02 dodge ram heater

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  #1  
Old 08-10-14, 05:15 AM
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02 dodge ram heater

This truck is making me nuts. Just flushed out the cooling system, put in a new thermostat and radiator cap. Now, I can get heat for a couple seconds then it goes right to cold. If I shut the fan off and drive a while, I can get heat again for a second then back to cold. Any ideas?
 
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Old 08-10-14, 06:46 AM
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Have you checked the air blend door and it's actuator? They are notorious for breaking on that truck.
 
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Old 08-10-14, 09:31 AM
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Ill check it. Sure can't afford to replace the core.
 
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Old 08-10-14, 11:01 AM
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The door, actuator, position sensor and re-programming the computer to make it work is probably not much cheaper than the core.

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It can be maddening when it fails. Mine went a couple years ago. At first I could not make fine temp adjustments up. I'd have to crank it to full hot then back off until I got the temp I wanted. Then if I wanted it a bit warmer I had to go back to full hot and start all over again. Then in the second stage I only had full hot or full cold. Then finally it stuck in the full heat position.
 
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Old 08-10-14, 11:05 AM
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Well winter is coming and I have to replace a dripping core, blend doors, actuator and motor. Do it all at one time. The entire interior of the truck will be removed....steering wheel, shifters, dashboard....everything. You have to recover all the refrigerant....It isn't going to be pretty. 2001 3500 dually, Cummins with 438,000 on the clock and still going strong.
 
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Old 08-11-14, 07:10 PM
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Ok. The whole thing makes me I'll. first I heard it was just air. Then someone said fins on water pump may be bad. Now it's going downhill. Where do I find someone who knows what to check before giving the death sentence. 2k is gonna kill me. Seems like everyone is guessing. I need someone who knows
 
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Old 08-11-14, 07:23 PM
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Did your thermostat have an equalization hole in it. Some cheap, foreign made ones don't. Without a hole the coolant can become trapped in the block causing overheating. You can replace the thermostat easily enough.
 
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Old 08-11-14, 10:56 PM
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Y'all leave great ideas. Thank you so muck
 
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Old 08-12-14, 03:00 AM
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Remember you are asking us to diagnose your problems without even looking at the truck. Not too bad for clairvoyants, but we try. No one will "know" what your problem is until you do some investigating of your own. Let us know about the thermostat hole.
 
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Old 08-12-14, 05:12 AM
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Sometimes you can squeeze into the passenger foot well area and get the end of a finger on the end of the blend door. Sometimes you can feel that it's broken. You can also have someone change the temperature setting while your finger is on the end of the shaft while you feel for it to smoothly move from one position to the next. If the heat dial is moved a bit and the shaft doesn't move... not good. Also not good is if you feel it "pop" or wiggle around. Certainly start with the cheap & easy stuff like the thermostat though cause as Chandler mentioned the heater core & blend door area is a pain to access.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 06:01 PM
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For clarification, this happened AFTER a cooling system flush, or the cooling system flush was to try to help?

If it happened after, I would firstly suggest you NOT drive this vehicle until this is resolved. This is a classic air bubble symptom. If it was doing it before I would lean away from this. The big problem with this is that your gauge cannot read coolant temperature if it is not submerged in coolant, knowing you have air in the system you run serious risk of isolated hot spots and engine damage. What engine do you have? 4.7l or 5.2l? the 4.7l has a bleeder on the front cover that must be used. For any car now a-days, I like to use my coolant filler funnel, its a lisle tool that can be had for like 40 bucks or so, one common problem in many cooling systems is that the radiator cap is not the highest point in the system, so getting trapped air out and completely filling the cooling system is difficult.

IF it was doing it before, this could absolutely be a clogged up heater core. The heat is from the coolant in the heater core, but the flow is so slow that it sucks all the heat out of it without fresh hot coolant to draw from. It is not uncommon for a flush to not really help much. Sometimes if you get both heater core hoses off and flush the heater core only, your much more likely to help cleaning the heater core out than just pushing water through a huge system that never really allows pressure and agitation of the debris.

The last plugged heater core i cleaned out for a friend it took my house water pressure from a hose to clear a path in the heater core, I first poured a bunch of CLR down into both hoses, let it sit for about 15 min and it did NOTHING for flow haha, I then took my hose, pushed it into one of the heater core hoses and slowly unkinked it, it ended up taking the majority of the water pressure to get it to start flowing. NOTE: if you try this, these are not made to handle 40+ psi, you run a serious risk of rupturing it, on the other hand, if you rupture it you can just bypass it in the meantime and you are where you started... needing a heater core.
 
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