Camper Furnace Help Please !

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  #1  
Old 09-29-09, 12:27 PM
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Camper Furnace Help Please !

i have a 1996 Fleetwood Savannah fifth wheel camper. the furnace recently stopped working properly.the fan comes on but the unit does not ignite and produce heat.so far,from searching online,i have narrowed it down to the sail switch,limit switch,circuit board, or any combination there of. my question is...where is the limit switch located? it is a Atwood Excalibur 8500-III Series furnace.the two switches are inexpensive enough that i'm just gonna go ahead an replace them the start with. i cant find anything online that will show me the location of the limit switch and possibly the replacement procedures. any help is greatly appreciated !!!
 
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Old 09-29-09, 03:07 PM
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You might repost this on the oil amd gas furnaces thread.

Any limit, operating, or fan disc type switch that has 2 wires can easily be checked for continuity with a volt-ohm meter set to ohms. if full continuity, it is good.

Does the fan just keep running and never shuts off, or does the fan only come on when the stat calls for heat?

And is the fan we are talking about the fan that blows out air into the camper for comfort?

Is the stat an on the heater?, or on the wall?, and does turning up the stat make the fan come on?, and if you turn down the stat does the fan shut off?

What kind of igntion does this have?
 
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Old 09-29-09, 04:34 PM
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so far the fan just keeps running...i believe because its not reaching temperature an being told to shut off. i have not let it run longer than 4 or 5 minutes before manually turning the system off via the thermostat/control switch that is mounted on the interior wall.if i turn the switch from OFF to HEAT the fan comes on to purge the chamber before ignition attempt. the fan i'm referring to is the blower fan attached to the furnace.i have not tried lowering the the temperature to see if the fan would turn off on its own,i always end up turning switch from HEAT to OFF. the ignition system is DSI...direct spark ignition.
 
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Old 10-06-09, 07:25 AM
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furnace

Mine acted about the same way and it was the "time delay relay" google "trouble shooting Atwood furnace" that is how I figured mine out. Part was about $30.
 
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Old 10-06-09, 04:49 PM
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ok....thank you for the knowledge and info !!!
 
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Old 10-26-09, 07:04 PM
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The easiest way to diagnose that is with a 12 volt DC test light, available at any hardware store or autoparts store for around $5.
Your high limit switch is way in back, usually very hard to see if you can see it at all from outside the vehicle where I assume your working from. Here's an easy test. Look where the 2 wires go into sail switch. One will be blue, the other will be white. Take test light and clamp ground to metal, on furnace somewhere easy & out of way. Now start furnace, and poke blue wire going to sail switch, test light should light up. If it does, now poke white wire, and it should light up as well, if not, sail switch no good. If light lights up on white as well, sail switch is good. Now, that white wire feeds 12 volts to high limit switch, way in the back, but the wire coming back from other side of high limit switch which is also white, should light up as well, and that wire is connected to the 4 wire connector on your ignition module/control. So if you poke the white wire going into the connector on module, and it has power, high limit switch is good, if not, high limit switch is faulty. Make sure you check the circuit breaker and switch for 12 + volts in and out, as in both wires attached to them both light up the test light. Here's a link to wiring schematic for reference. See page 5 of PDF file. Good Luck. Hope this helps. P.S. you can use a multimeter as well, I just find it easier with test light, and remember, get point in center of wire , up against something, and push hard enough to pierce into wire., but keep fingers back, and make sure your not close to fan/blower or anything that you may hit if it does slip when you push.
 
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Old 10-26-09, 07:12 PM
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P.S. do you hear any clicking when furnace first starts up & starting to go through ignition phase? After fan/blower first starts, give it a few seconds and you should hear the clicking.You should hear a louder click, then a bunch of light clicks same time or right after louder one.
 
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Old 10-27-09, 05:29 PM
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no,i dont hear it clicking as when its trying to ignite. thats the first thing i listen for. so far i'm gonna replace the limit switch and the sale switch mainly because they are inexpensive and fairly easy to replace.still not exactly sure where the limit switch is located,but i have a month or so before i'll actually be able to work on it again so i have time to search the whereabouts of it online. i would typically hear it click 3-5 times then the woooosh as the burner ignited. no clicks now,therefore no wooosh. lol
 
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Old 10-31-09, 06:27 AM
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That's a fair amount of work, when a simple test with a multimeter or test light will tell you for sure, as well as the fact that replacing those 2 items, may not be your problem?
If you tell me the order & color of wires in the 4 wire connector on DSI board (control) , I can tell you what to check , real easy there, to see if it's a part malfunction, or the board.
 
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Old 11-03-09, 01:55 AM
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it will be a few days before i get to the camper,but i will make a note of what the wire colors are and what order they are in. all i have is a 12V test light.i do not have a multi meter
 
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Old 12-22-09, 03:43 PM
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hello Mike B.

are you still willing to help me with the wire colors an such? i apologize for not getting the wire colors and order yet. the last couple months have been rough an very dis-heartening for me and my family. if you are still willing to help,i would greatly appreciate it !

Aaron
 
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Old 12-29-09, 04:44 AM
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Sorry about getting back late, just assumed problem was fixed. Sorry to hear you were/are having problems. Take your time, and I'll check back for any response from you periodically, and do what I can to help you. Take care.
 
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Old 01-08-10, 04:34 PM
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hello Mike B. ,

i finally made it to my fathers where the camper is...i had to load up my snow blower and snowblow a path to and around the camper so i could get to it. lol . the wires and order in which they appear on the 4 wire connector are as follows... yellow black red white in that order from left to right. i have a cell phone picture if that would help but the clarity isnt the greatest since it was taken in the dark tonight.
 
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Old 01-09-10, 06:20 PM
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Note: this is all done, outside the unit, with cover off, looking at furnace. If you take a 12 volt test light, or multimeter, attach your ground clamp to metal on furnace, or even copper line for gas valve, and use that as your ground, then "poke" with pointed end of probe + into white wire going to connector on ignition board, and it shows 12 volts on meter , or test light, lights up, then your sail switch and high limit are o.k.
Remember, do this with furnace turned on, blower working, and be sure to poke it hard enough to penetrate coating and reach bare wire in center. If you think you know what I'm talking about,and have the tools to do it, get back to me, and I'll give more instructions on testing other areas.
 
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Old 01-10-10, 01:56 AM
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thank you <ike...i know exactly what you are talking about so far. i have a 12V test light. hopefully i can get back to my fathers in a day or two and run this little test.
 
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Old 01-10-10, 06:08 AM
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That's great. So here's some more info to take as well. First thing when you test it, check for power on both terminals of on/off switch, and look for a little push-in circuit breaker in there too, that has a white center, make sure you push in on it too, then test both terminals there to make sure power on both of them.
Next, You'll also see a red wire that goes across front of blower cover (black plastic,half rounded) from left side to right, and goes over to far right where gas valve is. That wire usually has a connection,(male to female spade connector) just before it goes into area where it attaches to gas valve. You can disconnect that there, or I prefer to touch my test light probe, on the terminal that it attaches to on the gas valve.(careful, don't touch side of probe on metal at same time) Either way, that will tell you if you have power going to gas valve but, the thing to remember when testing that, is that it will only show power when it's trying to ignite, and only momentarily, then a few seconds later it will show power again, when trying to ignite again. So you have to be ready with connection when furnace first starts. If furnace was igniting properly, that would show power constantly to keep gas valve open, but when it doesn't ignite, it shuts off for safety reasons, then tries again. If no flame (ignition) occurs, then it shuts gas valve down. After 2 or 3 attempts, if no ignition occurs, it has to be shut off and back on to start cycle all over again. One of the easiest ways without the tester, to make sure gas valve is getting power, is to listen real close by gas valve, and after blower starts up,and time delay is over, you should hear a click from it, and it should do it again, shortly after. That tells you that you have power going to it ,obviously. Something else that I will point out to you, is that some people mention the time delay relay, but I did not for the simple fact that if it was faulty, your fan (blower) wouldn't be running, so that tells me it's fine. I'm going to give you a link to read, copy for your own reference as it may come in handy now, or in the future. Keep me posted on your progress if you will. Also, if you can, send me those pictures you have, it may help me to see exactly what set-up you have, and better help you. My e-mail: [email protected] Here's that link:
Marksrv.com rv furnace troubleshooting
 
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Old 01-15-10, 09:38 PM
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Michigan hardwood floors

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Old 02-16-10, 12:45 PM
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Lightbulb Basic fixes for your furnace

I thought I'd add my experience for future DIY'ers.

I had a very similar problem with my furnace. Did not light.

I took the furnace out which is a very quick procedure. I check my voltages using the electrical diagram that was in the installation guide. All my switches and relays were working just fine but still no ignition. I check continuity and found no broken wires. I also checked the current at the thermostat as mentioned earlier in this string (good advice - thanks).

My furnace fix was too simple to be true. I found a loose grounding terminal. I took a pair of pliers and tightened the spade connector to the ignitor...bingo.

After all that work and investigation the solution was basic and simple and reminded me to stop looking for complicated fixes when simple ones usually solve the issue.

I hope this helps future trouble shooters.
 
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Old 04-25-10, 05:28 PM
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Hello,
any other suggestions? i still have a furnace that will not attempt to light. no clicking of the electronic ignition. i did run the test light diagnostics that Mike B. walked me thru,but i have been unable to get in touch with him as of this point in time so i'm unsure as to what the results of my tests mean.
 
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Old 05-12-10, 07:42 PM
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You may contact the company itself to get the problem solved.

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