1999 chevy S10 - Driveshaft ?


Old 04-21-08, 08:52 AM
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Question 1999 chevy S10 - Driveshaft ?


Have a 1999 S10 pick up 4.3L 6 cyl short box (not an extreme)
Re: To replace the rear driveshaft - think its called the constant velocity joint ....can we have the old one pressed out at a machine shop and a new joint installed then re-pressed back in was just wondering if anyone has ever done this?

Also if you can just purchase the velocity joint, GM dealer said you cant and I have to purchase the whole deal at a cost of ($1500)....
We called a local auto wreckers and they apparently send it out and have this done, just trying to cut out the middle man to save some money, yet we cant locate the part. Any help or input is greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-21-08, 10:42 AM
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Here's some info:


I have NO idea what the dealer is talking about. Sounds as though you are describing a simple U-joint replacment, which can often be done with simple hand tools and a bench vise. I even had to do one on my wrecker under a bridge on the interstate a couple of years ago using a big hammer and some large sockets.

Less than $20 for a u-joint:


Or possibly there's a problem with what part(s) we're talking about?
Old 04-22-08, 07:43 AM
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Link to Photos

Hi Tow Guy
Thanks for your reply, I went on the links you provided and they are not the same part as what is on the truck, ours is different. When I went further and looked on the parts page the parts are not available?

Maybe easier for me to just post pics....as hubby finding it hard to explain .(new to this so ignore the peeling paint pic lol)

Old 04-22-08, 09:00 PM
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i think part of the confusion, at least, on my behalf, is that you used front drive vehicle terminology for a rear wheel drive solid axle vehicle.
so, you do not have constant velocity joint. you have, looking at the photos - very kind of you to post them - a double cardan driveshaft, with U-joints and slip yoke going into transmission.
at this point, i am not sure what you are trying to accomplish. but indeed, the whole assembly can be disassembled, without pressing anything out or in. U-joints are usually attached to yokes with locking snap rings; you start on one end and disassemble it, then the rest just slides out of splines and you can complete disassembly in a vise or such. i believe you start with disconnecting driveshaft from differential. i have ford ranger and it looks exactly the same way, slight variation in lengthes etc. any reapir manual should guide you how to disassemble the driveshaft down to minute pieces.
i'd not be buying any of those parts at stealership, junkayards are for those. keep in mind, driveshaft has to be balanced. i reckon that's what parts store was telling you in means of buying the whole piece - it is assembled and then balanced, with weights welded in place. i don't think you can mix and match them.
Old 04-23-08, 08:56 AM
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Thankyou for the reply, we took it to a local garage and they are going to take it apart, so far it looks to be a crack in the u-joint near the hanger, my husband had talked to different people who had changed the complete driveshaft to a solid piece which we did not want to do. Hopefully this will correct the vibration in the seat problem.

P.S Your welcome for the photos, i figured if someone saw what I was trying to explain being female and all I may get a positive answer, I dont know how mechanics on a daily basis crawl underneath vehicles, just by taking those pictures, I think I will stick to my regular job and to being a housewife! LOL
Thanks again
Old 04-27-08, 01:40 PM
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in the 70's gm called those constant velocity drive shafts.
those are a little more difficult for a home diy but not impossible. as a lot of them also have a spring in the middle that has to be compressed just to be able to install the last u-joint.
i just replaced u-joint and carrier bearing on a mazda pu for a friend from church and the only place we could get the correct carrier bearing was the dealer all of the others had the wrong size center bearing.
Murphy was an optimist
Old 04-27-08, 08:04 PM
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Cracked U-Joint it was..

Thanks for the information.
We took it to a garage last friday it was a cracked u-joint the u-joint part was $22 and labour was just less than $60 beats the original quote to replace the whole thing at the dealer, its good to shop around and explore all the options i guess.
Thanks again, this forum always comes through, its the first place I turn too for help.

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