surface rust

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  #1  
Old 08-28-13, 01:27 PM
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surface rust

Hi, I have some surface rust on my f150, would like to take care of it myself, never tried it before but what i have read all i need to do is basically sand off the paint and rust, add a primer, then paint and clear coat, the rust isn,t through the metal all the way. does this sound right. any suggestions will be helpful.thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-28-13, 01:37 PM
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Ya, that's it in a nut shell. The better you sand off the rust, the longer it will take to come back providing you do the primer/paint right. To remove any sanding dust take a clean rag damp with paint thinner and wipe the metal clean. Normally the primer gets wet sanded prior to applying the top coat. It's best to run your finish paint up to a style line or molding so it's not overly noticeable. How much rust and where is it on your truck?
 
  #3  
Old 08-29-13, 12:19 PM
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thanks, how many coats of primer do they usually use, and should i sand every coat, the rust is on the back wheel well right above the tire, it's on the flat part before it starts the little bend up the side. there are probably about 7 or 8 spots in a 1 to 2 foot section.how about the paint, is that stuff any good that's comes in a spray can with the clear coat already added, not sure who makes it. thanks again
 
  #4  
Old 08-29-13, 01:25 PM
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I don't want to discourage you but don't be surprised if that rust is actually coming through from the back side. It's a common rust through area.
 
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Old 08-29-13, 01:36 PM
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I sure hope it's not, it does feel pretty solid , would i beable to push my finger through the rust if was all the way through, guess i will find out when i sand it. thanks for the comment even though i didn't want to hear that.but at least i won't be surprised now just alittle mad. thanks
 
  #6  
Old 08-29-13, 01:50 PM
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That's why it's important to sand off all the rust! Not only does it make it harder for the rust to return, it will reveal any damage that might be there. It's better to expose a rust hole and fix it than just paint over it. Paint alone might give it another year but if you remove the rust, patch the hole - you'll have a longer lasting repair

Basically 1 coat of primer is enough but when you wet sand the primer getting it ready for the finish coat you might sand thru it or see areas that need more attention ..... so often more than 1 coat if primer is needed.

Clear coat is a separate coating that is needed over a base coat. There are also enamels that don't require a clear coat, there aren't any paints that have the clear coat added - it's a different animal.
 
  #7  
Old 08-29-13, 02:02 PM
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if there are some holes are we now talking bondo, or is there something else i can do, it must of been enamel with the clear coat added i was reading about, would this work fine for what i'm doing or should i go with paint and clear coat.
 
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Old 08-29-13, 02:11 PM
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Base coat/clear coat is probably what is on your truck - that's what most manufactures use. IMO using an enamel would be fine. Getting the color right is the main thing. If you wind up with a rust hole, I'd probably use fiberglass to span the gap or maybe the bondo with fiberglass strands [often called 'kitty hair']
 
  #9  
Old 08-29-13, 02:18 PM
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It's almost always cheaper to diy! The exceptions are when you have to purchace equipment [that you may not use again/often] and those costs are higher than the labor cost. Pros generally have more knowledge and skill which can produce a better job but with forums like this one - the advice is out there to help a diyer accomplish a decent job!

Each job is different, so is the labor market. Labor prices can vary greatly between trades and regions. Whenever hiring work out, it's best to get multiple quotes and check references.
 
  #10  
Old 08-29-13, 02:25 PM
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I went to 1 body shop, they wouldn't mess with the small area, they just wanted to replace the whole side, about $1200-$1400, I'm just hoping to keep this truck another 2 years, figured i could just doctor it up.
 
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Old 08-29-13, 02:28 PM
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Probably not enough profit for them I'd sand it down and see what you got. It shouldn't be that big of a deal to fix a little rust hole ..... if you even have one.
 
  #12  
Old 08-29-13, 02:34 PM
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that's my plan, I going to try to do it next week, only way i am going to learn, i will keep you all posted, or give a yell if i run into problems in the mean time feel free to give more info. if you think of any. thanks again !!!
 
  #13  
Old 08-31-13, 02:42 PM
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The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal. There are companys that provide "patch panels" for this. If you want a temporary job I would look for a light duty sand blaster. Then skim coat with body filler then prime and paint. Acrylic enamel will work for what you are doing.
 
  #14  
Old 09-03-13, 11:52 AM
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ok thanks, i;m going to try and sand it, and primer tomorrow, if weather looks good, hopefully paint friday, i'll see how it comes out, if rust starts again maybe i'll look into those panels. thanks again.
 
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Old 09-03-13, 01:20 PM
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If you can sand down to shiny metal [no rust] you won't need the patch panels. They are mainly for vehicles with rust holes - where it's better to cut out the rust and install new metal. I use fiberglass or bondo on minor holes unless it was a vehicle I was restoring and expected to keep a long time.
 
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Old 09-03-13, 01:35 PM
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ok thanks, i'll let you know how it looks when i sand it, I plan on using a angle grinder to grind off paint and rust do you think that would work alright.
 
  #17  
Old 09-03-13, 01:42 PM
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Should do fine, just be careful with the grinder as it's easy to grind thru the metal
 
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Old 09-03-13, 01:46 PM
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ok, plan on taking my time since i've never done this, again thanks to all
 
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Old 09-03-13, 02:16 PM
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Don't use a stone on the grinder, use a flap wheel.
 
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Old 09-04-13, 05:18 AM
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thanks for the info, will use grinder to get heavy stuff off then sand by hand
 
  #21  
Old 09-04-13, 05:26 AM
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A wire wheel on a grinder would be better than the grinding disk. You don't have an electric or pneumatic sander? The sheet metal isn't very thick.
 
  #22  
Old 09-04-13, 07:56 AM
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i don't think i have one of those, i will double check though if not i will just have to be careful
 
  #23  
Old 09-04-13, 07:59 AM
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As everyone has been saying it doesn't seem like it would be a surface issue. I have made quite a few patch panels mostly for older muscle cars and trucks like from the early 60's but the oldest was a 26 turtle back T. This age and relative value of truck would say it just needs an easy repair to slow the progress of life in the East with the weather so the suggestions about wire wheel it out and neutralize the rust and make a patch for however big the hole turns out. There may be patch panels made for that truck but then you have to have a welder etc. To be honest I didn't paint any of them I sent them across the shop to the painters but a good primer using proper prep is a good thing. Eastwood is a company back east that sells all types of restoration products found on the internet.
 
  #24  
Old 09-04-13, 08:08 AM
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I'm going to start sanding in a little bit, I'll let you all know what i find. thanks
 
  #25  
Old 09-04-13, 08:44 AM
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hey guys, this is not looking pretty, rust is pretty deep into metal,should i keep grinding which will probably end up going all the way through which means some pretty big holes, or just grind some off and slap some bondo on it, primer and paint and and maybe get through the winter, wish i had a way to send pictures. thanks
 
  #26  
Old 09-04-13, 09:04 AM
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Told ya.....................
 
  #27  
Old 09-04-13, 10:02 AM
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It should sure me nice to see a pic or two. Fiberglass works decent for fixing smaller holes and doesn't require the equipment or skill needed to braze in a patch.
 
  #28  
Old 09-04-13, 10:12 AM
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there are 2 holes about 1 1/2 inches in diameter and 2 more little holes, there is probably are more under the good metal if i was to grind it off,don't think i'm going to get into that until i have more time, would they be small enough just to use bondo since i don't have any screen here.
 
  #29  
Old 09-04-13, 10:42 AM
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I would just leave the holes open til you can get the supplies you need. Pick up a spray can of rust converter to spray around inside the holes and the back side of the rusted metal. This is not going to be a quick job, plan on several hours to patch the holes, painting will be a whole nother chapter. There are several Youtubes that will give you an idea as to how you should approach the job better than can be explained here. Keep in mind, your repair will probably be somewhat temporary, maybe a few years. It is a built in design flaw that causes these rustouts in the first place, different places on different cars.
 
  #30  
Old 09-04-13, 11:12 AM
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ok thanks for everybody's help, you were all so helpful, i'll just go ahead and do the best i can, if it last a year i will be happy, i'll let you all know how it turns out,
 
  #31  
Old 09-09-13, 12:42 PM
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just an update, got it done, looks pretty good right now "better than it did" not sure how long my repair work will last but i gave it a shot, just wanted to thank everyone for their help!!!thanks again
 
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