pillar to door wires

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Old 10-26-15, 12:19 PM
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pillar to door wires

This happens to be my 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad cab, but I understand that the problem is not unique to this vehicle nor brand of vehicle. The lock stopped working, and initial check proved the window nor speaker to be working, so pulled the boot loose and all 8 wires from the pillar to the door were either bare or frayed. Thought that I might be able to buy the cable end with 8-10" leads, whatever it would take to reach the door, but no such luck, and the only option seems to be the entire $150 harness for the door. So the plan is to solder new wires to the ones in the door harness, fish them through the boot, and solder them to the plug. Not a big deal, but time consuming enough that I figured I would ask if anyone has done this and has any tips or suggestions. Thank you.
 
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Old 10-26-15, 12:28 PM
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Many many times my friend and I have big hands.

Certain foreign cars and many Dodge/Chrysler products have door wiring issues.
Your lucky it's only 8 wires. It could have been 20-30.

There is no easy way around it.... you need to pull the plug back and splice in new wires. On many of the cars I worked on it was only one wire so I would pull in one piece of wire and splice it. You should try working on the cars where the plugs is outside in the hinge area.... between the door and the car.

Be sure to use flexible wiring for the job. It needs to be fine stranded and not brittle or it won't last long. I used to get partial rolls of MTW (machine and tool wire) and use that.

Good luck.
 
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Old 10-26-15, 01:18 PM
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Well, okay then. Pretty much what I expected. I have the soldering gun, solder, wire, and shrink tube, and we'll be in the shop, but it's just a short walk to the stocked refrigerator in the garage, so just let me know what time you'll be by and I will be ready. Not happening? Oh well, we'll get 'er. Thank you much though.
 
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Old 10-28-15, 05:38 PM
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PJmax is dead-on with the fine wire (AKA High strand count). Also, match the conductor size (gague); don't go smaller.

If you plan to keep the vehicle for a while, you might want to add some extra length and loop it behind the kick panel (wire loom might be in order here). That way if it happens again, you only have one set of splices to make.

And, visit the refrigerator for me!
 
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Old 10-28-15, 05:43 PM
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I'm all the way on the other side of the forums and I can hear the fridge opening.

Is any work getting done here ? Is the job done yet ? No more drinking until finished.
 
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Old 10-28-15, 07:17 PM
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No, sorry to disappoint, but not even started yet, so guess I will be on the wagon for a couple of days. Not procrastinating, but too many things popping up, so had to re-prioritize. Anyway, have plenty of pretty much any size and color automotive wire, but made sense when you mentioned MTW, so pulled out what I have of that, and haven't had a chance yet to figure out if I have all of the right sizes. May have to swing over to McNaughton McKay, Grainger, or wherever, depending on what I have. Think I got it the last time though Electric Tool, but they closed their local store. Not worried about colors as I can keep them straight, but need to measure and count the strands of the original wires yet to see what they are. At first glance, looks like there may be three different sizes in there. Don't want to go too small, but doesn't seem to be enough space to go much larger either. Oh, and Tom, yes, I will be holding onto it for a bit, so going to do it right for sure. Not the most pleased with it in a few regards, but it has a lifetime powertrain warranty, so not going any place for a while.
 
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Old 11-09-15, 06:21 AM
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Sorry to bring back an almost two week old topic, but seems to be a more common problem than I was aware of, so figured I would share what I found. As mentioned before, all of my wires were broken or frayed, turned out to be nine if I remember correctly, so the connector at the pillar was easy; I simply cut the few that weren't already separated, carried the connector to the bench, used a couple of alligator clips to hold things in place, and, following PJ's and TOM's advice, soldered MTW leads to the leads from the connector. Now, everything would have been perfect had I been able to remove the individual blades from the connector, and solder directly to those, but close to an hour of fiddling with that approach proved futile, so the only option was to solder to the wire stubs coming out of the connector. Then I took the connector with the new leads to the truck, and got about six of them connected to the harness in the door before having an "uh oh" moment. The point of my initial solder points, where the wires had failed, was naturally at a point where the wires bend. Well, nothing unusual there, except that, in this case, again the rear door of a Ram quad cab, that is almost a full 180 degree bend. I looked at the front doors, the doors on my 'vette, my wife's doors, and even drove down the road to check out a couple of neighbor's doors. Yup, this particular bend is way more drastic than any others I looked at, and I could see no way that the solder joints were going to sustain this for long. So, in the end, I think this is a very doable repair on a lot of vehicles, with the hardest part frankly being getting the boots out and back into the doors and pillars, but I bit the bullet and replaced the harness in this case.
 
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Old 11-09-15, 01:21 PM
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It's a hard job for big hands. I had an installer with me that had small hands. He did the removing and reinstalling. I did the pulling out of the pins from the plugs.

I had many custom probes I used to unlock the pins.
 
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