Drywall and retexture is your only option unless you want to get a 6ft wide medallion to put above the new location.
The ceiling texture is a simple crows foot stomp texture and is about the easiest one there is to blend in.
The texture brush looks like this. The trick to getting the texture right is thinning the joint compound with the right amount of water. To runny and it will be too thin looking, too thick and it will look to sharp and heavy. It should be like pudding. Make a sample board before you try it on the ceiling. You generally want to sand the area down to flatten it somewhat, then skim on the texture mud with a wide trowel or roll it on heavily with a paint roller. Then put the brush on a pole and stomp it, turning the brush randomly with each stomp. Once it is painted you will be hard pressed to pick out the repair.
Are you intending to leave the box and cover it up? This is a no no.
Or will you rake out the box and have a hole to patch? The prior suggestions are right on.
How is putting a cover on the box then sealing it a "no no?" This would be no different than having an in ceiling junction box, right? The NEC certainly allows this.
If there are wires in it you cannot conceal it. Just like you can't conceal a junction box. It would need a blank cover and would need to remain visible / accessible.
On big jobs, I also like to use a big plastic mixing tub, like this. The crows foot brush needs to be really wet and sloppy with mud. So I stomp it in the big plastic tub many times before using it. I imagine that for a newbie, if the brush was dry when you start, you would wonder what you are doing wrong.
OKAY, the patch is handled. I am still trying to understand. One can cover up and make a box invisible in the ceiling as long as it can be found from the attic under the insulation? I did not know this.
One can cover up and make a box invisible in the ceiling as long as it can be found from the attic under the insulation?
AFAIK, the box would need to be turned around to face upward before it is covered. Accessibility is in NEC 314.29. Whether they can be covered with insulation is open to interpretation.
Just read an article by Justin Stewart (July 16, 2009) on DIY titled How Drywall Joint Tape Works in which he fails to mention that fiberglass tape has a glue on it that can fail over time if you use it, only, to stick the tape to your wall over a crack or seam. I like to skim a layer of compound first and then put the fiberglass tape in the compound and then run the putty knife over the whole thing to smooth it out. Then another layer of compound at the same time or after it dries preferably. Also he indicates the paper tape is stronger. Not so! The fiberglass tape is much stronger. I am not sure about using the fiberglass in a corner joint but on a flat surface I would use the fiberglass. I am generally talking about cracks in a plaster house and not a drywall job.
11-19-20, 03:48 PM
