Help with cabover

Old 10-01-05, 01:35 PM
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Help with cabover

I have a tioga class c rv and have a bad leak at the cabover section. I saw that the fiberglass is cracked and that the side rails are rusty. Any suggestions where I can get new side rails and if possible oversized rails. Also any suggestions with rebuilding the cabover section. Thank you
Old 10-05-05, 02:20 PM
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re: Help with cabover

I'm a week or so into my cabover rebuild on my 83 Tioga C. I had a leak from the joint between the metal roof and the fiberglass nose cap over the window on the passenger side. It appeared first as a wet spot in the forward right corner of the ceiling of the bunk, but the more I got into it, the more I found. I've stripped the ceiling, sidewalls and bunk deck out of the cabover, as well as the front and side windows, and am just now beginning the process of putting things back. I bought the wall and ceiling insulation and the plywood for the bunk deck at the local home center. I've not started searching for the ceiling and wall paneling yet, but I saw on the forums at that it should be available from an RV repair facility. I'm going to start calling soon.
Good luck!
Old 10-06-05, 02:36 PM
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Not to burst you bubble here pal but on an 83 I would be very surprised if the paneling were still available. The patterns used by RV manufacturers goes into and out of production in just a few years usually. The stuff you can get from your local home center is no differnt other than the pattern. find a pattern you like and go with it. You will want to have an undammaged piece salvaged from your project if possible to compare thickness and pattern in the store. It will also likely cost you far less at a home center than an RV shop.
Side rails? are you referring to the trim that coverd the seam between the sidewall and the roof and sidewall/ cabover? That stuff is still in production in one form or another that may or may not match exactly. That you would have to go through a RV shop or RV salvage type shop to get. Remember though it may cost more to get some prebent to fit your cabover BUT if you try to bend the straight stuff you will have a hard time getting the insert screw cover into the molding and if it has the "long leg" the leg that hangs over to cover the sidewall edge will ripple. The longer the leg the more it will ripple. You may be able to get something prebent close and just go with it as that will require less hand bending. Thus less rippleing and the insert will go in easier.
Dont forget your sealant! "Tacky Tape" under your moldings and silicone at the edges. Takcy tape is like a regular putty tape but is kinda sticky.. (If I remember correctly it is actually a polybutlyene) It is a no no on metal sided units but works well on glass wall units.
its hard to get into real specifics without actually checking out the unit. As a service tech I get pre fabed front walls and cab over floors when I do this kind of repair.
Do however take pleanty of digital pictures if possible before diving in and taking things apart. They will prove worth their weight in gold later. Mark any wires you have to cut or pull out...(Dont get shocked! disconnect the battery and unplug the unit before tearing into this kind of repair) Masking tape with a number system or whatever you feel you can remember with works good. I have even numbered wires and then wrote down on paper what that number wire goes to and what way it was routed. The fiberglass on the front wall is very thin handle it gingerly if you intend to reuse it.. The stuff cracks without any real warning. hope this helps.. if you need more info I will try and help if I can.

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