94 ford e150 van rear fan/cruise control problems

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  #1  
Old 02-21-12, 07:34 AM
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94 ford e150 van rear fan/cruise control problems

I have few problems I cant figure out.

Cruise control doesnt work. Had the factory recall done. The speed control deactivation switch that fastens to the master cylinder brake system replaced. Have had the clock spring in the steering replaced. Horn now works, still no cruise.

Rear fan for ac/heat has only worked a few times. Last time was right after I started engine and all climate controls were off, except had rear fan on high. All normal front climate controls appear to work properly (AC/heater/defrost/etc), but the lowest fan speed doesnt work in front. Of the 4 positions I assume lowest would be off then 3 variable speeds for the front fan. The highest and 2nd highest speeds do work.

Have had to replace transmission, radiator and starter. But the above problems were always there before making these repairs...

ABS dont work but I really dont mind. Has good stopping ability anyways. Thats the only warning light showing on the dash.

94 ford e150/302/auto
 
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  #2  
Old 02-21-12, 03:57 PM
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None of your issues may be related. Consider checking and changing out the blower motor resistor/module for the fan control issues. Not sure on yours but some are behind the battery. Also check for wire connection corrosion. For the cruise it could be many things but a bad brake pressure switch mounted on the master cylinder is a common problem with some Ford E trucks that stop the cruise control from activating.
 
  #3  
Old 02-22-12, 01:43 AM
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Thanks for the reply but I did have the brake pressure switch on the master cylinder changed because of major recall, fire hazard. Sorry on second thought the dealership only changed the harness that connects to it. But a few months after that I replaced the pressure switch itself because it had developed a small leak. I double checked the many fuses located in the harness part installed by the dealership also. I really thought changing the clock spring in the steering wheel was the case since horn didnt work also. It was faulty and did fix the horn issue. I know that both of these components are required for cruise to work. Kinda disappointed about it. Would it most likely be the servo unit, and how do I test it. hate replacing good parts.

The van shows no codes with my mechanic buddys scan tool (After replacing a cracked MAP sensor). Runs good now, but I have had to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets recently and the ignition coil. Replaced serpentine belt, a faulty idler pully, plugs, wires, fuel and air filters also. But the van sat in barn for over 10 years and has under 100,000 miles on it. Had a wheel chair lift in it that I removed. Therefore no center seats just rear bed/bench seat and front seats. I love the space for long trips. Original paint (after a couple of days or orbital buffing) looks like new paint. Interior not shabby either. Big problem is it sat for so long and moisture caused certian areas of the undercage a fair amount of corrotion, very uneven. Floor pan solid but lower down parts attached especially to the outer frame is most affected. I had to replate the frame that the steering box attachs to because the bolts were beginning to shear off.

Cruise control is so nice in a heavy van. even wind direction makes it difficult to maintain a constant speed. The van has the tow package with tailer brake controls also.

Now the rear fan/AC/heater are all located in a plasic box on the drivers side (left) in the very back. tubes send the air to the raised roof section just above the rear bench seat. Not like in many vans where the rear ac is located below the bench seat and blows out below the rear bench seat with the rear heater loacted to one side or the other in the middle of the van. Conversion vans have many different setups. Like I said the rear fan has worked ever since I bought the van around 3 years ago. Only like once every couple months. It even worked just a few days ago. but as soon as I turn the rear fan control off it will not come on again no matter what I do with the climate controls or connections I fiddle with. Then some time in the future it may just decide to run again, until the fan is turned off. Most of the wires entering the rear fan control switch show 12Vs, as long as the key is in the on position.

Its a huge cabin area to cool/heat with just front vents

I had to replace much of the suspension short of the springs.

I know it sounds like an awful lot wrong/ and or work with my purchase. but I only paid $500 for itand have done most of the work myself, and with a little help from a very good mechanic friend. Having transmission rebuilt. a front wheel alignment, and tire balancing, have been the only labor cost on this project. (I use the barter system for my friends labor).

I can R and R most anything. Problem solving is another thing. My friend has been very very ill lately and am not going to both him for any advice on these 2 trivial matters.

I see no way the 2 problems are related and probably have to do with some corroded connections. I do not think ABS has to work for cruise control to work. I have excellent brakes and dont care for ABS brakes (Or spending more money on them).

Only 2 minor things left to fix. I have just bought a repair manual for my van. Just hard for me to figure electric and vacuum diagrams.

I know, way to long, but details are important.

thanks again,

cannonwillow
 
  #4  
Old 02-22-12, 04:22 PM
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Welcome to the forum and with all your experience I hope you will stay around and post for others also where you can. This forum is all about helping people out. The front fan control is probably an issue with the blower motor resistor/module. Not knowing how your rear blower is wired it is always possible that it shares the same module as the front. That is still where I would start in regards to the blowers. These parts are pretty cheap as in probably $20 and might be worth replacing. I only say that because you also have a front blower issue at the same time as the rear. Another check point is to try and locate the ground connections and make sure they are not corroded. I believe that the blower resistor is tied into the ground on Fords. Troubleshooting is always about eliminating possible causes. On electrics it can be fun, but more often can be a real PITA. There is also of course the possibility that the rear blower motor is cooked and requires an R&R. If you hadn't mentioned about the front fan that would be something that I would have suggested but anyway at least you may want to test it by just applying 12volts directly to it.

A guess about your ABS is that one or more wheel speed sensors are corroded/contaminated with a truck as old as yours. Many here can help you with that also.

I would check for good grounds in regards to the cruise control also. Some older Fords however used vaccum lines and you can also check for vaccum, meaning eliminate collapsed hoses, and or disconnected ones. I don't know if yours uses vaccum or not. I googled diagnostics for Ford E truck cruise systems and there is one site that is very detailed in regards to a step by step approach to checking each component of the system if it comes to that. If you can't find it, I can probably find it again and add the info to a post. You picked up a real project truck and from what you have posted you are well up to the task. Personally my favorite Ford vans were the old Econolines with the 302 and 3 on the tree, but that is just me remembering the past.
 
  #5  
Old 02-22-12, 08:40 PM
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Smile

Thnks Equinox for the replies, I will check around the forums from time to time for topics I have experience at. I have learned alot from trial and error, mostly error. I tinkered with cars mainly in the late 80's early 90's (and I'm not talking vehicle models here)

Anyway I keep hearing the fan issue is probably related to the blower motor resistor module/pack like you mentioned. Is what I have circled in the picture below what you mean...

[IMG]URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/513/95964375.jpg/][/URL][/IMG]

Do you think there would be something similiar in the rear of the van for the rear blower. Not sure how to go about finding schematics for a particular conversion companys added equipement.

Remember front fan works fine in the top 2 speed postions, just not on low. The rear fan dash control is no were near the climate controls. Its way on the left side near the headlight switch. It is also a 4 postion knob. Off and 3 speeds.

A guide/link to cruise control problem solving for my exact model would be appriciated. Be nice if a multimeter and vacuum gauge are all that are required to problem solve it. I dont own a scan tool but could borrow one if neccessary.

The ford repair manual I bought is just way to generalized on everything

Heres the cruise control troubleshooting guide from that book.

Cruise control inoperative:

Blown fuse
short or open in cruise control circuit
faulty brake or clutch switch
leaking vacuum circuit
faulty cruise control switch
faulty stepper motor
faulty transducer
faulty speed sensor
faulty cruise control module
Note: not all systems will use the components listed.

Gee what a helpful troubleshooting section

Van Details: dated 3/94 E150/F3500 5.0L (Gasoline) and the conversion company is the Archer Coach Corporation.

The van stops at least as good as any vehicle I have ever owned in the past, but then again this is the first vehicle I have owned that is new enough to have ABS. Not concerned about the ABS not working at all.

Thanks again

cannonwillow
 

Last edited by cannonwillow; 02-22-12 at 09:32 PM.
  #6  
Old 02-23-12, 04:40 PM
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I am fairly frustrated with the cruise control issue. All my google searches find me results of how it was solved.

1) flashing 3-2 air bag code, clock spring faulty. replaced and fixed horn for me, zero on the cruise control.

2) leaking brake pressure switch, happens to be big fire hazzard also. Mine was leaking brake fluid so I assume it was faulty. Replaced it and still zero on the cruise control.

In all my searches, I found the cruise was fixed when either of the above 2 faults were found and repaired..
 
  #7  
Old 02-23-12, 08:09 PM
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I don't have time now but I will try later and post the step by step tests I found that you can do on the various cruise components. I also need time to find them again, but they were quite detailed. Yes, that is the ballast resistor shown in your drawing, and yes the most common symptom for a failure is only have the top one or two fan speeds. They are pretty cheap as I mentioned also so consider starting with a new one first and see what that does, though it most likely will at least correct your front cabin fan issue. I have no idea, but it is always possible that they wired the rear fan switch into the same module pack used for the front, or that it has a separate resistor at that blower, but it could still be a bad fan motor, or even a bad ground. For the rear I still think a simple 12volt test is the fastest to either eliminate the motor or confirm it. In the meantime in regards to the cruise, check the vaccum hoses for vaccum, collapsing due to age, or fallen off as a start point. It will only get more expensive from there.
 
  #8  
Old 02-25-12, 10:49 PM
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I forgot to ask you if your rear brakes lights ALL work. How about the cigarette lighter outlet? The rear brake lights may need to for the cruise to work. The cigarette lighter may share the same fuse as the cruise system, so check that also regardless of what you have already checked in the fuse panel. I did find this that may help you.

thorssell.net/hbook/cctest.html

Also this.

20v.org/cruise.htm
 
  #9  
Old 02-27-12, 05:01 AM
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Rear brake lights all work including upper 3rd brake light. Cigarette lighter works also. I have no parking brake though. One of the connection points for an eyelet of the cable rusted through. As long as I make sure the parking brake pedal is pulled up the brake warning light on the dash stays off though.

I replaced the front blower motor resistor pack. I now have all 3 speeds in front but still no rear blower. I double check the fuse panel and your link shortly...
 
  #10  
Old 02-27-12, 04:35 PM
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Glad you solved the easy issue first. I would also pull apart the rear blower and check for a resistor near the switch, but also as I said connect 12v direct to the motor to at least confirm or eliminate that issue. I am thinking it is the motor and while it ran for a well, may have been contaminated with dirt over the years that finished it off recently. Did you check the vaccum hoses yet on the cruise? Are there two switches behind your brake pedal also? One for stop lights and one for cruise canellaton? It is possible that if so, one is stuck in, closing the circuit and cancelling your cruise permanently. Just thinking that starting with the easy things first makes the most sense and possibly could end up as the lowest cost approach with your truck.
 
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