Can't believe I did this


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Old 10-30-13, 05:51 PM
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Can't believe I did this

I just dented the left front body panel on my 92' Ford Ranger XLT. I was backing out of space in a parking garage and banged into one of those concrete pillars. Nothing else was damaged. But it needs to be replaced. Is this bolted or welded on my make/model? Are there aftermarket body parts for this because I doubt the junk yard will have one. Thanks
 
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Old 10-30-13, 06:14 PM
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May want to post a picture "a body panel" could mean a lot of different things.
 
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Old 10-30-13, 06:22 PM
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Ok. I will post a photo tonight
 
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Old 10-30-13, 10:37 PM
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Here is the photo of my truck with the damage I did today. Is this called a quarter panel?
 
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Old 10-31-13, 04:01 AM
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I believe that is a front fender. A quarter panel is the 'fender' on the rear. You should be able to get an after market fender although junk yards should also have one - just call around and ask.
 
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Old 10-31-13, 05:47 AM
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One issue you may run into with a dent in that area is the area where the hinges are mounted could be effected.
If it's off it can cause the door to bind or hit the fender as the door is opened.
Any real junk yard should have one or can get one for you.
A pro junk yard will have a system where if there looking for a part they do not have they can put out a request to all the local yards for it.
He's a site for an OEM fender.
Buy 1992 Ford Ranger Parts | FordParts.com

It may cost more to paint it then buy the fender.
 
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Old 10-31-13, 08:47 AM
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Yeah, My Chilton's manual listed the steps for removing and installing that fender.
It made no mention of welding, just bolts and screw. I don't think the door is effected. It opens and closes fine.

I guess the lesson is to NEVER take the parking space next to the concrete pillar.

I'm not worried about paint. I can paint it myself. I just hope the fender is reasonably priced. Will I need to remove anything to access bolts and screws? And do you agree that no welding is needed? Thanks
 
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Old 10-31-13, 08:53 AM
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No welding... All bolts and screws... There is a lot involved to change a fender...

IMO I would leave it and just drive it... Its an older vehicle... But thats just my opinion... It does not look too bad...


If people ask just say a deer ran into you.....
 
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Old 10-31-13, 09:05 AM
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The front fender should be a bolt on part - no welding or cutting involved.
 
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Old 10-31-13, 10:08 AM
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If it's cheaper then I thought, I'm going to replace it since I'm keeping the truck for a very long time. The truck looked really good for it's age. Is ordering a fender pretty much straightforward............just give make/model? Or do I need to get code or something from door jam placard?
 
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Old 10-31-13, 10:28 AM
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Year, make, and model should do it. There are no "kits", so you will get just the fender, unpainted, if that is what you order. So, although probably not a problem, based on what I have seen of Arizona vehicles (as opposed to rust belt vehicles), you would need to order any hardware that may be needed separately. The hardest part will probably be getting the hood off and back on, and you'll probably want an extra se of hands, at least for that part. Again, being Arizona, I would probably check some of the scrap yards first though. Who knows, but you might find one the same color, and avoid having to paint it. And it may be that other model year fenders will fit as well, but check the mounting holes, headlight mounting, and like that, to make sure they are the same.
 
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Old 10-31-13, 11:01 AM
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I don't think I need to remove the hood on mine. Maybe I'm wrong. I'll check the Chilton's steps again. Thanks.
 
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Old 10-31-13, 06:33 PM
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Lawrosa,

You said there is a lot involved in changing a fender. Could you explain?
 
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Old 10-31-13, 06:42 PM
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Nuts...wires...stops.. rubber pieces,,, wheel shrouds...etc... Anything that is attached to your fender now needs to be moved to the new fender...

You will see its a daunting task...

I have done many front end replacements in my day...

You always have extra parts left over...

1... you dont know where they go because the fenders are different from OEM to re manufactured
2...One is just too lazy to reinstall and move all the parts to the new fender thinking they are not needed...

Just my opinion...
 
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Old 11-01-13, 08:15 AM
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Yes, I figured you were referring to matching up new part with hardware Mike. That is good to know. As long as I don't have to weld, I can deal with it. If I don't find the fender in town, I can get one online for about $70.00. Quality probably won't be that great. As long as the thing fits properly, that's good enough for me. Thanks.
 
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Old 11-01-13, 09:11 AM
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That's the problem with aftermarket body parts - they don't always fit perfectly. A year or so ago I helped my son replace a fender on his mazda. He bought an aftermarket fender because it was half of the cost of a used factory fender. It took a little massaging along with over drilling one hole to get it to bolt up. Not a big deal but it wasn't as simple as just unbolting the old fender and bolting on the new.
 
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Old 11-07-13, 04:24 PM
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I found a couple fenders at a local junkyard. But these both had dings, dents, or minor cosmetic damage that I won't pay 50$-75 for. I ordered one from RockAuto that is CAPA certified. This means that if it isn't a perfect match or bolts holes don't line up, I can technically ask for a refund. Thanks for all the great input from you guys.
 
 

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