Bathroom ceiling help

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  #1  
Old 09-18-20, 06:08 PM
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Bathroom ceiling help

The tape job was messed up so i ripped all the tape off that seam, and redid it. I smoothed it out using spackle, and killzone paint. I did this 3-4 times with different spackle each time, and each time within 1-2 months it cracks, and looks like crap.

This seam is right above the shower.

My question is what can i do to fix this? Am i using the wrong paint or spackle?





 
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Old 09-18-20, 06:15 PM
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Well first off, you don't use "spackle" to mud joints. You use joint compound... or setting compound. In a bathroom, its often a good idea to use durabond on your first coat, since it is water resistant. (But be advised that you need to put it on sparingly and neatly, not leaving any ridges, because you can't sand durabond... its hard like a rock.) Don't know what it looked like before, but cracks need to be taped. If you ripped off tape and didn't replace it with new tape, thats also part of the problem.

As bad as it looks you should probably just cut out that entire section of ceiling and put up a new piece of drywall... that way it will be flat with no cracks and you will just have to tape the corners and edges of the new sheet of drywall.
 
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Old 09-19-20, 03:03 AM
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I agree. ...2 other things that could be playing a part; the walls/ceiling should be painted with a latex enamel [any sheen] as it will repel moisture, flat paint will not and is there an exhaust fan in use?
 
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Old 09-19-20, 04:51 AM
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Also cracks like that tell me there might be movement from above or the ceiling is not sufficiently nailed to joist.
 
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Old 09-19-20, 06:14 AM
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There was play, but i put a 2x6 across the seam a long time ago. I meant joint compound is what i used. I do use the exhaust fan. Also i did tape it again. I will try again with stuff that was mentioned. Really hoping i don't have to replace the drywall.
 
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Old 09-19-20, 10:41 AM
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Durabond works well and since it's not water soluble the moisture from the shower shouldn't affect it. You only want to mix up how much you can use before it sets. Any leftover mud has to be discarded - it can't be saved. As noted above it dries real hard and can be a bear to sand so apply it neatly. I use Durabond [or similar] a lot but often use regular j/c for the final coat. Setting muds come in different work times. I prefer the 20 minute mud but the 90 minute is probably the most popular.
 
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Old 09-21-20, 11:24 AM
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update. I used the durabond, and just painted it again. See how this holds up now. Hopefully done with this. I took more pics, but for some reason they are double the file size so they won't upload.
 
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Old 09-21-20, 12:32 PM
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its often a good idea to use durabond on your first coat
Hopefully you skimmed over it with regular joint compound on coats two and three, and then sanded it... if not, I don't expect it will look very smooth.
 
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Old 09-21-20, 02:44 PM
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Nope 3 coats durabond, and 2 coats paint. Its definately smooth. I was very cautious with applying it.
 
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Old 09-22-20, 02:13 AM
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Ya, you can get a slick finish with Durabond - it just takes more effort. One issue with using Durabond for the final coat is if you rush the paint the durabond can 'burn' the color/sheen out of the paint.
 
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