weight distribution help... New to this...


  #1  
Old 08-29-13, 07:33 PM
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weight distribution help... New to this...

I dont know who knows about how to set up the weight distribution on a RV but I need a little extra help on what I don't know and could not find online...

Background is I found a great deal on a camper... I have an s 10 p/up. The camper is 4150 lbs empty and my truck is 4300 lbs.. ( Just went to scrap yard today and had truck weighed after unloading...) Dont know tounge weigh exactly but around 430 lbs.

Truck is rated to tow 5500 lbs..(so it says.. I may have too much trailer here...)

Anyway I followed this from e trailers as a guide to set up the WD hitch...

http://images.etrailer.com/Merchant2/Graphics/00000001/video/install-pro-series-weight-distribution-ps49903.webm I am concerned that I had to add more washers to get the bars angled right. I am at 9 on the chain links. They say at least 5.

What is the max angle of shank??? I read 6 to 8 degrees but I have seen max at 20.

Ther bars are level with trailer. I had to lower the shank as the trailer was upright at the tongue... Possibly I have too nmuch on the front wheels... I dont know how to tell really.

How I have it set the front wheel was 29" and went down like 1/2". There rear was 30" dropped a 1/2" or so.

Here is what I got.

Looks level...

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Driverside distribution bar...

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Passenger side... ( see the angle of the shank?)

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It had 4 washers in there from original ownner with a bigger truck... I added 4 more washers...)

Can I achieve the same thing with less washers then I will just be on a lower link on the chains???? Its a pain to remove the shank to do this, and I did it like three times... I dont want too much angle on the shank but I cannot find specifics....

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Even though the trailer shows slightly down in the front, ( with level) here with it all hooked up, its still seems high at the tongue from a visual of the trailer and truck..

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Another angle...

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So what you all say in the RV trailer towing world????
 
  #2  
Old 08-29-13, 08:14 PM
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That truck is a 97 with the rear bumper and lights. I had one, used to pull a horse trailer with it and had no problems hauling one horse. The animal was 1300 lbs and the trailer was around 2500 if memory is correct so I was just under 4000. Didn't use that hitch but I did with a double deck trailer hauling sand rails behind a class a motor home. I wasn't all that scientific, I just set it up so the trailer was straight or parallel to the ground and never had any issues. My S10 had a V6 with a 5 speed stick, loved it.
 
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Old 08-29-13, 08:25 PM
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That truck is a 97 with the rear bumper and lights.
96 auto...3:73 rear...4x4..4.6 l vortec... Only 190 hp...LOL

Just need to know how to set up weight dist.. hitch properly...
 
  #4  
Old 08-30-13, 05:39 AM
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Hitch

You want a slight dip at the hitch so that when the trailer pushes the truck, it adds weight to the rear wheels of the truck rather than lifting the rear truck wheels off the ground(which would lead to jack-knife situation).

Even though the trailer shows slightly down in the front, ( with level) here with it all hooked up, its still seems high at the tongue from a visual of the trailer and truck..
The level bubble is toward the front, so the front of the trailer is too high.

Also, inspect how your hitch receiver is attached to the truck.

You may need to turn the shank over to put the holes above the shank. This will raise the trailer tongue and lower the rear of the truck. This step may or may not be necessary.
 
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Old 08-30-13, 05:45 AM
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Great article at how Stuff Works, has pictures and a great explanation
 
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Old 08-30-13, 05:54 AM
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Hitch

Re-read my post. I did several edits. Hope this helps.
 
  #7  
Old 08-30-13, 06:44 AM
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From the looks of the picture you have too much lift. As stated can take too much weight off the rear axel of your truck making a dangerous situation. If I run into slick roads I will drop a link or two on the chains. When they start to slide you are just a passenger. Did you ever see the video on Reese hitches where they puled a trailer with a Olds Toronado with no rear wheels on it?
 
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Old 08-30-13, 07:14 AM
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Thanks so far guys...


Well the angle of the trailer I could fix. I will drop the ball down one knotch on the shank...

I need to find the #'s on what the front and rear drop should be. I am going to mess with it today and see how far it drops with no WD hooked up... I am sure the front will come up..

Like you said I dont want to lift the back too much...

I thought I read you want to set it up to restore the original height of the truck like it sits with with no trailer.

This is a high valkue Brophy WD hitch. I have the cove of the instructions but no instructions... I do not know what model but it says either the 06,08,or 10. Thats the other think....the bars are rated at 1000 lbs... If the tongue weighs 600 lbs that would be a lot... Seems over kill..

I will keep searching the internet...
 
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Old 08-30-13, 07:42 AM
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Well I found this so far for the front of the truck... It says reach back to half way, but I would think if I can get it back to original height would be ideal????


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Still reading....
 
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Old 08-30-13, 09:08 AM
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Well I dropped the ball down one notch on the shank... Seems to be on the level now...

I also removed one washer as I felt I had too many... I read 8 is max and 4 min... I have 7.. Although the washers I added where slightly thinner then the OEM. I added 3 of them....

Also the front of the vehicle measures at 28 3/4" with no trailer...29" with trailer ( so it did not raise much) and with WD on I restored to exactly 28 3/4" ( without going over )

The rear was 30" and dropped 1" to 29" with full weight. The bars restored it 1/2" to 29 1/2. I assume this is OK...

Now mind you I will have 2 adults added to that truck and two children in the back jumper seats. In the bed? Small grill, two bikes, odds and ends maybe...Anything else will get loaded in the trailer over the axles.. I really have nothing in there that weighs a lot...

This comment worried and worry's me...

From the looks of the picture you have too much lift. As stated can take too much weight off the rear axle of your truck making a dangerous situation. If I run into slick roads I will drop a link or two on the chains. When they start to slide you are just a passenger.
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 08-30-13 at 10:16 AM.
  #11  
Old 08-30-13, 10:09 AM
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It looks to me you have it done nicely. On the big trailer I had years ago I had a weight distribution hitch and it also had a sway dampener which was a sliding assembly that had a adjustable drag on it. It was attached to the trailer frame and the hitch assy on the towing vehicle and it made a large difference in stability through canyons etc. The trailer was d heavily built double decker and carried a fuel tank in the center and carried a quad in front of the lower car so it was heavy. I towed it with a 28ft class a. Good luck, I wouldn't feel uneasy withy our rig but would consider a sway control as an add.
 
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Old 08-30-13, 07:01 PM
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I also went to LT tires and that took a lot of the squrim out. Rides rough other times tho. Good shocks and a good brake controller are important. Wou ldnt be without the sway control.
 

Last edited by retired wrench; 08-30-13 at 07:04 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 08-30-13, 07:41 PM
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My problem now is the trans... I dont have a trans cooler.... I think I need one but read that its a farce... only works when moving and the oil to water cooler in the rad is enouhg...

But I guess if there is too much weight I am screwed...

Took out today and was hotter in the cab... My wife thought the heat was on...LOL...

Ummmm... What to do.????
 
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Old 08-30-13, 08:48 PM
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I would definitely recommend using a GOOD trans. cooler. As you said you have to be moving for it to work but that is when the trans. is making excessive heat. IF you want the thing to work then build it that way, I also ran trans. oil temp gauge in the Winnebago. I'd reaher spend the money on prevention that a tow truck.
 
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Old 08-30-13, 09:51 PM
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Yes you want a trans cooler. And yes they only work when moving,but so does the trans.Now the next thing you are going to run into is do you hook it in before or after the rad. cooler. I put mine after and have pulled an RV like yours for 20k miles with no trouble,and thats with a GM 700R4 trans which arent the best for towing.
 
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Old 08-30-13, 11:14 PM
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Old 08-31-13, 02:27 PM
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All good stuff in the article. You have the same trans as mine except yours is electronicly controlled. I have gotten by with my stock unit so far.I change fluid and filter every 60K and add a can of "Lube Guard". I am not a chemical lover but am completely sold on this product. It has corrected shifting problems in several trans. in my family.
 
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Old 08-31-13, 05:02 PM
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As far as trans coolers go there is an argument to be made for them to be installed before the rad.
There is a problem running with a trans cooler after the rad in cold climates.
The transmission will take longer to warm up and in subzero weather can over-cool to the point of the oil becoming too thick to operate properly.

IOW when installed before the rad it acts as an oil warmer as much as an oil cooler.
 
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Old 08-31-13, 05:16 PM
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Bought a 20,000 gvw one today... I read put the biggest you can fit... I installed it on the out line back to the trans... It was closest and easiest..

I tried to get it in front of rad but too tight.. Put it in fron of condeser.. Changed trans filter today too. Its dark know, but got pan back up... Adding synthetic and 1 quart high mileage stuff...to top it off...

Hope this helps the heat... Have a gauge on order too....
 
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Old 08-31-13, 05:38 PM
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If you are afraid your trans might get chills in cold weather cover up the cooler.I cant see cooling the fluid then dumping it into 200 degree liquid. Personally I dont do anything with mine and in my area it can drop to -20.
 
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Old 08-31-13, 07:52 PM
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I have installed a number of transmission coolers on towing vehicles as well as muscle cars. As for the 4l60e compared to the 700 r4 the later is electronically controlled but the shafts are also a bunch larger in diameter making them a ton stronger for pulling weight. I have on in my big truck and it is different. As for locating a trand cooler keep in mind that any heat given off will have effect on whatever is behind it, that being said I try to locate them remotely so they only disburse heat in a place that won't cause something to run hotter. I have mounted several remotely using fans and or ducting to control air flow. A custom car running a 700+HP big block needs a real effective trans. heat control without losing show points so I have been creative in the past. Years back Mercedes Benz made a race car, 300 sl that was later sold to non racers, they had engine oil coolers that proved to be too effective for non racing usage so we fitted partial covers to help in proper temp control. Get the biggest and cover it if needed. A temp gauge in the oil pan of cooler line will solve any questions on that one.
 
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Old 10-13-13, 05:24 PM
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Well broke a shift seloniod and made a mess when I did this. When to the AA place because I was done!!!!! ( My driveway is still suffering)

Cost me $250 for two new selonoids and new syntethic fluid. Gauge cam and installed. Trans temps dont get over 180f. Settles at 170f or so, sometimes 160F. Hit some bigger hills and reached 190f once but cools right back down pretty quick.

I am happy with the temps.

Converter locks at 35mph. It may come out when hitting a larger hill.

Anyway for my own amusement I went to cat scale yesterday to check my weights.

What you all think?



Weighing #1 -- TT attached and Weight Distribution Activated
Let Front Axle Load be "FA1"
Let Rear Axle Load be "RA1"
Let TT Axles Load be "TT1"

Then, while in same position on scales, take
Weighing #2 -- TT attached and Weight Distribution Not Activated (WD bars unloaded, but hanging in place)
Let Front Axle Load be "FA2"
Let Rear Axle Load be "RA2"
Let TT Axles Load be "TT2"

Then, drive off scales and drop TT. Return to scales and take
Weighing #3 -- TV only -- TT Not Attached
Let Front Axle Load be "FA3"
Let Rear Axle Load be "RA3"

From the above values, you can calculate:

TV weight = FA3 + RA3 4480

Gross Combined Weight = (FA1 + RA1 + TT1) 8820
{should also be equal to (FA2 + RA2 + TT2) if scale weights are correct}

TT Weight = Gross Combined Weight - TV Weight 4400

Tongue Weight = (FA2 + RA2) - (FA3 + RA3) 420

Load Transferred to TT Axles
when WD System is Activated = TT1 - TT2 80



My axle weight ratings on truck are 2700 lbs

My truck GVWR is 4900 lbs

This was empty just me in truck. Propane filled. Seems I have 500 lbs to work with on the truck side roughly.

These #'s look right?

You see no #'s are over my axle ratings. Also none of the combined axle ratings go over my GVWR


Here are my 3.

1 WD activated
2 WD unhooked
3 truck only




WD activated
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19229[/ATTACH]


WD disconnected.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19230[/ATTACH]



Truck only
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19231[/ATTACH]



Here are the scales....Ol red and new camper.

( Got to get to map guys to paint his house... " Inside joke". Trooper will know..)

I can tell you there were some women walking around in the parking lot scantly clothed. Its close to Halloween so they kept asking me for a trick or something..??? Dont know if thats normal.???? This was a truck stop right off the NJ turnpike.








 
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  #23  
Old 01-02-14, 07:58 AM
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I know this is a little late but maybe it can help you or the next person that comes along asking the same question(s). Weight Distribution Hitch - HitchAnything.com
 
 

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