1995 Dodge Dakota?

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Old 01-30-11, 09:53 PM
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1995 Dodge Dakota?

GFs mom has 1995 Dodge Dakota, 3.9l V-6, 145,000 give or take miles. Recently replaced thermostat due to truck taking ages to heat up, and poor heat output. After thermostat was replaced, the truck heats up better now, and has SLIGHTLY better heat, but not as warm as it should be. It has a temperature activated fan clutch. My question, would back flushing the heater core help any? The two hoses do have a temperature differential, but i don't know if that's because the core is clogged or not.

To replace the heater core of that truck ...yeah just no. If I were to use that Prestone Cooling system flush treatment would that help any?
 
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Old 01-31-11, 05:24 AM
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I would try the backflush first; cheap and relatively painless. Could have an air bubble, too. Has the system been opened or drained anytime recently for other that just the thermostat, i.e. water pump, lower rad hose, etc?

Also, have you checked the blend door to make sure you are getting full flow for "heat"?
 
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Old 01-31-11, 08:52 AM
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As far as air flow, when we change to heat, we can feel a lot of air come from what ever vent direction we have it set to. And no, the system has not been open for anything else other than the thermostat. The viscous thermostatically controlled radiator fan clutch couldn't be causing the problems could it, because it seems like the fan never stops sounding like a hurricane? Just some random ideas. Don't really have money to be throwing at it for a shop diagnostic test right now. I'll try the back flushing of the heater core next, see how that goes.
 
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Old 01-31-11, 09:23 AM
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Very likely the clutch is shot on the fan. I had a '96 and after a few years when it was cold, the fluid was too thick to disengage (I guess) and it would roar like crazy til it got some heat into it no matter what speed the engine was going or how fast I drove. Don't know whether it would really affect the heater though. At driving speed more air is being pushed through the rad than the fan would normally pull through.

IIRC you should be able to warm up the engine..then stop it and the fan should spin pretty freely. Could be wrong...I've read where it's completely engine speed related.
 
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Old 01-31-11, 09:50 PM
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No her fan will not freewheel when it's completely warmed up and you stop the engine. I almost want to ditch the fan clutch and install an electric fan kit. But it's expensive.
 
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Old 02-01-11, 12:22 PM
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The clutch fan is shot from your description. It should not sound like a hurricane unless the engine is very warm.

If you don't want to spend a lot for a new fan clutch, try a bone yard. A lot of the part store fans don't seem to last that long. Don't lay it down flat. The fluid can leak out.

For the heater core do the backflush like towguy says. It is quick and it does work. It's a common problem in Dakota's. It's probably an easier fix than using the flush which still doesn't backflush the core anyways.
 
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Old 02-01-11, 02:59 PM
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It doesen't matter what the clutch fan does.. The T-stat controls the minimum operating temp of the engine.. If it's O.K & you have -40 air going thru the rad, the t-stat will not open & keep the coolant circulating only in the engine & nothing thru the rad till operating temp is reached,,If the T-stat opens too soon & allows the cold coolant in the rad into the engine, you won't have heat... If this was an aftermarket t-stat, replace it with an OEM one & try it again... Roger
 
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Old 02-11-11, 06:06 AM
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I had real good luck with same issue on several Dodge Caravans by removing heater hoses at firewall and attaching a drill pump (about $10 at hardware store) with 2 pcs. of garden hose connected to heater core connections and flushing heater core with C.L.R. (also at hardware store) . I pumped CLR through core, in both directions simply by reversing hoses on pump, and having suction hoses and discharge going back in to CLR jug . (4.5 litre/I gallon) Did it at end of day, so that I could flush it, as well as pinch off discharge hose, make sure core was full, then pinch off both hoses and leave it overnight to soak, then give it another good flush as well as reverse before disconnecting and re-installing heater hoses. Had no heat at idle prior to this, but good heat at idle after. Less resistance to flow when calcium etc cleaned out of that core.
 
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