Repair Gap Between Wall and Ceiling

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  #1  
Old 09-22-14, 08:08 AM
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Repair Gap Between Wall and Ceiling

In my bathroom, there is a large gap between the walls and the ceiling. I think the seam is like 1/2" to 3/4". The sheetrock installer cut the board to small, and never spackle or taped the seam.

I was thinking to just force some joint compound up in the gap, let it dry, and then tape the seam and finish the last 2 coats?

Another alternative is using a metal corner bead.

Any suggestions?
 
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  #2  
Old 09-22-14, 08:09 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

Have you paid the installer? My first thought is make them come back out and get this right.
 
  #3  
Old 09-22-14, 08:11 AM
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That's a pretty wide gap to fill but it could be done [multiple applications of mud] Another option would be to install crown molding.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 08:11 AM
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I just purchased the house last week. I am working on pre-existing conditions.
 
  #5  
Old 09-22-14, 08:20 AM
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My issue is that there is nothing behind this gap to catch the spackle... and I am worried that it will break away from the drywall and fall down in due time.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 08:20 AM
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If you're doing this yourself, I think I would fill the majority of the gap with setting compound, as mud tends to shrink when it dries and therefore thick layers don't work too well.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 08:32 AM
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That's pretty bad.... You should have backing, namely the wall top plate.

But you don't. I would seriously consider Mark's idea and trim out top of wall.

The fast setting compound (20 minute mud), does adhere well and will allow you to make several passes in a short amount of time, but still.
I don't know how good you are with mud, but you could also make a "racetrack" ceiling around perimeter.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 08:33 AM
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You posted just in front of me.

Is there enough gap to make it reasonable to cut pieces of drywall to fit and screw them in place?
 
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Old 09-22-14, 08:36 AM
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If you prefill the gap, it needs to be done in multiple coats because there isn't really anything for the mud to attach to other than the edge of the drywall. Once the 1st application of mud is dry, the next coat of mud can attach to the dried mud. The paper tape over the prefill will help hold it all in place but that isn't an ideal fix. I'd try to insert strips of drywall where you can.... but that won't be easy either
 
  #10  
Old 09-22-14, 08:39 AM
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Mitch, that would be the right way to do it, but the whole bathroom is only 3' x 6', so the best thing to do would be the replace the whole ceiling. I am fighting an uphill battle.... only have a few weeks to get the house ready for the pregnant wife to move in. Speed is key right now.
 
  #11  
Old 09-22-14, 08:43 AM
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If it's that small, how about laminating the ceiling with 1/2" drywall. That would make the gaps more manageable.
 
  #12  
Old 09-22-14, 08:45 AM
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The gap is in the ceiling? I thought the wall boards didn't come all the way up to the ceiling based on your original question.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 08:46 AM
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It's my understanding the gap is at the top of the wall, laminating the ceiling lowers the ceiling and should close up the gap ..... or am I misunderstanding the problem?
 
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Old 09-22-14, 08:47 AM
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The ceiling is cut short of the walls. I like the idea of laminating the whole ceiling with 1/2" sheetrock. That should be fairly quick and easy.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 08:48 AM
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Yeah, I would laminate the ceiling based on this new knowledge of the issue
 
  #16  
Old 09-22-14, 09:08 AM
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Good Idea all,
That's what the Racetrack is also, laminating the ceiling, but only 6" or so out from wall.
Doubling up the whole ceiling though would probably be easier than mudding the racetrack.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 12:16 PM
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With the race track you need the J type [?] corner bead to dress up the exposed edge. IMO it looks better on larger rms.
 
  #18  
Old 10-10-14, 02:03 AM
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The gap may have been left for original specification of crown molding, either plaster cornice or cove, or timber scotia.

My guess is it was on the to do list of previous owner and or they ran out of money.

Finish as possibly intended, this is the quickest simplest fix.

Alternatively...

Double mesh tape the gap, run a light coat of setting compound over the cieling tape junction. When set then plug the gap with a strong stiff mix if setting compound. Because the tape is already plastered to the cieling you should be good. When set scrape flush with a tungsten blade paint scraper. Mud up again and bed in some paper faced metal 90 internal beadings. Finish as desired.
 
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