Norcold Refridgerator


  #41  
Old 11-08-10, 09:17 PM
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Hi..newbie on board. I was feeling like we had the worst luck when it come to RV refers...but after being on here I see we are not alone. Have had our first "new-to-us" camper for just over a year. Soon discoverd the fridge in the unit was shot..it made very loud noises and when flipped you could actually hear liquid moving around. For the summer last year we filled the hole with a small bar fridge and could only run on electric. Then a deal come up to buy a used refer. Norcold 462. I saw this unit before purchase (out of the camper) and it was cold.(temps were dead on) Worked awesome..so I bought it. We had to modify our hole but we got it to fit in our camper. Turned it on electric and next morning freezer was -20C (excellent temp for freezing ice cream and fridge was about +4C which is the in the right area for keeping food safe. Left the fridge on and checked later in the day..freezer still colder fridge warming up.... did some investigating and tried to move the thermistor (could have made it worse now that I read more info or rather opinions in some cases). I have turned off and retried it and it gets cold in freezer but not in fridge.. its like it thinks its cold enough or something. I think I may have made matters worse with moving thermistor.. moved it to the tenth fin from right about 1 1/2" from top of fin. I am so sad over this and have spent all day trying to diagnose what it could be. Want to make pulling the fridge out to "burp" last resort..obd scanner its heavy and awkward. Next step will be to bypass the thermastat and run it but just wondering if I screwed that thermistor up???
For the cooling unit end I really don't think its failing.. NO noise, NO smell, NO yellowing. Absorber coils are about same temp as the vessel and pipe.. they do get less hot as they go up but no where near cold or even cool.. comfortable I'd say. The vents are all clear and I am certain the standard for space around the unit is within the specs. Am I missing anything?
So much info to take in and just don't know what to believe when you read so much contradicting information on the net. There is a lot of info that is pretty straight forward and alike but boy its a lot of info.
 
  #42  
Old 11-21-10, 01:32 PM
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rv norcold use at home

I took my nice norcold from motor home. When removing, we diconnected gas and unplugged it. When I plugged it in at home, Nothing happened, I assume its a lack of 12 volt problem. This is a nice2 door (top and bottom) with digital display (3 pushpads)
How do I make it work at home or should I trade it for a home Refrig. I figured this was a low energy user.
 

Last edited by tom45424; 11-21-10 at 01:38 PM. Reason: unfinished
  #43  
Old 05-04-11, 08:28 AM
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This sounds like a venting problem and not a problem with the 462

Originally Posted by diqiu598 View Post
Hi..newbie on board. I was feeling like we had the worst luck when it come to RV refers...but after being on here I see we are not alone. Have had our first "new-to-us" camper for just over a year. Soon discoverd the fridge in the unit was shot..it made very loud noises and when flipped you could actually hear liquid moving around. For the summer last year we filled the hole with a small bar fridge and could only run on electric. Then a deal come up to buy a used refer. Norcold 462. I saw this unit before purchase (out of the camper) and it was cold.(temps were dead on) Worked awesome..so I bought it. We had to modify our hole but we got it to fit in our camper. Turned it on electric and next morning freezer was -20C (excellent temp for freezing ice cream and fridge was about +4C which is the in the right area for keeping food safe. Left the fridge on and checked later in the day..freezer still colder fridge warming up.... did some investigating and tried to move the thermistor (could have made it worse now that I read more info or rather opinions in some cases). I have turned off and retried it and it gets cold in freezer but not in fridge.. its like it thinks its cold enough or something. I think I may have made matters worse with moving thermistor.. moved it to the tenth fin from right about 1 1/2" from top of fin. I am so sad over this and have spent all day trying to diagnose what it could be. Want to make pulling the fridge out to "burp" last resort..obd scanner its heavy and awkward. Next step will be to bypass the thermastat and run it but just wondering if I screwed that thermistor up???
For the cooling unit end I really don't think its failing.. NO noise, NO smell, NO yellowing. Absorber coils are about same temp as the vessel and pipe.. they do get less hot as they go up but no where near cold or even cool.. comfortable I'd say. The vents are all clear and I am certain the standard for space around the unit is within the specs. Am I missing anything?
So much info to take in and just don't know what to believe when you read so much contradicting information on the net. There is a lot of info that is pretty straight forward and alike but boy its a lot of info.
This goes for ANY gas absorption model refrigerator - If it's working in the freezer but not in the refrigerator section then the problem will always be with your ventillation. What is really happening is just that there isn't enough ammonia solution to get all the way through the cooling unit which means that there isn't enough condensation being created at the top of the cooling unit (at the condenser fins).

You said that it didn't originally fit so I'm curious as to how the venting actually does look. This is a smaller unit so you probably have two sidewall vents (one at the top and one at the bottom of the refer). Take the lower access panel off and make sure you can see right up through the top. You need to also make sure that the air is being FORCED across the condenser fins (either by the back wall or a baffle that you have made).
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 05-04-11 at 08:44 AM. Reason: Link removed. Advertising not allowed.
  #44  
Old 05-04-11, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tom45424 View Post
I took my nice norcold from motor home. When removing, we diconnected gas and unplugged it. When I plugged it in at home, Nothing happened, I assume its a lack of 12 volt problem. This is a nice2 door (top and bottom) with digital display (3 pushpads)
How do I make it work at home or should I trade it for a home Refrig. I figured this was a low energy user.
Trade it for a household refrigerator. RV refrigerators like yours need to be plugged into 12V DC at all times in order to operate. The 12V does not help cool it down at all but simply keeps the the Power/Optical boards functioning properly. If you are able to keep a constant 12V power source to it then by all means go ahead and keep it indoors but you will need to make sure that it is properly vented if you plan on running it on LP at all.
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 05-04-11 at 08:45 AM. Reason: Link removed. Soliciting not allowed.
  #45  
Old 05-24-11, 09:34 PM
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norcold n821 leaking yellow powder substance from around door handles

I have carriage cameo trailer with a norcold n821flt refrigerator. When I opened it up from being in storage this winter I noticed there was a yellow or white colored substance that was leaking from around the door handles on the fridge.The biggest amount was on the outside of the door but also some on the inside to. The substance looked like a big round clump. I knocked it off onto the floor and it broke up into small pieces. I had left a box of baking soda in the fridge all winter but nothing was coming out of that. So I am wondering if I have an ammonia leak or if this could just be insulation from inside the doors. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this???? Any help would be much appreciated
 
  #46  
Old 07-19-11, 12:53 PM
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Norcold 682

Is there supposed to be insulation in the stack behind the inspection cover? The freezer works good but the fridge is intermittent, more warm than cold. Also it will only work on the high humidity setting, no interior light or panel lights.
 
  #47  
Old 08-03-11, 07:53 AM
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Norcold 1200 propane problem

Fridge works great on ac,but when I attempt to light the propane I get the typical 30 second burn and then the gas flow is shut down and I get the dreaded beeping sound and NO FL on the optical board.
I've tried to clean any debris out of the flu....could this be a thermocouple problem?
 
  #48  
Old 08-03-11, 11:33 AM
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thank you I found the answer to my previous question
 

Last edited by neecee; 08-03-11 at 11:40 AM. Reason: found answer
  #49  
Old 08-18-11, 10:37 AM
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Unhappy Blink code 5

Ive read my manual, I see the 5 blink code means calls a dealer repairman for my N811RT camper refridge.. but I dont see what exactly the 5 blinks mean! I really just want an idea of what I am going to be paying for. Ballpark..is it like $1500 for repairs, or ditching it and buying one from home depot and "fitting" it in the hole. anyone know what the 5 blinks actually mean?
 
  #50  
Old 09-13-11, 12:14 PM
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I have a Norcold 8682 in a 1987 Bounder. It has worked fine for many years, (except at high altitudes), till last night. We have been on a trip to the Laguna mountains. It worked fine on elec in a campground at 2300 ft Friday. Worked fine in a campground at 4000 ft on gas Saturday and Sunday. Monday night, in a campground at 6000 ft, the flame went out and would not relight. I can hear the gas flow, but it does not light, and the electric system shuts off the gas flow after about four seconds. Even tried lighting it with a propane wand a few times. No luck. Ran our generator, and put the refirg on elec, and it worked fine. Returned to sea level same day, and it now works on elec or gas. Lit the first try on gas.

I don't see an "altitude adjustment" in the operators manual. Is there one? Any other solution?

Hank
 
  #51  
Old 10-29-11, 09:33 AM
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Thumbs down code on norcold n821r

i have a norcold n821r it works fine in gas or elec mode.my prob.is when i put it in auto mode it will not switch over(if in gas and plug into power will not go to elec.auto)i have to manully switch it.same from elec.to gas.it comes up code c i can find anything in service book just tells me go to dealer.did that got charged $119 the said it worked fine.went camping a few weeks ago and they lied dont work.so much for camping world.i know i should take it back but it would cost me about that much in gas and tolls.should have checked it when i picked it up i know im a dumb a--.
 
  #52  
Old 03-19-12, 06:56 AM
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Monroe0 what was the problem as I have the same thing?

RV is level. Ambient temperature 55-75. Humidity 50%.
The unit works on LP, but only when switched to High Humidity.
On "Normal Operation", AC, LP and the interior light do not work.
Does not work on AC, even though plugged in and 12v, 120AC is present.
When AC wired directly to the 120V element, it cools wonderfully. However, this bypasses the thermostat and switches.
Fuses look good.
Bruce.
I have not triedwiring to the 120 vt element. I did take the fridge out al lay it on its side though and no help.
My light does not work too on NORMAL for a long time, but in Humidy it does and it cooled in HUMIDTY so I never set it in NORMAL since I have owned it. Now it will not cool in any setting?
 
  #53  
Old 04-24-12, 08:27 PM
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hello everybody new on this forum im looking to see if i can solve my problem i have a n811rt that will not work on AC,but works perfectly on LP i got power when switched to auto,but just won't kick in im guessing it might be heating element,but that's just a guess. i can't find a rv repair in the area if anybody can help me out i would really appriciate it. thank you
 
  #54  
Old 06-03-12, 03:37 PM
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Hi Bam Bam have you found out what is causing your problem ? As i have the identical same thing Except itbis still working on LP I beleive its either the eyebrow panel or the control unit ??
 
  #55  
Old 09-04-12, 02:46 PM
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Norcold fridge

My Norcold fridge in a 2006 motorhome stopped working on electrical and gas, the green light on the front of the fridge is flashing 5 times, anyone have any ideas?
 
  #56  
Old 09-06-12, 06:28 PM
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Post Norcold pilot light

Our Norcold pilot light won't stay lit. It may last a few hours or a few days but inevitably it goes out. When it is lit, the unit works just fine staying cold as long as the pilot is on.
 
  #57  
Old 09-21-12, 02:32 AM
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ok,that's good! I have many question to ask then.Just found this is good site;
 
  #58  
Old 09-26-12, 04:58 PM
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Problem: 1200 LRIM won't cool properly when moving

I have a 4 door unit. New Amish cooling package - works great. It will not cool well when the RV is underway - very noticeable in hot weather. Temps will go up 5 degrees in both freezer and box in 4 hours of travel. I figure it has to be an airflow problem. Changed the vent cover - no help. Tried spacers (3/4") to raise the cover - made it worse. I have less than 1/4" clearance at the back of the fridge and a near vertical space to the vent above the fins. Fans are working properly. No gap above the fridge (was 3/4" but I closed that off by pushing foam insulation into it). I have installed two inches of insulation throughout the reefer cabinet area (thus the close fit in the back).

I am now absolutely foxed! Any ideas I haven't tried?
 
 

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