Found these small holes in the drywall above drop ceiling. How would you go about patching these or similar holes? FWIW, the drywall has "Kaiser Typ X" stamped on it in red.
Thanks!

 

In the top picture.... cut the hole even(red border). Then cut a piece of sheetrock roughly 2" taller and 2" wider than the hole (green border). Remove 1" of plaster all around the replacement piece but leave the paper. The remaining plaster on the replacement piece will go into wall and the paper will be used for the joint.

In the second picture you can use two pieces of any kind of scrap wood. 1x2"s are perfect. Fasten the two pieces in the wall behind the sheetrock with four screws. Now cut a replacement piece and screw it to the two pieces of wood.

 

Thanks PJ,
That's very helpful! I appreciate you taking the time to reply and edit the pics like that! In the top picture...What would you use to cut the hole even? No need to screw in scrap wood behind the drywall??

In the second picture...Not sure that I can fit any scrap wood behind the drywall because of the plumbing pipes.

BTW, which tape & joint compound to finish?

 

A jab or drywall saw works best for cutting installed drywall, a utility knife is best for cutting the patch pieces. You don't have to have a lot of lumber behind the drywall, mainly just enough to hold the patch in place until the mud dries. You should use the green lid, all purpose j/c for taping. It can also be used for the finish coats .... or you could use a setting compound like Durabond but they aren't all that novice friendly.

 

Thanks!
Above and beyond the patching jobs, I have apprx. 500 sq ft of interior walls plus 750 sg ft of ceiling to drywall. That said, how do I figure how much "green lid, all purpose j/c for taping" and tape I'll need?

FWIW, I see HD currently has a green lid on "Special Buy"; The Sheetrock Brand 5-gal. All Purpose Pre-Mixed Joint Compound @ $13.47 / each.

 

I can't answer that I mostly do repairs. Hopefully one of the others can advise you on that.

While the all purpose mud is best for taping and texturing, many prefer the lightweight j/c for the subsequent coats of mud. I haven't bought mud in several yrs, it used to be cheaper than that

 

Always use a mixer and a drill (hole hawg if you have it) to mix the mud. Add 1/2 cup of water to a 5 gallon bucket and mix thoroughly. It will flow much better and you will have less arm fatigue at the end of the day. Yeah, Mark, mud has gone up a lot in the past years.

 

Thanks!
No hole hawg, but I have this all-purpose mixer and corded drill.

 

Mixer is fine, but hopefully that hanging hole thingy will come off so you can mount it in the drill.

 

Hopefully you have a stout drill. I worked for a guy once that insisted I mix mud with an old cheap drill. I told him I didn't think it was stout enough but he insisted it was, fortunately he was right there when I tried to use it as it went up in smoke. If you see your drill isn't up to the task, stop before you burn it up.