Norcold Refridgerator

Closed Thread

  #1  
Old 07-22-03, 12:03 PM
patt_taylor
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Norcold Refridgerator

We recently purchased a used Carriage 5th wheel. The refr. in it HAS been working for us (we've used it twice), but on our last outing the refr. stopped doing ANYTHING. The lp gas, the electrical or the 12 volt systems ALL seem to be at a halt. We've checked fuses but can't seem to figure out what's going on. With no owners manual, we're stumped. Any help or advice you can give will be greatly appreciated.
Patt
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 07-26-03, 04:48 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 516
If you can plug in to 110v that will tell you if the refrigerator is working at all, You need to make sure you're absolutely level. If it is then you need to work on the other systems.
You didn't mention what brand of refer but you can usually get a manual online or from the manufacturer. If you're handy you may be able to pick up some type of refer repair guide on ebay.
If when using it you were not level you could have damaged it.
 
  #3  
Old 08-03-03, 03:38 PM
Balou62
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Another fridge problem

We too have a Norcold and have never had one problem with it, until this weekend. Have always been able to keep ice-cream frozen, but this weekend, nothing froze, just stayed very cold. Came home, plugged into electric and it seems to be working fine. However, when we switch over to propane, fridge pilot won't light and check light comes on. Both propane tanks are full, and the two batteries are charged, is there a fuse or anything we can check? Can't seem to find troubleshooting info in the manual. Not sure why all of the sudden we can't stay connected through propane and why the refridgerator pilot won't stay lit...any ideas?? Thanks!
 
  #4  
Old 11-12-04, 09:06 AM
Missy
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Norcold recall

We have a 1988 Minnie Winnie and had received information that our refrigerator may have been recalled. It was suggested not using the LP gas to run it until you had contacted Norcold. You may want to locate the nearest service center, call (800) 877-0488 or visit www.norcold.com.
 
  #5  
Old 02-02-05, 09:35 AM
Big Jim
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Most RV refridgerators use ammonia rather than freon to cool them. After a period of time the ammonia goes to the bottom of the coils and quits cooling. Remove the propane line and unplug the unit and pull it out of the wall. Turn it upside down, you will hear the ammonia return to the accumulator tank and leave set for 24hrs. Then turn it right side up and plug in the cord to check it. I know this sounds funny but it works, and it sure beats 700.00 for a new one. Then reinstall
 
  #6  
Old 04-26-07, 08:12 PM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Palm Springs, Malibu and the Road
Posts: 1
Did anyone find solution/repair their GAS RV FRIDGE?

I have a Norcold Gas Refridgerator in my 1993 Open Road that will not re-light after being in storage for a month. I worked great prior to that.
Thanks.

[email protected]
310-944-2055
 
  #7  
Old 05-12-07, 04:54 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 759
You should always clean the burner area after sitting as rust etc. can fall down from stack (chimney) and block the flow of propane. Remove philips screw from cover at base of stack, and move it out of the way & blow out with air nozzle or get a small brass brush and clean around the burner. (small tube with slots across it) Then try lighting again to see if flame appears. Remember if fridge is already at requested temperature inside, then burner will not try to light, until cooling is required. Open fridge door and let some warm air in if you have to to get it to start the cycle. Also check site below for recall on your serial number & model number, and site also have a phone number you can call.

Mike


http://www.norcold.com/HOME/CUSTOMERSUPPORT/RecallInfo/tabid/264/Default.aspx
 
  #8  
Old 06-03-08, 07:17 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1
norcold 120x-im

norcold 120x-im frezer works ac & gas but will not cool in refrigerator. need info how to check out or a complet repair manual
 
  #9  
Old 06-06-08, 05:00 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 759
FYI:
1) Always check for 12VDC first, before you try anything. Whether Dometic, or Norcold fridge with controls (switches or push buttons) at top of fridge, you need 12VDC coming in to the back of the fridge. The controls tell the fridge what to do, and without 12VDC, it won't do anything.
2) Take back (outside) cover off and with a flashlight if necessary,take a real good look at all the tubing and especially close to your stack (chimney) where heat goes up, for any yellowish powder residue.This is the sign of an ammonia leak, which in turn tells you the cooling unit is shot, and needs immediate attention. Shut it off & have it checked by a technician.
3) Sometimes simply shutting the fridge down for 24 hrs, will get things back up & running, but yes, removing it as said in other posting, and turning upside down, then back, will also get it going again.
4) To find out if the cooling unit is at fault, or some other electrical item in the circuit, you simply remove the 2 (AC Hydro) element wires from the circuit board, make up a jumper out of an old, good extension cord, cut off the female end of the plug on the cord, strip wires & put 2 connectors on the end (usually male spades, use white-neutral & hot-black extension wires) that match the connections on the circuit board, and mate with the element wires, (you'll end up with 1 white to black & 1 black to black, as element wires are usually both black) plug them together, wrap well with electrical tape, and plug it in to your existing AC hydro plug for the fridge, or wherever a plug is available, that you are sure has proper voltage, and let it run. This by-passes all the other electrical components of your fridge that may be faulty, and if the fridge cools good, the problem is not your cooling unit, and it's time to look elsewhere for your trouble. You will feel (careful its hot to touch) the heat on the sheild of your stack, after a little while, and the tubes, starting at top & working down, will start to get warm. Within 24-36 hrs, if your fridge is not cooling, your cooling unit is shot. Remember though, make sure the receptacle is good & if no heat at stack at all, your element is probably shot. Also remember, plug it in, after you have made your good connections and wrapped them good with electrical tape, before plugging it in. If not sure, don't try it !!
 
  #10  
Old 07-11-08, 11:15 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2
no power

triple check all grounds including engine block
 
  #11  
Old 07-11-08, 11:21 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2
Question RV NORCOLD 682 NO Freezing

I have a Norcold 682 that was working fine and now frezer temp 40 food 70 just replaced thermister and laid on side 2 hours leveled powered up and frozen bottles in freezer 24 hrs later temps rose again 40 freezer 70 food dont have a clue

NEED HELP ASAP
 
  #12  
Old 07-15-08, 05:42 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 759
Laid it on it's side ?? Some people have had luck with upside down for 12-24 hrs, then back upright for 12-24 hrs before firing it back up, but never heard of on it's side, or firing up that soon after upright again.
P.S.
As I stated in previous posting. If you wire direct to element from a jumper cord, VERY CAREFULLY, and element is working, (heat at stack) this eliminates all other things that can make it shut down prematurely, and fridge should cool properly unless problem with cooling unit is present. If your not experienced with AC hydro, then don't try it.!! Always make sure you check roof vent for proper/air flow, ventilation too !!
 
  #13  
Old 07-26-08, 01:31 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
Hi..newbie on board. I was feeling like we had the worst luck when it come to RV refers...but after being on here I see we are not alone. Have had our first "new-to-us" camper for just over a year. Soon discoverd the fridge in the unit was shot..it made very loud noises and when flipped you could actually hear liquid moving around. For the summer last year we filled the hole with a small bar fridge and could only run on electric. Then a deal come up to buy a used refer. Norcold 462. I saw this unit before purchase (out of the camper) and it was cold.(temps were dead on) Worked awesome..so I bought it. We had to modify our hole but we got it to fit in our camper. Turned it on electric and next morning freezer was -20C (excellent temp for freezing ice cream and fridge was about +4C which is the in the right area for keeping food safe. Left the fridge on and checked later in the day..freezer still colder fridge warming up.... did some investigating and tried to move the thermistor (could have made it worse now that I read more info or rather opinions in some cases). I have turned off and retried it and it gets cold in freezer but not in fridge.. its like it thinks its cold enough or something. I think I may have made matters worse with moving thermistor.. moved it to the tenth fin from right about 1 1/2" from top of fin. I am so sad over this and have spent all day trying to diagnose what it could be. Want to make pulling the fridge out to "burp" last resort.. its heavy and awkward. Next step will be to bypass the thermastat and run it but just wondering if I screwed that thermistor up???
For the cooling unit end I really don't think its failing.. NO noise, NO smell, NO yellowing. Absorber coils are about same temp as the vessel and pipe.. they do get less hot as they go up but no where near cold or even cool.. comfortable I'd say. The vents are all clear and I am certain the standard for space around the unit is within the specs. Am I missing anything?
So much info to take in and just don't know what to believe when you read so much contradicting information on the net. There is a lot of info that is pretty straight forward and alike but boy its a lot of info.
ANYONE? please help? All I want to do is go away with my family to a "non electric tucked away spot" and enjoy each other and wilderness. Campgrounds are so congested now its like camping in town limits almost.
Thanks to all who reply or even just read!
PS Have not tried unit on gas as I found this unit is on recall for a gas valve replacement and it was never changed... I am not about ready to risk my family to try it out.Waiting on part.. and crossing fingers fridge do what it is suppose to.. otherwise part is pointless.
 
  #14  
Old 07-26-08, 05:00 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 759
Originally Posted by bohsem View Post
Hi..newbie on board. I was feeling like we had the worst luck when it come to RV refers...but after being on here I see we are not alone. Have had our first "new-to-us" camper for just over a year. Soon discoverd the fridge in the unit was shot..it made very loud noises and when flipped you could actually hear liquid moving around. For the summer last year we filled the hole with a small bar fridge and could only run on electric. Then a deal come up to buy a used refer. Norcold 462. I saw this unit before purchase (out of the camper) and it was cold.(temps were dead on) Worked awesome..so I bought it. We had to modify our hole but we got it to fit in our camper. Turned it on electric and next morning freezer was -20C (excellent temp for freezing ice cream and fridge was about +4C which is the in the right area for keeping food safe. Left the fridge on and checked later in the day..freezer still colder fridge warming up.... did some investigating and tried to move the thermistor (could have made it worse now that I read more info or rather opinions in some cases). I have turned off and retried it and it gets cold in freezer but not in fridge.. its like it thinks its cold enough or something. I think I may have made matters worse with moving thermistor.. moved it to the tenth fin from right about 1 1/2" from top of fin. I am so sad over this and have spent all day trying to diagnose what it could be. Want to make pulling the fridge out to "burp" last resort.. its heavy and awkward. Next step will be to bypass the thermastat and run it but just wondering if I screwed that thermistor up???
For the cooling unit end I really don't think its failing.. NO noise, NO smell, NO yellowing. Absorber coils are about same temp as the vessel and pipe.. they do get less hot as they go up but no where near cold or even cool.. comfortable I'd say. The vents are all clear and I am certain the standard for space around the unit is within the specs. Am I missing anything?
So much info to take in and just don't know what to believe when you read so much contradicting information on the net. There is a lot of info that is pretty straight forward and alike but boy its a lot of info.
ANYONE? please help? All I want to do is go away with my family to a "non electric tucked away spot" and enjoy each other and wilderness. Campgrounds are so congested now its like camping in town limits almost.
Thanks to all who reply or even just read!
PS Have not tried unit on gas as I found this unit is on recall for a gas valve replacement and it was never changed... I am not about ready to risk my family to try it out.Waiting on part.. and crossing fingers fridge do what it is suppose to.. otherwise part is pointless.
10 from the right on thermistor is too much. Do you remember where it was originally ? Maybe 2 or 3 from the right? Try it back there. Give it 24 hrs to stabilize.
 
  #15  
Old 07-26-08, 08:53 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by Mike.B View Post
10 from the right on thermistor is too much. Do you remember where it was originally ? Maybe 2 or 3 from the right? Try it back there. Give it 24 hrs to stabilize.
It was about 5 or 6 from the right. Now what is the correct way to change this? do you shut down unit, move thermistor and then start up again? I haven't checked it yet this A.M. but will do soon. I have read so much.. I see that the thermistor is different in a lot of these units. On ours it is a copper line that at the end (about 2 or 3 inches worth) it is white. It is clipped on with metal clip.
I await your reply!

Thanks for your info tho... it is appreciated very much!

Well just went out to check refer. Freezer was VERY cold (below -20C) and fridge also very cold. Had thermometer in a cup of water and it was right around freezing. Second thermometer on bottom shelf above crisper drawers said it was within the right temperature. (When I started fridge this last time I set the thermostat at the coldest setting..I think out of pure frustration). So I filled the fridge with coolish (not warm) pop to see what happens. I didn't move the thermistor at this point as I just don't want to stop it from working...
Obviously this fridge gets cold.. I have a strong feeling it is something electronical...this I can live with .
 

Last edited by bohsem; 07-26-08 at 09:38 AM.
  #16  
Old 07-26-08, 10:15 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 759
Don't forget a good 12vdc source if running on gas. Ignitor will not re-light burner when required. (just in case.)
 
  #17  
Old 07-26-08, 10:57 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
No gas as of yet.. waiting for recall part to be replaced. But will keep in mind when time comes.
When I opened the freezer to check temp and then closed there was a suction or hissing noise coming from around door. Any idea what that is?
Fridge 2 hours since stocking with drinks is warm again but hoping this is just from stocking it.
I had turned the thermostat down before stocking as I didn't want to freeze cans..maybe I should have left temp alone.
One step at a time I guess.
 
  #18  
Old 07-27-08, 09:13 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
Update:
It seems during the day the fridge warms up to about +10C(thermomter in cup of water)much warmer with other thermomter on shelf. The freezer stays about -12C. When it cools down outside these temps go down to 0C (in cup), +4C on shelf, (below)-20C in freezer. (the freezer has maintained below zero temp as I have an ice cube in a cup to see if it changes form.)
The past couple of days have been pretty warm here, (well by our standards) being about +28-30C. Today is an overcast and cooler day. I am wondering if the outside weather is affecting these temps.
I felt the back of the unit and the absorber tank is a little warmer then the pipe and coils. The coils are close to cool as I move my hand up.
The fridge is set at 4 (5 being the coldest number).
This all was checked before 9a.m. .
How would a person check the thermostat and thermistor? If hooked up to an OhM meter is there a certain number that it should read? I know about direct wiring the unit so that you bypass the thermostat, but would this serve much purpose as we know that it can obviously get to below zero temps?
Is the thermistor the culprit somehow in this obvious conspiracy to drive me crazy?
Any and all info is good.. I am a sponge.. I absorb it all!!!
 
  #19  
Old 07-30-08, 10:43 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 2
Post N811RT Norcold

I have a N811RT Norcold. Work great turned off for a while and then was ready to use. At start up off to on. Fault code solid green three seconds flash 5 times then repeats it self. Tryed to reset, no good. Has 110vac and 12vdc did not see a pressure switch and do not know what kind of coolant it uses. Any help will be great.
 
  #20  
Old 07-30-08, 10:51 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 2
Post N811RT Norcold

I have a N811RT Norcold. Work great turned off for a while and then was ready to use. At start up off to on. Fault code solid green three seconds flash 5 times then repeats it self. Tryed to reset, no good. Has 110vac and 12vdc did not see a pressure switch and do not know what kind of coolant it uses. Any help will be great.
 
  #21  
Old 07-30-08, 06:17 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 759
If you don't have owners manual, clink on link below, and download PDF file, owners manual - 3/23/06 - 2/19/07 . It lists what to do about codes on page 12 of 14 on PDF file.

http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PARTS/N...0/Default.aspx


Good Luck.
 
  #22  
Old 08-17-08, 10:44 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1
Norcold fridge not working

Originally Posted by Mike.B View Post
If you don't have owners manual, clink on link below, and download PDF file, owners manual - 3/23/06 - 2/19/07 . It lists what to do about codes on page 12 of 14 on PDF file.

http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PARTS/N...0/Default.aspx


Good Luck.
Hi Mike i wonder if you can help us, we have just imported an rv inton the UK, we find the the fridge is not working, it is a Norcold 1200LRM, on the panel is comes up NO CO do you habe any idea what this means

Kind regards
Lorraine
 
  #23  
Old 01-12-09, 07:37 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 1
norcold 841 blowong 5v fuse

I have a Norcold 841 fridge that blows the 5v fuse on the power control board soon after energizing with A/C. This is a replacement unit from the recall and worked fine most of the time for about two years. It did have a couple of instances where it warmed up and had to be reset. How do I troubleshoot this unit.
Thanks,
Tom
 
  #24  
Old 06-16-09, 10:06 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2
Norcold in '88 Minnie Winnie not working

We've had this for a little over two years now. Up to this point, the fridge seemed to work reasonably well, even hooked up to A/C before we left for this last trip. I think this is the recalled model, as it looks original and doesn't appear to have been replaced. This last trip it suddenly stopped working entirely on propane, although we were quite a bit out of level. I'm just wondering if after we test it on A/C to see if it's still working at all, if we should try the pull it out and stand it on its side or top and re-hook it, or should we call the mfg. on the recall before we do anything like that?
 
  #25  
Old 06-19-09, 06:26 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2
Never mind, we tested it out and it was just a leveling issue...
 
  #26  
Old 02-10-10, 01:02 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 1
i have a norcold refridgerator m462 it will not cool on 120vac
work good on gas how to ck the AC heater is this what heat the coolent to cool the box
 
  #27  
Old 02-11-10, 05:43 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 759
abear0757

If you check voltage at the 2 terminals at board by following the 2 wires coming from 120 VAC heating element in side of stack, and your getting 110-120 volts, then the element is shot, and needs to be replaced. Make sure fridge door is open or whatever, and fridge is calling for cool. If gas burner is lit, then it's calling for cool, just switch to AC and then check for voltage at those 2 terminals. Don't forget to check for 120 VAC, at plug-in as well.
 
  #28  
Old 03-25-10, 03:03 PM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1
help

i have a norcold DE0061TR in my custom semi. I turned off my frig before i left on vacation. came back 12days later turned it on and it started to cool that night but the next morning my frig was hot does anyone have an idea what i could do. I turned it off waited 1 hr then turned it on and it cooled a little bit but then stoped again pls help thx
 
  #29  
Old 04-12-10, 10:41 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Shawnee, OK
Posts: 1
Mike B is good!

Originally Posted by Mike.B View Post
FYI:
1) Always check for 12VDC first, before you try anything. Whether Dometic, or Norcold fridge with controls (switches or push buttons) at top of fridge, you need 12VDC coming in to the back of the fridge. The controls tell the fridge what to do, and without 12VDC, it won't do anything.
2) Take back (outside) cover off and with a flashlight if necessary,take a real good look at all the tubing and especially close to your stack (chimney) where heat goes up, for any yellowish powder residue.This is the sign of an ammonia leak, which in turn tells you the cooling unit is shot, and needs immediate attention. Shut it off & have it checked by a technician.
3) Sometimes simply shutting the fridge down for 24 hrs, will get things back up & running, but yes, removing it as said in other posting, and turning upside down, then back, will also get it going again.
4) To find out if the cooling unit is at fault, or some other electrical item in the circuit, you simply remove the 2 (AC Hydro) element wires from the circuit board, make up a jumper out of an old, good extension cord, cut off the female end of the plug on the cord, strip wires & put 2 connectors on the end (usually male spades, use white-neutral & hot-black extension wires) that match the connections on the circuit board, and mate with the element wires, (you'll end up with 1 white to black & 1 black to black, as element wires are usually both black) plug them together, wrap well with electrical tape, and plug it in to your existing AC hydro plug for the fridge, or wherever a plug is available, that you are sure has proper voltage, and let it run. This by-passes all the other electrical components of your fridge that may be faulty, and if the fridge cools good, the problem is not your cooling unit, and it's time to look elsewhere for your trouble. You will feel (careful its hot to touch) the heat on the sheild of your stack, after a little while, and the tubes, starting at top & working down, will start to get warm. Within 24-36 hrs, if your fridge is not cooling, your cooling unit is shot. Remember though, make sure the receptacle is good & if no heat at stack at all, your element is probably shot. Also remember, plug it in, after you have made your good connections and wrapped them good with electrical tape, before plugging it in. If not sure, don't try it !!
Mike B, I'd like to compliment you on the accuracy and clearness of your advice. I've not tried it yet, but I can easily tell you are experienced and a good "Talker". That is, you can clearly explain a complicated process to people in few words. Thank you for being a good guide on the internet. I hope you are still active since this was 2006.
 
  #30  
Old 04-12-10, 08:18 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 759
Thanks for the compliment, and yes I do try to stop by when I can, just to see if I can be of any assistance. Been working on RV's since 95', prior to that was in automotive trade for years. (since 1972) Actually just started back at an RV resort for the summer, 4th year there. Approx. 265 permanent sites with mostly 12ft x 40 ft models, and 60 or so towable sites. Needless to say, I stay pretty busy keeping them all up and running, so it does leave less time to get back here and help if I can. Run from site to site with my golf cart with deck and enclosure on the back, and full of parts and tools. Makes for a great summer though. Like to fix stuff, help people, and like to work outdoors. Everyday, is another adventure ! ha-ha.
 
  #31  
Old 04-28-10, 02:05 PM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 1
Any other ideas? I replaced the thermocouple and blew out all the gas lines with air. Pilot lights (manually) fine, but won't stay lit when I release the button. Norcold 323, ac/dc/gas in a tent trailer. Saw one of your earlier posts....dc doesn't have to be hooked up for a manual lighter, does it? Thanks, Ken
 
  #32  
Old 07-13-10, 04:48 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 2
Question Need some help

Have a Norcold 843 and it seems to work just fine on AC power but doesn't cool real great on LP. Had it serviced last Jan. The flame lights just fine and burns continuously but seems a bit "lazy". Is there any way to adjust or regulate the gas flow to get a good strong flame? Is there anything else I should be looking for? I'd appreciate any help.
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 05-04-11 at 09:51 AM. Reason: Email not allowed
  #33  
Old 07-15-10, 04:24 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 2
Fixed It

Okay, nobody out there helped me but I did some on-line research and the good folks at Dinosaur Electronics (Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.) gave me some suggestions. I removed the gas jet and burner tube (do not seperate from one another) and soaked them in denatured alcohol for a few hours and then cleaned them using an Xacto knife and air dried with low-pressure air. Make no attempt to drill out or dig into the gas jet; I just cleaned the rust and junk accumulation around the burner tube slots. When all was dry I reinstalled and got a good strong flame and all is well again. I'm kind of upset that the dealer who serviced the unit in January did such a lousy job and obviously made no attempt to clean the burner tube and jet.
 
  #34  
Old 08-18-10, 02:56 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 1
Exclamation Norcold 682 not cooling

I have a norcold 682 refridgerator the ac side doesn't work & the LP side was working until this morning (08/17/10) the burner is lit but freezer is barely cold & fridge isn't cold @ all I've been fighting with this thing for awhile now working off & on i'm about ready to use it for Target practice can someone please help I'm tired of almost losing food.

thanks in advance
DaniD
 
  #35  
Old 09-12-10, 06:47 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: us
Posts: 1
Question Also need help with norcold refer.

I bought a 1990 motorhome a few months back and i have finally gotton a chance to try the ref on gas.It worked great on electric through the summer.I cleaned the burner tube which was very dirty but it still will not stay lite for more than 25 seconds.I can not find what model it is it just says norcold on the top front panel.There is a switch that turns it from electric to gas and a light that inducate that its on.When I flip the switch to gas I can hear it lighting but then it shuts of and the light says check.The electric igniter seems to work but there is no thermalcoupler like older ones that I have used. It des light but only for a few seconds .Where do I start checking? The former owner said he never used it with gas but the kid was not all that honest about alot of things about the unit.But so far everything has been a fairly easy fix,it sat for most of of its life with only 44000 miles on
 
  #36  
Old 09-21-10, 08:37 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ann Arbor
Posts: 7
How old is your refrigerator? It sounds like you simply have a weak flame which would be caused by the Burner/Orifice. If it's not a weak flame issue then it has to do with either the ambient temperature outside or your spiral baffle (a baffle that hangs in the flu to keep the heat at the bottom).
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 05-04-11 at 09:48 AM. Reason: Link removed. Advertising and soliciting not allowed.
  #37  
Old 09-21-10, 08:50 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ann Arbor
Posts: 7
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Gary Ny View Post
I bought a 1990 motorhome a few months back and i have finally gotton a chance to try the ref on gas.It worked great on electric through the summer.I cleaned the burner tube which was very dirty but it still will not stay lite for more than 25 seconds.I can not find what model it is it just says norcold on the top front panel.There is a switch that turns it from electric to gas and a light that inducate that its on.When I flip the switch to gas I can hear it lighting but then it shuts of and the light says check.The electric igniter seems to work but there is no thermalcoupler like older ones that I have used. It des light but only for a few seconds .Where do I start checking? The former owner said he never used it with gas but the kid was not all that honest about alot of things about the unit.But so far everything has been a fairly easy fix,it sat for most of of its life with only 44000 miles on
Gary NY,

Does the electrode continue to spark after the flame is already lit? If so it sounds like you have a bad power board (depending on what model you have). There should be a tag inside the refrigerator on the right hand side with the model and serial number posted. Do you know the size of the unit and whether or not it's manual or automatic? If you have a manual unit then your problem is most likely with a connection at the top of the refrigerator, bad wires leading to your selector switch, or a bad selector switch.
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 05-04-11 at 09:49 AM. Reason: Link removed. Advertising and soliciting not allowed.
  #38  
Old 09-21-10, 09:04 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ann Arbor
Posts: 7
Originally Posted by DaniD View Post
I have a norcold 682 refridgerator the ac side doesn't work & the LP side was working until this morning (08/17/10) the burner is lit but freezer is barely cold & fridge isn't cold @ all I've been fighting with this thing for awhile now working off & on i'm about ready to use it for Target practice can someone please help I'm tired of almost losing food.

thanks in advance
DaniD

This sounds like an ambient temperature problem. If you flame is staying lit and you're absolutely positive, then it should cool the exact same as it does on AC. The refrigerator cooling unit has no idea how it gets the heat to create the cooling process. On gas, however, because it's a direct flame it generates more heat and when it's also very hot outside (85+) there isn't enough airflow to create the condensation necessary. It wouldn't hurt to install an external fan to help with airflow. I would also recommend removing your vent covers to help cool things down.
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 05-04-11 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Link removed. Advertising and soliciting not allowed.
  #39  
Old 10-01-10, 11:34 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 2
Norcold 682 issues...

Hi,

I've got an issue with a Norcold 682, sounds similar to something on this thread, wondering if anyone has found a solution. The facts:

RV is level. Ambient temperature 55-75. Humidity 50%.
The unit works on LP, but only when switched to High Humidity.
On "Normal Operation", AC, LP and the interior light do not work.
Does not work on AC, even though plugged in and 12v, 120AC is present.
When AC wired directly to the 120V element, it cools wonderfully. However, this bypasses the thermostat and switches.
Fuses look good.

Any idea what component might be bad?

Thanks.
 
  #40  
Old 10-14-10, 05:57 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: US
Posts: 1
Question Norcold - RV has been sitting unlevel for 5 days

Is that why the fridge stopped working and is there a fix?
 
Closed Thread

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes