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new drywall meets textured drywall (ceiling)

new drywall meets textured drywall (ceiling)


  #1  
Old 06-29-22, 07:44 AM
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new drywall meets textured drywall (ceiling)

I removed a wall and the soffits above old cabiinets. I am left with new drywall against old textured drywall. It was textured once originally and then stomped over again a few years ago. The new drywall is significantly thinner/lower than the old textured drywall. My question is about taping the seam. Do I need to sand/scrape down that old texture down to the same level as the new drywall? What is the best way to go about this?

Thank you
 

Last edited by Djsrcy; 06-29-22 at 09:01 AM.
  #2  
Old 06-29-22, 08:03 AM
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Generally it's easier to tape if you scrape it down some first.
A pic or two would help us better understand just what you have.
 
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Old 06-29-22, 08:21 AM
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The edges against the existing drywall in this picture are the factory/tapered edge of the new drywall. I may change that to make up some of the thickness difference. I'm wondering what is the best way to "scrape" off that thick, painted texture. The original drywall IS 1/2" even though it doesnt look like it. That is what I am using.
Thanks

 
  #4  
Old 06-29-22, 10:00 AM
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It looks like you have a problem. You need sheetrock the same thickness as what is there. It could be 3/8, 1/2 or 5/8". It looks like what you used is 1/8 thinner than the rest of the ceiling. At this point it would be easier to remove what you've done and get the correct thickness. Or, carefully remove what you've done. Then shim the joists to make up the thickness and reinstall the already cut pieces of sheetrock.

Then there is the problem of finishing the ceiling. If you had popcorn texture it can easily be removed and you can do a smooth finish for the whole room or apply new popcorn to the whole ceiling. Yes, you can texture only your repair area but getting the two textures to match can be difficult. If you have a stipple, brush or swirl pattern your headache is just beginning. Swirls & arcs are hard to match but brush and stipple textures can be a bit easier to duplicate though it takes experience or a lot of patience to make it match up well.
 
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Old 06-29-22, 10:19 AM
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You may have misread my post or I wasn't very clear. The existing/old ceiling thickness IS 1/2". It doesnt look like it becasue the facory/tapered edge of the NEW drywall makes it look thinner. I probably will take down the new drywall and rehang it with a cut edge (not factory) against the old/existing drywall so the thickness difference is a little less dramatic. I am going to have to match a stomped texture. This is not my concern because I can restomp the entire ceiling. The question I am asking is...
What is the best way to remove/scrape off the existing finish so that I can successfully tape the seam.
Thanks
 

Last edited by Djsrcy; 06-29-22 at 11:00 AM.
  #6  
Old 06-29-22, 01:29 PM
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I'd leave the beveled edge - you can fill it with j/c. You don't have to remove all the texture, I'd scrape off what comes off easily and then mud/tape over it.
 
  #7  
Old 06-29-22, 02:59 PM
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If you want to scrape off some of the texture it might be a little easier if you wet it a bit first. A paint scraper works about as well as anything. Use one that scrapes on the pull stroke. Sharpen it as needed, Then prefill the tapered edge to get it closer to even then tape and finish, If you scrape off some texture then after you do lay a straightedge that will span the whole patch and see just how shy you really are.
Your butt ends to the original look pretty close. It would have been better to put the tapered edges together then you would have one less but joint and no or at least less offset.
 
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Old 06-30-22, 08:04 AM
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Ok so the taped edge doesn’t have to be perfectly flat? I will go look for the scraper you mentioned.
thanks guys
 
  #9  
Old 06-30-22, 08:44 AM
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i think you get a better edge if you prefill the TAPERED edge and let that dry then tape and smooth and flatten the joint. Before you texture your patch yow want the whole area including what you lap onto the existing ceiling to be as perfect as you can get it. If you have some scraps to practice the texture on i is a good idea to do so. An alternative is to make the whole ceiling smooth then texture the whole lid. I personally prime a ceiling before I texture it. I usually do not paint the ceilings afterward if I texture them.. I should clarify here. if I texture them by hand with a swirl or stomp I don’t paint them. If I knockdown or orange peel I do not prime before I spray but I do paint after they are dry.
When I do a hand texture after the texture is dry I shave off the points with a stainless trowel. This leaves a bit of sheen on the ceiling. Of course that ceiling will be painted eventually but until that happens I like the highlight of the shiny places. But that is just me. It harkens back to the days when things were plastered and that is what I learned then. I wish I could light a ceiling to take a picture of what I mean. Never shows in a photograph.
 
  #10  
Old 06-30-22, 10:49 AM
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I did the current texture so I should be able to duplicate. I never thought of filling in the beveled edge instead of just taking it down and hanging a new piece without the beveled edge. 🤔 so fill in the tapered edge and then sand/scrape the finished edge smooth, and then tape..?
 
  #11  
Old 06-30-22, 01:04 PM
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pretty much, the textured edge doesn't need to be perfectly smooth, just level enough so you can mud/tape over it
 
 

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