Water in the oil pan

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  #1  
Old 10-13-15, 12:27 AM
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Water in the oil pan

I bought a 1998 gmc truck 5.7 vortex not running due to a ring gear chewed up by the starter 100 thousand km on it after 40 hrs of pulling transfer case transmission ect... I decided fresh oil , filters would be wise . To my horror a couple of liters of anti freeze came out of the oil drain plug. I pulled all the plugs and check all the cylinders for commpresion and to see if water would come out of any plug holes. No water , the holes on the passenger side were 210 to 190 on the tester . Drivers side were all 150 . All the tests were five compression strokes dry . Is it a head gaskit that effects 4 cylinders???
 
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  #2  
Old 10-13-15, 12:35 AM
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Hopefully, it's only a head gasket & not a cracked block. Were the plugs, on the driver's side, cleaner than the passenger side?
 
  #3  
Old 10-13-15, 03:03 AM
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for that model engine there is a good chance the coolant is probably coming from the intake gasket.
 
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Old 10-13-15, 04:58 AM
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I second alan's thoughts. I have 260,000 mi on my current 5.7; head gaskets still fine, but did intake gaskets couple of years ago (mine was leaking externally).
 
  #5  
Old 10-13-15, 08:49 AM
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The intake ? Never occurred to me that it would be the intake gasket
 
  #6  
Old 10-13-15, 08:58 AM
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How do I check if it's the intake gaskit? If I lift off the intake I imagine I would see rusted lifters
 
  #7  
Old 10-13-15, 02:05 PM
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when you pull the intake just look at the gasket close around the coolant ports on the heads to see if it shows any damaged areas and signs of leaking.
 
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Old 10-13-15, 02:09 PM
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Are you losing coolant ?

Have steam coming out the exhaust ?
 
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Old 10-13-15, 03:41 PM
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Wish I can send you a picture under the intake full of water Driver side part of the engine is all rusty the rocker arms and lifters ect... That's the side with the low compression 150 each cylinder after replacing the intake gasket should I be taking the head off and researing the valves?
 
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Old 10-13-15, 04:00 PM
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And thank you for pointing me in the right direction Alan other fellow there
 
  #11  
Old 10-14-15, 03:53 AM
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150 is still a good compression reading I would just try the intake and fresh oil first and see how it does when you get it running if you have good oil pressure and no knocking sounds chances are no major damage has been done.
but if the vehicle was driven much with a bunch of coolant in the oil it doesn't take long to do major damage and then you would be looking at a complete engine rebuild as the crank,rod, and cam bearings would all need changed also seeing how you bought it not running there is no way of knowing unless you just want to pull the engine and tear it apart to see what it needs, the intake gaskets on these models have ruined some engines if the coolant in the oil isn't found soon enough and repaired.
 
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Old 10-14-15, 07:06 AM
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I'm with Alan. Intake manifold gasket job isn't terribly involved or expensive and could be all it needs. Worth the gamble.
 
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Old 10-14-15, 08:03 AM
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How would the intake manifold gasket affect compression? Also, what about the 90% guide line? Isn't the lowest cylinder supposed, to be 90% of the others?
 
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Old 10-14-15, 09:30 AM
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On one side of the engine all the rockers and springs are evenly rusty the other is clean . My thoughts were because I did a wet and dry test with no change on the rusty side ( but a big increase on the clean side 200 to 250) that it is a valve seat issue yes or am I on glue?
 
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Old 10-14-15, 03:05 PM
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suspect that its probably the rust on the valve train components that may be affecting the compression is it just surface rust?
the cylinders should be within 90 percent of each other but wont really become a dead cylinder till it gets really low 100-110 psi I would still try running it as is and not spend anymore and see if compression comes up after running the engine for awhile if its just rust that's affecting the valves they will likely seat better after running, this will also give you a chance to check oil pressure and see if you have any other issues that may require you to pull the engine and do a rebuild anyway.
 
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Old 10-14-15, 03:07 PM
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Pulpo, you're assuming the engine hadn't had a whole bank of low cylinders for awhile.

Bruce, the wet/dry is more of an elimination test, it eliminates (or makes it less likely) having a piston ring issue. Doesn't automatically mean valve seals.

Here's the $64,000 question. Are you planning on keeping this for a while? Might very well be worth yanking the heads and getting them rehabbed at a machine shop (or you could even replace them with aftermarket new ones which are fairly cheap nowadays). At the same time you would take care of any gasket issues with both heads and intake manifold.

Just a thought.
 
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Old 10-14-15, 03:49 PM
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Pulpo, you're assuming the engine hadn't had a whole bank of low cylinders for awhile.
We don't have a time line for the anti freeze, in the oil either. No matter how long the cylinders were low, the cause can't be an intake manifold gasket. I'm assuming that both problems started at the same time which means, it's either a head gasket or something is cracked.
 
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Old 10-14-15, 07:05 PM
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i'm going to throw a $40 intake gasketin it and run it with some stuff in the radiator sealant or whatever that bars leak or what you guys suggest . See if it drives ok then look for a engine if I like the truck thank you all for your help and more than that giving me the incentive to ... Well not give up
 
  #19  
Old 10-15-15, 05:50 AM
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Pulpo, biggest question in my mind is how you would get an entire bank to be low at the same time. I don't discount it being head gasket related, just can't get my brain around all 4 cylinders being equally low.
 
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Old 10-15-15, 05:57 AM
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If you're going to go the sealant route, there's some high end stuff that goes, I think, about $60-80/qt, but it's supposed to be the cat's @ss. Haven't tried it on anything myself, but supposed to be a lot better than the $10 stuff. Pulpo, any experience with these? Mostly the anecdotal info I have is that it is at least good for short term, like making a vehicle last until next tax refund or trade-in. Don't know about long-term lasting power.
 
  #21  
Old 10-15-15, 06:12 AM
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It may gum up your thermostat while it's circulating so some mechanics recommend removing the thermostat until the leak has stopped, and then drain and re-install the thermostat.
 
  #22  
Old 10-15-15, 06:30 AM
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sodium silicate has always worked fairly well as a sealer and there is no other additives to it that may cause additional problems.
 
  #23  
Old 10-15-15, 06:33 AM
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Pulpo, biggest question in my mind is how you would get an entire bank to be low at the same time. I don't discount it being head gasket related, just can't get my brain around all 4 cylinders being equally low.
Understood. A horizontal crack across the 4 cylinders could do that & also allow the anti freeze in the oil. While I've never seen a head gasket blown across all 4 cylinders, I guess that it could happen. If the vehicle was severly overheated maybe both things could happen. Maybe all three things could happen, intake & head gaskets + a crack. The engine has to be disassembled. There is no way around it. I wouldn't only replace the intake manifold gasket.
 
  #24  
Old 10-16-15, 12:04 AM
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I know right that's why I started searching the web . With out doing a leak down I won't really know what's going on . I'm still hoping it has to do with all the rust I see on that side . I will put it together over the week end and beat the piss out of it . Let you know what it's at then if it will still turn over ....
 
  #25  
Old 10-17-15, 02:38 AM
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I would only use sealant as a very desperate last resort .

I would replace intake gaskets & give it a try .

God bless
Wyr
 
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