'92 Ford Ranger Brake Warning Lights

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  #1  
Old 02-22-05, 12:40 PM
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'92 Ford Ranger Brake Warning Lights

After a particularly cold and snowy week , both my rear anti-lock and regular brake warning lights came on & stayed on.

I checked the master cylinder for low or dropping fluid level but everything seems OK there. There didn't seem to be any difference in brake performance so I waited until the weather warmed up a bit and took the truck to a car wash, thinking that maybe I had some snow, ice or salt gumming up the brake works. No dice ... lights still on.

Any ideas?
 
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  #2  
Old 02-22-05, 10:23 PM
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First guess is a problem with the base brake system.... anything that will turn on the red light will turn on the yellow light "in sympathy".

If the pedal feels normal, check the e-brake switch for a short (or stuck down pedal), the float in the master cylinder (they can stick in the down position) and the level sensor for problems.

I would also check the rear brake adjustment ( a long shot) and if the rear wheel cylinders are siezed.

HTH.
 
  #3  
Old 02-23-05, 04:34 AM
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Thanks for the pointers Jim

I'll take a look at all you suggested. BTW, I was going to pick up one of those cheap code readers from Canadian Tire. Do you think it will tell me anything? Are they worth the money ($50)?

Chris
 
  #4  
Old 02-24-05, 01:20 AM
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The cheap code readers are usually only good for generic OBD2 codes... strictly engine emissions related stuff. A lot of DIYers will go for these mostly on price firmly believeng that they can read anything that turns on a light can be had from these little money wasters. If all you're after is engine running concerns, they might be OK...

With your ABS related problem (and many others you may encounter on your vehicle), you will need something that can read "proprietary codes". OBD2 being generic is a must.... SAE came up with a formula and EPA enforces it (roughly speaking).... but for anything not related to emissions, the manufacturers are having a field day.

Going beyond proprietary codes (and forgive me for getting windy but this is a windy subject).... we have PID (parameter indication data) data - bring more money... active command mode - bring even more money..... Mode 6 data retrieval - not sure but I think it equals sell your first born....

Our Ford tools are in a state of flux... In the interim I have considered the AutoTap system (I hesitate to post a link). It's a lot spendier than what you are considering but I will quote the woodworking newsgroup... "better to buy a good tool and only cry once....".

HTH
 
  #5  
Old 02-24-05, 10:12 AM
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A-Men
the Mechanic is corect if you want to do it you got to spend it
 
  #6  
Old 02-24-05, 01:48 PM
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Thanks guys
 
  #7  
Old 03-03-05, 04:26 PM
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Update on Brake Warning Lights

It has been too snowy & cold around here for me to do a thorough inspection but I did manage to find a broken spring attached at one end to what looks to be the emergency brake cable sheathing.

I don't know what the other end is supposed to be attached to but after a buddy of mine & I poked around & tugged on the e-brake cables, the warning lights went out the next time I started the truck. (they came back on again after about 5 minutes) Maybe a clue?

All the brakes appear to be working fine, including the e-brake. Note: there is an identical looking spring connecting the e-brake cable from the pedal to the driver's side rear brake drum. The broken spring is in the same area and as I said, connected at one end to the sheathing of the cable, I think leading to the passenger side of the vehicle.

What is the broken spring supposed to be connected to?
 
  #8  
Old 03-06-05, 11:07 PM
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you should have the codes read in the abs system whether you take it to a shop or do it yourself you do not need a code reader to read the abs codes all you need is a jumper wire to momentarily ground the black and orange single wire diagnostic connector under the drivers side dash and then count the flashes of the antilock light.
once you locate the test connector start the engine and dont attempt to check codes until the antilock light has come on once the light has come on do not shut the engine off until you have read the codes by grounding the black orange wire under the dash for a second then your abs light will start flashing a code count the flashes to get the abs code.
most early model ford rear antilock systems does not have a memory which is why you cannot shut off the engine until you have read the code, I think it was 1993 ford added the ability of storing a code but just incase yours has it, there will be a keep alive battery feed wire connected to the test connector which you will have to unplug to ground the test connector if you unplug this wire with the ignition in the off position you will lose any code that may have been stored so always turn the key on first then unplug keep alive feed wire and ground test connector for a second and any code stored should flash on the antilock light.
 
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