Repairing plaster closet with Durabond90

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  #1  
Old 05-02-16, 06:53 AM
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Repairing plaster closet with Durabond90

My home was built in 1924. Plaster throughout. I'm repainting and the bedroom closet has plaster that has fallen off to expose the a rough, cement like board underneath.

I've used joint compound, but I understand I need something more "heavy duty" to fill in the large pieces of plaster that have fallen off.

What is the proper procedure for this?

1. Fill in patches with durabond90
2. Finish coat with the green lid JC

Is the above correct?

I'm wondering if I need to fibafuse anywhere or can I just durabond everything, then finish with my JC and be good?

When building the closet shelves, the original builder used big nails and hammered through the plaster and the rough cement like backer board, causing holes and cracks.

Thanks for any advice.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-02-16, 10:13 AM
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The setting type joint compound (hot mud) adheres much better than regular joint compound and has less shrinkage. I use the easy sand 20 minute. The 20 minute will dry hard in about 45 minutes.

Adhesion is usually not a problem. If you want the best adhesion, vacuum all dust and coat the edges of the old plaster with shellac or a shellac based primer before filling. I usually only coat the edges for stress cracks, not holes.
 
  #3  
Old 05-02-16, 10:38 AM
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Thanks for the reply. The damage is pretty extensive to the plaster. Do you think I'd be better using a filler like the durabond 90 to fill all my missing plaster and then use easy sand on top of that or use green lid JC on top of the durabond? Or should I just do the whole thing in easy sand 20 minute? Just wondering if one or the other, or a combination of both will give me best adhesion and less likelihood of cracks appearing.

I use KILZ alot..would that work to coat the edges? I also have SW A-500 Alkyd exterior primer..
 
  #4  
Old 05-02-16, 11:24 AM
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I usually use Durabond 20 minute mud for repairing plaster although any setting compound will do better than ready mix j/c. If you think you'll need to sand, ready mix sands better so it's often beneficial to use it for the final coat.

While I'm not all that familiar with fibafuse, mudding in a mat works well if the wall is full of hairline cracks. Other wise I just scratch out the cracks and fill with durabond.

Oil base Kilz is ok but I wouldn't recommend using latex Kilz as it's reported to have adhesion issues.
 
  #5  
Old 05-02-16, 12:25 PM
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Thanks marksr, I'll try to post some pics later of the areas I need to fill and finish. I'm using fibafuse now on the inside of the bedroom, just layering in a strip over any cracks in the plaster I can find before I skim coat with green lid. I'd like to try and avoid that if possible in the closet, where the damage is more excessive. Being able to skip any taping, and just Durabond for my fill and then ready mix for my finish coat would be a timesaver.
 
  #6  
Old 05-02-16, 02:14 PM
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Generally you don't have to tape plaster repairs when using a setting compound [not that it hurts] The mat I was referring to is wide like wallpaper and allows you to fix a whole section of wall full of cracks at one time.
 
  #7  
Old 05-03-16, 04:16 AM
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I'm having pretty good results with the fibafuse on the wide open wall in the bedroom, but I don't look forward to messing with it in the small closet. Just being able to go with the hot mud as my fill and the easysand as my top coat will be easier for me to work with in that cramped area.

What do I put on top of the easysand..do I prime then can I go to paint?
 
  #8  
Old 05-03-16, 04:31 AM
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Setting compounds get sanded and primed just like regular joint compound or drywall. I often use regular ready mix j/c for the final coat because it sands easier than durabond. Don't forget to wipe off the sanding dust!
 
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