Well these were Bendix brakes... I have not done rear drum brakes in 6 years maybe on this truck? I'm looking for the receipt as I speak...

I have to note I am having a run of bad luck lately. If I didn't have bad luck I would have no luck at all...LOL

Anyway I did not put the shoes on correctly the first time. I forgot there is a smaller shoe aims forward and big shoe aims rearward... So dont make fun of the pics...

I remove the drums again and moved the two shoes needed...

has anyone seen brakes fall apart like this? Also note these were riveted. The replacements I got are glued.... ( They make crap IMO)

The two damaged shoes....





Here is the WM Penn grease I used. ( For the adjusters) Was my dads. Must be 40 years old.. I remember using these the repack my bearings on a older car 30 years ago I had.( 70 Lemans drums all around.) I assume its still good...LOL

( My dad passed and I have a lot of his stuff)





Here I am an idiot and put the same secondary shoes on the same wheel. I realized my mistake while test driving and examining the old shoes when I was done...

Hey we learn from our mistakes right???

Geez I should be a seasoned pro....I only wish my 13 yr old was interested in learning. As my father taught me everything I know, I would of loved to show him how the replace drum brakes...




Any feedback is appreciated...

 

Ha Ha...Yes I've seen this happen many years ago. Over heating is the obvious call.

You're not the only idiot.

I put the two secondary shoes on one wheel and the two primaries on the other wheel. When I applied the brake the car pulled to one side so badly I could not control it. Never made that mistake again.

BTW...buy new parts including springs and hardware AND new brake lubricant.

Another one time only incident...Always check that the old oil filter gasket comes off with the filter. Two gaskets don't seal properly. I know from experience. Took an hour to clean splattered oil from the floor and from underside of car.

 

I hear that all the time.

It's so unfortunate that most of the younger generation is not even interested in learning mechanical stuff.

 

Why would this be norm and how is it preventable? Can it be that I adjusted my brakes improperly? ( I did adjust manually a few times throughout instead of the backing up procedure....( I also tow a 4.5k lb camper...)

Also on a rim touch test I notice the rears are HOT after new brakes!!!. ( Not extremely). Is this normal with new?? As last time I did shoes I never really paid attention..............

Im a plumber remember...

 

I'm not sure, but that could be normal on the first drive, as they wear in. Did you have the drums turned? Are the smooth drums or finned? Finned will dissipate heat better than smooth all things considered.

How did you adjust them? Drums on, turn out til they just drag while spinning, then back off a bit. Pump the pedal several times to seat everything, then check adjustment again? Thats what I always did with my cars.

I wouldn't be concerned with glued instead of riveted, heck, they hold cars and airplanes together with glue.

As to the pad reversal and what Norm did? Violated the 1st rule of a brake job for someone who only does it every few years. DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. Use the other as the mirror image reference.

Rear drums do very little in the braking dept if you have front disc. Just enough to keep the rear from snapping around, esp when unloaded. I didn't change her SUV rear drums til over 100k (2 front replacements) and they still had about 1/2 as much material left as the new ones. Prob could have gone 150K.

 

If you really want a test of sanity, replace the drum-in-a-hat parking brakes on a Dodge Ram 3500. Disc brakes all around, but rear has drum brakes built in for parking. Some engineer (they have mommies, too) decided it was more frugal for Dodge NOT to cast mirrored backing plates for their trucks, so the right adjustment hole is on the bottom and the left is on the top, with the stabilizer bar directly covering the hole. Impossible to adjust without removing two wheels (dually) and disc brake apparatus to get to the drum brakes.

I like the glued shoes mainly because as they wear, the rivets won't make spaghetti of your drums when they make contact.

 

What Gunguy says.



And as to Gunguys remark? In my defense the two shoes looked almost identical! An old Ford Maverick.

 

I've replaced a lot of drum brakes over the yrs that had pieces broke off of the shoe, never paid much attention to the cause. Since I tend to keep vehicles a long time I always buy the lifetime brakes so while I might have to change them out again - it won't cost me anything.

I agree with replacing one side at a time! I can't remember the last time I needed to double check the other side but it's nice to know you have that option.

.... and if a diyer never goofs, he probably doesn't do much ..... or he's lying

 

No..

Huh? They look like this..



Yes basically.. But I did it with the tires on...


Yes I did that. And its not really a mirror image as the brake cable comes in on different sides of each drum. ( One on the primary and one the secondary shoe)

 

Were the inside of the drum surface smooth with little or no grooves? If not then replace or have turned. (I prefer to replace)

Your drums are finned.

The drag test for adjustment is better without the tire on.

Did you put the secondary and or primary shoe on the correct position? I think the primary points to the front of vehicle.

That's why you do one side first and use the other side as a template. Of course today digital pics are the rage. I always take pics as I take things apart.

 

No grooves. smooth and I sanded them with emery to scratch up the surface..

Yes I fixed that. Small shoe is primary and faces the front of vehicle..

 

+1. This is always a good idea when it comes to brakes, window regulators, accessory belts, you name it.

As for making mistakes; those of us that do things make mistakes.

 

Really? I've never seen one like that. I wonder why they thought to do it that way?

Btw...those are considered finned drums.