GMC Sierra, turn key....nothing

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Old 06-22-14, 04:12 AM
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GMC Sierra, turn key....nothing

2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Classic, standard trans. Went to start the truck, five minutes after having shut it off, dash lights come up, turn key...nothing. I had the door open for about three minutes with the key in the ignition and the warning bell bing, bing bing... Attached jumper cables...same. No visible terminal corrosion. Yes, I know that doesn't necessarily mean there is not a connection issue and I'll check it. Never had prior battery or ignition issues.

Has plow, separate cable to plow solenoid.

Where do I start, no pun intended, after cleaning the connections? No, I have not tried to jump start it and it would be difficult to get it out from where it's parked.

This sucks...

Gary
 
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Old 06-22-14, 04:29 AM
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Are you sure the clutch pedal is being depressed all the way? Is there a click when you try to engage the starter?
 
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Old 06-22-14, 04:37 AM
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How old is the battery? ..............
 
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Old 06-22-14, 04:44 AM
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I've got the clutch in all the way, no noise when I turn the key.

Battery may be the original, I don't remember. That battery would have to have a dead internal short not to get at least some response from jumper cables, yes? The cables were well connected, clearly the jumper car was loaded. RPM dropped a little.

I'm going to go clean the connections now. Hopefully it will have faith-healed overnight.
 
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Old 06-22-14, 05:45 AM
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If the lights go out when you turn the key to start it's likely the battery, if the lights don't dim then it's probably a bad connection somewhere.
 
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Old 06-22-14, 06:18 AM
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Don't forget to check all your start/run fuses. If the boosting vehicle dies down when you turn the key, you may have a bad solenoid or starter. The draw is there, but not working. You would have a dead "open" not "short" in the battery, but the boosting vehicle is completing the circuit.
 
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Old 06-22-14, 06:33 AM
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My 2 Cents (¢¢)

Might be a weak battery in the key FOB.

Clutch has a switch that does not allow engine to start as you know. Might be a defective switch. Use a continuity tester to test it.

Another possible cause but far more difficult to diagnose without the proper testing equipment, is the one or two modules between ignition switch sensing the key FOB is inserted into switch and the other that connects between the FOB switch and the start module.

...

Might need an expert with the correct diagnostic testing equipment...



None applicable text removed.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 06-22-14 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 06-22-14, 06:42 AM
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When my clutch switch went bad, I jumped it with a paper clip so that it would work temporarily. My clutch switch has 6 pins, so making 3 loops, I jumped from 1 to 2, 3 to 4, and 5 to 6.
 
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Old 06-22-14, 06:42 AM
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Thanks guys. Dead short; that's what I said, but that's not what I meant....evidently. Thanks for the clarification.

The lights do go out when I turn the key, and furthermore, I heard a faint clicking for a few seconds. You know, that sound when you have a dead battery.

The boosting vehicle dropped ~a hundred RPM when I connected the cables. I didn't hear a further drop when I turned the key.

My wife pushed the truck to get it rolling down the slight incline where it had died and I jumped started it. Third gear, started right up. Had the truck running for a couple of minutes, shut it off, and it wouldn't start again. I parked on an incline. BTW, my wife is a badass.

I'm leaning toward dead battery. I guess I can take it out and bring it to my local Advance Auto where they can check it for me

Any closing thoughts?

Thanks

Oh, I never did clean the terminals. I guess I'll do that before I take it out just to rule that out.
 
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Old 06-22-14, 09:30 AM
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It sure sounds like the battery. If you can, put the battery on a charger before having it tested. You can't accurately test a discharged battery.
 
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Old 06-22-14, 10:30 AM
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Also many people replace the battery only to find out the battery was fine and the alternator is bad. Having said that, 7-8 years is often the limit to how long the original equipment battery will last.
 
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Old 06-23-14, 03:25 AM
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At Advance, the battery checked out as nothing wrong with it. I will put it on the tender and see where that goes.

The alternator dash light is not on when the engine is running.
 
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Old 06-23-14, 03:56 AM
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Some alternators [when they go bad] won't shut off when the vehicle is shut down - discharges the battery while it sets. Once you get your battery charged up and the truck cranked, go back to advance and have them test your charging system.
 
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Old 06-23-14, 06:22 AM
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I'll do that, it's on the tender now. I looked at the slip from Advance which says 12.55 V and 558 CCA. It's a 600 CCA battery.
 
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Old 06-29-14, 06:32 PM
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Battery may be the original, I don't remember.
The brand of the battery will give you an idea if it is original or not. If it's a 7 year old battery, I'd replace it regardless of how it tests. I replace mine after 3 winters and haven't been stranded yet. The price of a new battery is less than the cost of one roadside service call or tow and to me worth not being inconvenienced.
 
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