1992 chevy conversion van -diff oil seal

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  #1  
Old 09-20-08, 07:31 AM
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1992 chevy conversion van -diff oil seal

Can someone please advise proceedure for replacing front oil seal in diff?
Would there be a reason for it to start leaking other than just excessive wear, van has done 119,000mls. van is G20 5.7L
Thanks
 

Last edited by tiara; 09-20-08 at 07:34 AM. Reason: missed G20 model
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  #2  
Old 09-20-08, 09:53 AM
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The differential casing is vented and the vent may have gotten plugged..... but probably isn't the problem. The normal wear/drying out is a more likelihood. I would check the vent to make sure it's clear. If the pinion yoke (rear ujoint thing) is tight in the differential casing = bearing probably ok, you could try some seal conditioner. That may take care of it.

Another possibility for the cause would be a rear pinion bearing going out. But those have to go a long way out to cause that type of leakage and you would have other indications of the bearing failure.

To replace the seal you would take out the yoke, pry out the seal, and install the other one. You would set the reinstall torque values of the nut to the original torque. This makes it sound a little easier than it actually is, but that's about all you do.

Getting the pinion nut off can be an enlightening experience. Then getting the seal out isn't too bad, but getting the other one installed without crushing it ends your wondering about why those shops get so much money.

Here is a link to tell you all about it:

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c1528006c903
 
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Old 09-20-08, 03:14 PM
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Thanks, are you able to also tell me difference between Semi & full floating axle, what is my van likely to have (1992 Chevrolet G20 Van 5.7 litre. VIN: 1GBEG25KIN7110999).
Would there be a listed torque setting for nut on reistall or must I just try & check prior to removal and try to match that on reinstall (could be tricky?) Link was good too, thanks!
 
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Old 09-20-08, 05:13 PM
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The torque thing isn't tricky. All you do is, with a torque wrench in hand, mark the nuts' location on the pinion with a reference mark, then back the nut off about 5 or 6 degrees, then tighten the nut back to its original location. When you hit that point, check the torque on the wrench. Use that torque setting to reinstall. It's a good idea to count the exposed threads on the pinion before taking the nut off so you know when you're getting close to the original location. On a chevy the torque on the pinion nut is compressing a little sleeve looking affair. That little jobby spaces the pinion bearings = very important.

Since you're using the old spacer, better do it this way - it's isn't hard.

The floating - semi floating thing has to do with the axle shaft. A full floater is splined on both ends - end that goes into the differential gear and the end that goes into a hub for driving the wheel. A semi floater has a fixed hub and is splined on the differential end. It all has to do with whether one bears load or not. If you took off the wheel/hub cap so you could see the hub (with the wheel studs in it) you could tell is it was molded to the axle or not.

Either that or just call a dealer - I don't know about that particular one myself - sorry.
 
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Old 09-20-08, 06:38 PM
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Thanks for your help.
Is the diff vent on the top, I guess I should also check that this is not blocked?
 
  #6  
Old 09-20-08, 07:57 PM
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Yeah the little vent thing sometimes sits right on top of the differential - those are little button affairs with a small metal cap.

More common, though is a vent that has a tube attached to get the venting up out of road dirt and high water. They normally have a hook shaped tube made out of neoprene. Then the hook hangs up in the frame somewhere. To check it, just get up there, wipe it off, and blow in it (yummy).

It's better to check those - just a matter of covering the bases. I've never seen leakage because of one blocked, though.

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Old 09-20-08, 08:02 PM
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very seldom that a van will have full floating axle. most are semi. but look on the axle end if full floating it will have small nuts and studs or bolts on the end of the axle that don't hold the wheel on.

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  #8  
Old 09-21-08, 02:17 AM
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It is very rare to see a G-20 van rear end to be full floating majorty are semi floating but on G-30 yes.,, they are full floating with standard 8 lug pattern

To replace the seal as one guy above he describing it It can be a doable if have proper tool and make sure you have very good jack stand to support your vechile the G-20 typcially weight about 5500~6500 LBS { 2500~2950 KG }

You may want to deal with someone to hire { rent } impact wrench to get the nut off from the yoke but once the nut is off the yoke should slide off without much diffuctally and replace the seal but to put the yoke back on but you will need to check the clearance and backlash due some of the rear end do have crushed washer so they are one time deal.

But really before you start this please read the service manual carefully so you can understand the prodcures on this one.

If need more question Just holler here someone here will help ya with more directions.

Merci,Marc
 
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