeeze down flat as easy. Mix up just the amount that you need for taping, because you might need to throw it away when you're done. Add a little water (I love custard!) make it creamy like thick pudding and you'll find that when you run the knife over the tape to set it, that the mud will squeeze out nice and easy and your tape will be perfectly flat with no voids. As Tolyn mentioned, a void behind the paper tape will show up on the next coat as a bubble, so it's imperative that you smear enough mud on the wall so that when you set the tape into it, there are no (or very few) voids. Squeezing the thinned mud out as you set the tape will fill any minor voids and will ensure your tape is set. Have a drywall pan in your hand as you do this so that as you set the tape you can wipe off the excess thinned mud that squeezes out from behind the tape, putting it into the pan.

Paper tape is so easy to apply, I think DIY'ers are just taken in by something that they think seems "easier".
 
  #6  
Old 05-18-13, 12:09 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,659
Received 835 Upvotes on 732 Posts
I would just add that you need to make sure the tape coat is good and dry before you apply the next coat of mud. If the 1st coat isn't good and dry, the weight of the 2nd can pull the tape loose
 
  #7  
Old 05-18-13, 12:17 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 174
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thank you for all the tips and the help.

This guy that was helping me with a truck to pick up the sheet rock insisted I get the pre mixed mud.... Is this no good as I can't adjust the texture of it?

Yeah the largest void that would need to be taped is no larger then 1/8"

And Ill tape everything then go back and apply the second and third coats?
Going to try and tackle this part tomorrow after I set the bathroom floor tiles
 
  #8  
Old 05-18-13, 01:26 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,659
Received 835 Upvotes on 732 Posts
Pre mixed j/c is fine. Mixing it will thin it slightly but you can add water as needed. Just remember you can always add more water if needed but it ain't so easy to take water back out.
 
  #9  
Old 05-18-13, 08:00 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 27,061
Received 1,910 Upvotes on 1,716 Posts
Just scoop out some of the premixed mud, put it in a drywall pan, add a 1/4 cup of water and mix it up. Its not an exact science. Use that for your taping, when done, either discard it or if it's clean and it's not much, it won't hurt to blend it back in with the rest. Your premixed mud (bucket or box) should be the proper consistency for all the other coats, but it doesn't hurt to mix it a little with a drill and paddle.
 
  #10  
Old 05-19-13, 04:32 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,659
Received 835 Upvotes on 732 Posts
I like to thin all the j/c as it makes is 'slide' better and I feel like I can get a nicer job with less sanding that way. For repairs, I normally mix up the j/c in a mud pan as needed. If I've got a lot of mud work to do, I'll mix the entire bucket with a drill/paddle. Just mixing the mud will loosen it up some without adding any water. I've never measured the water but add/mix until it looks right. Just be sure to not add TOO much water. Once the mud is too thin, it is only good for texture.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: