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Fixing Sloped Ceiling from Rain Damage - Spackle Only?

Fixing Sloped Ceiling from Rain Damage - Spackle Only?


  #1  
Old 04-16-19, 07:01 PM
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Fixing Sloped Ceiling from Rain Damage - Spackle Only?

Hi All,

Several months ago, we had a loose roof shingle, which let water in to the sloped ceiling directly under it. I'm attaching three pictures of the damage, one from about 10 feet away, and then a close-up, and then a very close-up. (The close-up / very close-up are of the top-left part of the damage that is seen in the 10-feet-away image.)

Can I just spackle over the area now, and then sand and paint? This is in a bonus room, so it doesn't need to look perfect. If not just spackle, what would I need to do? FYI - I think part of the damage is at a seam between two pieces of drywall - best seen in the third picture/close-up, i.e., with the horizontal line.

We had a roofer fix the shingle, so that's not a problem now.

Thanks for any advice!
 
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Old 04-16-19, 07:16 PM
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You will need to cut away anything that is loose or bubbled, I see a lot that needs to be cut away or chiselled back with a putty knife. If you want to use fiberglass tape you could apply lightweight setting compound, such as easy sand 20 or 45. (Comes in powder form, you mix only what you need in a drywall pan by mixing it with water) Use that to fill any deep voids and as your first very thin coat with a wide knife. Once it's dry, go over it a couple more times with regular joint compound.

And "spackle" is definitely the wrong word (and product) to use in this situation.
 
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Old 04-16-19, 07:48 PM
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And "spackle" is definitely the wrong word (and product) to use in this situation
Re-posting this line to add emphasis.
 
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Old 04-16-19, 08:16 PM
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I've never had someone re-post a quote, just for emphasis.

So, um, I guess - no spackling?

There is no bubbling and actually very little to cut away. There is also nothing really deeper than maybe 1/4" or so. Anyway, I'll follow the way you said to do it; no spackle, I promise.

(And just for my own knowledge - why no spackle? What would happen if I used spackle?)

Thanks again!
 
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Old 04-16-19, 08:31 PM
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Spackle is for minor repairs... like maybe the hole left by a nail where a picture used to hang... or a very minor dent on a painted wall.

to quote the directions of one popular brands' spackle...

XXXXXXX can be applied to previously painted or fully primed wood, painted or primed drywall and plaster. XXXXXXX is designed to quickly and easily fill small cracks, primed nail holes, shallow hammer marks, gouges and other minor surface defacements. Use only on clean, dry and primed surfaces. XXXXXXX is not intended to be a cure all for badly damaged surfaces. Not intended for floors or joints where continuous and/or excessive expansion and contraction may occur. It is the responsibility of the user to follow application instructions and properly prepare surface prior to and after product application. User is responsible for determining if this product is suitable and fit for the application and substrate on which it is intended to be applied.

So in a nutshell, spackle is not suitable for your repair for MULTIPLE reasons.
 
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Old 04-16-19, 09:17 PM
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Joint compound or setting compound are the products intended for the job you have at hand.
 
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Old 04-16-19, 09:22 PM
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I'll go to Home Depot tomorrow and buy some all-purpose joint compound, easy sand 45, and self-adhesive fiberglass drywall tape. What order do I use them in?

After I remove all the loose, bubbly pieces, do I then use the tape first or the easy sand 45? After I use those two (in the correct order), then I use the all-purpose joint compound. Then primer and ceiling paint. Does that seem correct?

If so, then all I really need to know is whether I use the tape first or the easy sand 45.

Thanks again, all.
 
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Old 04-16-19, 09:26 PM
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Ooh, also - where do I use the tape? In the entire damaged area, or only along the seam between the two pieces of sheetrock?

(If only along the seam, then what do I do in the other areas? Just easy sand 45 and then all-purpose joint compound?)

Thanks (yet again!)!
 
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Old 04-17-19, 02:04 AM
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Any where there is missing [or removed] tape along with any cracks will need to be taped. Everything else just needs to be filled or leveled off with your mud. Once it's sanded and the dust removed you'll be ready for primer and paint. If there are any water stains remaining you need to coat them with a solvent based primer to prevent the stain from bleeding thru the latex finish paint.
 
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Old 04-17-19, 05:45 AM
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Great, thanks.

Can you also please confirm the order of application? In areas where I'm using tape, do I use the tape first, then the easy sand 45, then the all-purpose joint compound?

Or do I use the easy sand 45, then the tape, then the all-purpose joint compound?

Also, do I do just one layer of easy sand 45, and then multiple layers (if needed) of all-purpose joint compound?

Or do I use multiple layers of easy sand 45 (if needed), and then finish off with just one layer of all-purpose joint compound?

Thanks again!
 
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Old 04-17-19, 06:48 AM
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If you are using the sticky tape you'd tape first and then apply a coat of easy sand, all coats can be easy sand if you wish but the first coat over sticky tape must be a setting compound. If you use paper tape, it would be embedded in the first coat of mud.
 
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Old 04-17-19, 07:36 PM
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Thanks for the advice, Mark.

I'm wondering if I can use something called FibaFuse instead of the fiberglass mesh tape (FibaFuse Paperless Drywall Tape | ADFORS). It looks like you don't need to use a setting-type compound with FibaFuse, and that I can instead use the pre-mixed all-purpose joint compound.

I would much prefer to use the pre-mixed stuff rather than having to mix the easy sand 45 myself, for a variety of reasons.

Anyone have any experience or thoughts regarding if I can use FibaFuse instead? Any actual downsides? I'm guessing its not what a professional would use, but I don't really need that. If FibaFuse + all-purpose joint compound would work, then that's good enough for me. I'm also not in a rush, so I don't mind doing one layer of all-purpose joint compound, and then waiting 24 hours for it to dry, then doing another layer, etc.

(Incidentally, if I can use FibaFuse + AP joint compound, how many total layers do I need? One layer to embed the FibaFuse into, and then one on top of it? Anything else?

Thanks again!
 
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Old 04-18-19, 02:29 AM
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I've never used Fiba-Fuse but have heard good things about it. If I'm not mistaken one of our drywall/plaster pros - tightcoat, has. Hopefully he'll see this thread and have time to reply.
 
 

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