Four winds trailer.. fridge and water ?'s

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  #1  
Old 08-05-07, 06:19 PM
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Four winds trailer.. fridge and water ?'s

I just bought a 2001 Four Winds ultralite travel trailer, and when we took it out to use it this weekend the Norcold fridge didn't work. When you turn it to auto, it should run on ac current if it's plugged in, but it immediately switches to lp operation. SO, we decided we would just go ahead and use it with the lp, but it won't start that way either. The check light comes on and stays lit, and you can't hear it trying to ignite. I don't think the solenoid opening the gas valve has power going to it. What would affect both systems? Breakers and fuses are fine and it has a brand new 12 volt battery in it.

Also, when we went to dump it, the black water would not empty. The handle pulls out but there is no flow. Can anyone give me any suggestions?
 
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  #2  
Old 08-06-07, 06:01 AM
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First of all, check link below to see if your fridge falls into the recall listed. If it does fall into the recall, don't use it until it's been fixed.Did you check the receptacle that the fridge is plugged into, to confirm there is hydro to it? Did you take a voltage reading (DC volts) at the 2 terminals behind the fridge (inside, the outside vent cover) to make sure you have at least 12 volts DC. Check elsewhere for fuses also, such as beside your control box on the back of fridge, or under the cover of the control box, if that's the style you have. Make sure all connections at the back of fridge are clean. Sometimes it's as simple as pulling them off with needlenose pliers, and putting them back on, will help clean the contact. Check these things, and get back to us with model & serial number if you can. It should be located inside the fridge, or on the edge of the door or inside somewhere.


http://www.norcold.com/HOME/CUSTOMERSUPPORT/RecallInfo/tabid/264/Default.aspx
 
  #3  
Old 08-06-07, 07:13 AM
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Thanks for the link. I'll check the numbers asap and post them.
I could not find any fuses or relays on the back of the refrigerator. If they are under or inside the control box, I didn't remove it as I wasn't sure what I might find.
 
  #4  
Old 08-06-07, 06:40 PM
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Ok, I did get 12 volts at the connection going in to the system. The model number is 6052.
Serial number is 807220BT

The number on the cooling unit does not match any of the recall numbers.
 
  #5  
Old 08-11-07, 04:26 AM
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Do you have any electrical experience with this type of thing ? Not being sarcastic, just like to know before I try to help you troubleshoot this thing.
You did actually reach up behind the fridge from outside where the vent, or back of the fridge is, and plug something into the receptacle (tester or another electrial appliance like a drill or something) to be sure you have hydro supply at the receptacle that the fridge is currently plugged into, right?
If it's easier, unplug the fridge and connect it to an extension cord that is plugged in to a known good receptacle & try that. If you put it on auto, and it now goes to AC operation mode, then you found the problem for that part of the fridge.
Before I start you off on a way to confirm that the fridge is even worth fixing, and to be sure the cooling unit is working,which will determine whether to proceed with trying to fix it, I need you to answer these questions. There is a simple way to bypass all your controls & test the fridge cooling unit, but I need to know if your ready, or if you have a friend who knows a little about electricity 120 VAC (hydro), not 12 volt DC., who can safely help you.
 
  #6  
Old 08-12-07, 04:44 AM
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Sorry, I was concentrating on your fridge and forgot you have a black tank issue too. Are you sure you have debris in the black tank, or is it just because the gauge is reading full, 1/2 full etc., that you ask that question. The reason I'm asking is that it is not unusual for gauges, especially on the black tank, to read 1/4, 1/2 or whatever, and be empty, as toilet paper gets caught on the probes & gives you a false reading. I hate to say it, but a look down with flap open on toilet & a flashlight may be necessary to confirm.


good luck
 
  #7  
Old 08-13-07, 11:36 AM
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Thanks Mike,
Yes, I tried plugging the fridge in to an extension cord and got the same result. I tested the outlet it was plugged in to in the trailer and it was working fine. There is no ammonia smell or signs of yellow or green powder around the unit.

The black water tank reads 1/2 full, but I know it won't dump because we used it and when I went to dump it nothing come out.

Anyway, I took it in over the weekend and they'll be looking at it this week. I'll post the results. Thanks for your help.

By the way, I can troubleshoot most electrical appliances, but we just bought this trailer and I know nothing about how these dual units work so I thought taking it in would be my best bet. As time goes by maybe I'll learn a little more about it.
 
  #8  
Old 08-15-07, 08:09 AM
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Ok. Black water was dried up inside and required a chemical cleaning. I suspect the previous owner left the valve open while hooked up to a sewer line and just allowed it to dry out.

The refrigerator had a blown 5 amp fuse in the back. Wow, I wish I had taken some of the covers off back there...I'll know next time. Anyway, thanks for the responses.
 
  #9  
Old 08-17-07, 05:56 PM
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Good news, thanks for getting back to us.

Mike
 
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