Please help I need info long read but it my notes too!

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  #1  
Old 01-25-05, 09:27 PM
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Please help I need info long read but it my notes too!

What do I do? I took my truck to a shop thinking I had a hose leaking, a high pressure hose. The owner called and said I had a intake manifold gasket go bad. I said Ok what is that
going to run me? he replied to change gasket and to change the oil it because water would get in it would be 275.00 I agreed and he said it will be ready the next day. He'll called when ready. great no problem. we'll he called next day and say's it's ready, I get there and he show's me the bad gasket and how it's a bad design on Chevy part. also it needed a distributor cap and rotor I said no problem it needed it at 119,000 miles. Now the total is 419.10 (look at bill and he rights it up 275.00 labor not total like he said first day 134.67 parts 9.43 tax) I asked did he change the oil he said no it didn't need it, it looked fine no water in it. and it is scribbled out on service ticket under repair order and parts. That struck me kinda odd with job he did plus I thought If you removed intake you would change the oil regardless of problem, because of thing could fall in motor ect. not to mention the water. I even looked at it
and it looked ok. Now two days later I go to start it and weird noise I think exhaust right under motor because I can't here my duals out the rear it sounds like my exhaust came apart under the front of the motor I shut it off and thought I would change the oil in the morning and find real problem because it's late and prayed it not that bad hopefully a new change of Mobil 1
5-W30 would help. Next morning I change oil out and start. wham it's rattling under valve cover a lifter. I shut it off and call the owner and asked him would he come by and look at it
because I am scared to start it again to drive to him. shop is less than two miles away, He
says secretary not there can't leave now but to call him back at 5:30 so he doesn't forget
and he will come buy.I said noproblem take his time. I call at 5:30 no answer I leave message
just a reminder. I wait ten min. call back and he answer I said just a reminder you said too call you I said take your time no hurry I'll be home thanks he said ok well hour and a half later
which is still not a problem, I just want good news about a fix. A young man shows up to look at it not owner who I have been dealing with. He says fire it up ok ok yea it's a lifter. asked me what oil I used? I replied Mobil 1 he says ok what weight I said 5-w30 he replies that's
kinda thin down here it the south. I said not at all come on dude. couldn't their have been water in that oil? No no oil turns milky with any water in it and it looked fine! I didn't know what to say. He says it's ok to drive but just to shop it's not internal, like a rod or piston.
What do I do? I don't want to drive it and he's talking all this repair at my cost. here are my questions!
1) What does repair call for about changing the oil? just as he wrote it up and said on phone it would need it.
2) I agree that oil turns milky color with water in it, but does Mobil 1? It didn't dawn on me till he left about it being synthic oil. So I took oil dump pan and drain into bucket it has some milky oil in it from old oil changes that would not completely drain out of container at auto zone, not my truck. Well when in bucket now you can't see any of that water or milky oil. it's back to back Mobil 1. Like they seen when they checked and I checked you can't tell. I even took a cup full out and mixed with two part water and antifreeze and mixed well again can't tell
with Mobil 1 being black. that was more water and antifreeze than Mobil 1. way more than enough water to ruin my motor to only alittle oil and could easily miss it checking dip stick
not to mention if that water was in five quarts.

I am kinda rushing cause it's late and want to here from ya'll before I talk with him in morning.
What should I do? please help! thank you Eric

opps it's a 97 chevy 1500 silverado with 350 motor
 
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  #2  
Old 01-25-05, 11:42 PM
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WHOOEEE.. that's a bit rambling but I'll try. I've heard of a lot of Chevy bottom end failures after intake gasket replacement. These have usually been attributed to using Roloc discs to clean up the surfaces without adequate protection/clean-up. Removing the oil pan and inspecting the pick-up tube may show a restriction on the pick-up screen.

Sorry, I don't see any magic bullets.
 
  #3  
Old 01-26-05, 03:33 AM
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the oil should of been changed before starting the engine after the repair was made it should be standard procedure for any shop after they had removed the intake.
that being said if its just a lifter making noise there is really no way of knowing if it just happened or was related to the repair its not uncommon for lifter that is not oiling good to clean up and quit making noise there is even additives such as rislone that can help get oil back to the lifter that is making noise.
if the person who came and listened to the vehicle was correct about it just being a lifter and it doesnt have oil pressure problems then it shouldnt be a problem driving the vehicle to the shop.
 
  #4  
Old 01-31-05, 10:28 AM
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Location: Ontario
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i agree if in my shop a repair like this was done oil change would have been manditory if it is a lifter as bejay said it may be abel to be freed up by an engine flush and another oi change as to the 5- 30 i live in Canada and i try not to use it i do find it to thin only in extream cold would i use it
but that is just my opinion
 
  #5  
Old 02-02-05, 10:35 AM
Big Jim
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Sounds like most info is correct, lifter is not pumped up or adjusted properly, after a job like this I usually readjust rocker arms if it is knocking. This is done by loosening nut on rocker arm to get the oil to flow and pump up lifter and then slowly tighten it until tapping noise stops then 1/4 turn more. A manual will tell you about this, oh by the way this is done while the engine is running with the valve cover off.
 
  #6  
Old 02-04-05, 06:21 PM
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I'll bet the intake bolts were tightened way past 11 lb/ft of torque also distorting the bearing journals.The Rolocs are a no no because you are introducing abrasive material into the crankcase and I have seen immediate failures due to the use of them.In most good shops you would be fired for using one in that application where the (dust) may enter the lubrication system.The oil should have been changed because you can't do intake gaskets on that engine without some coolant entering the oiling system.Your oil mixing test was most likely done with unheated,combustion gases free,unmixed by an oil pump ingredients so I don't hold much faith in that aspect of your diagnosis.If it is a lifter problem the fault may be theirs due to poor workmanship/cleanliness.
 
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