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new slider installed. casing/trim help- sheetrock not flush with door?

new slider installed. casing/trim help- sheetrock not flush with door?

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  #1  
Old 02-04-17, 08:04 AM
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new slider installed. casing/trim help- sheetrock not flush with door?

Hello all,

I've had a new slider installed and need to finish it up with casing.
The sheetrock is not flush with door.

Is there a particular casing designed for this?

Do i have to shim it to make it flush?


thank you,
Mark

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  #2  
Old 02-04-17, 08:50 AM
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Why is there OSB on the interior wall, THEN sheetrock? That is what is throwing things off. The only solution I can think of is stacking molding so it meets the door, but is fastened securely to the wall. This is a very rudimentary rendition of what I mean. The short piece would be ripped to the depth of the door to the sheetrock edge, and attached to the molding prior to installation as a unit. You can miter the corners or use stack effect, either one.

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  #3  
Old 02-04-17, 09:11 AM
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Chandler,

The OSB you see in one pic is up at the corner where they used a piece to shim in a gapped area. The sheetrock is directly on 2x4. I took another pic and pushed in the insulation a little to show it.

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I was going to get some 1/2" thick x 1.5" wide white MDF/PVC and glue it on to the door flush with inner edge, then trim it out with casing over the top to hide everything. Guess that should work. The sheetrock would then be flush with the PVC trim board.

I had hoped there might be a casing with 1/2" offset to make it easier.....guess not.
 
  #4  
Old 02-04-17, 09:16 AM
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When I run into that I usually rip the edge of a 2x to the needed thickness, nail it to the jamb and then install the casing, similar to what you propose.
 
  #5  
Old 02-04-17, 10:25 AM
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Marksr,

I would do that, but the door rides inside that channel/jamb where i need it to be flush up with the sheetrock. That is why i opted for gluing it, versus nailing. Thank you for the input tho!

Mark
 
  #6  
Old 02-04-17, 10:40 AM
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You generally do it just the way Chandler drew it. A 1/2" piece is fastened to the casing, then the casing is fastened to the wall.
 
  #7  
Old 02-04-17, 11:13 AM
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XSleep,

For some reason, i wasnt getting it.......but NOW i've got it !!

To be clear, i really only want to cover up the open area with insulation and leave most of the door framing open/viewable and NOT cover that up with the casing. Is that correct?

Should I glue the 1/2" x 1" (or so) piece to backside of the casing?
 
  #8  
Old 02-04-17, 11:24 AM
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It would normally be 1/2" x 3/4", you can glue it if you like... those of us with air guns would just brad nail the two pieces together so that the edge of the casing covers up 1/2" of the side that is 3/4" wide. (Leaving 1/4" of it protruding as a "reveal".)

It will cover about 3/4" of the edge of your door once you nail it on.

1/2" x 3/4" stock is called "parting stop" and most decent lumber yards will stock it. If not, it's pretty easy to cut some on a table saw.
 
  #9  
Old 02-04-17, 11:31 AM
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Xsleeper,

Are you saying to install the 1/2 x 3/4 on backside of casing so that 1/4 inch extends beyond the edge of the casing? im confused again.

I do have air gun, but would have to go get 1" brads i guess. The ones i have are 1.5 and 2"
 
  #10  
Old 02-04-17, 11:49 AM
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Yep, you've got it!

Depending on how thick your casing is, yes, you might need shorter nails.
 
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