Pop noise, drives like in low gear, burning smell rear tire - 95 Chevy c1500

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Old 02-02-16, 09:01 PM
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Pop noise, drives like in low gear, burning smell rear tire - 95 Chevy c1500

Was driving today about 40 mph and heard what sounded like a muffled pop or something, and the truck immediately started driving funny like it was under a heavy load, or in a lower gear. I thought a tire had popped, but when i got out to look nothing was wrong with the tires. Drove it home and it continued to feel like it was in a lower gear or something. In the driveway it seemed like there was a burning rubber smell coming from the passenger side rear tire.

Also, for the past month or so, the ABS light has been coming on sporadically.

Ideas? Something to do with the brake, or maybe the parking brake?

Pretty sure the rear brakes are drum brakes. Have replaced calipers and brake lines on the front brakes, but never messed with the rear ones before.
 
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Old 02-02-16, 09:43 PM
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It it were a brake binding problem..... the truck wouldn't roll if you had it on an incline. The fact that you have an ABS light on could mean a brake problem. It could mean a bearing problem and a sensor has been damaged.

You could take your truck to a place like Pep Boys, Advantage Auto or one of the big chain auto parts stores and they can scan your truck for free and tell you what code is set in the system.

However, it may not be wise to even drive it any length of distance. I'd recommend jacking up one wheel at a time, give it a spin and check for something rubbing or anything out of the ordinary.
 
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Old 02-28-16, 06:20 PM
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Thanks for the input, i had a leg injury the past few weeks and am just now getting able to work on this.

I jacked each side up, one at a time to see if the wheels would spin.

With the vehicle in neutral:

Driver side rear wheel spins by hand.

Passenger side rear wheel will NOT spin by hand.

The vehicle will drive, but it feels like there is a large load or something. So the tire will spin under acceleration, but i could not spin it by hand.

Also wanted to re-state that the ABS light had intermittently been coming on prior to this happening... not sure if it is related or not.
 
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Old 02-28-16, 07:39 PM
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really need to go further and pull the drums on the rear and inspect the brakes if your not up to it then you could always see a shop, the drum may be difficult to remove may have to back the adjuster all the way in and even then may be hard to get off if one of the springs broke but suspect a spring broke or something causing the brake to drag.
if you see a problem with the brake hardware you may want to replace most of the parts while your there like shoes, spring kit, wheel cylinders check the adjuster and drums add a adjuster kit or drums if needed.
 
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Old 02-28-16, 08:23 PM
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Thanks alan. Never messed with drum brakes before... I'll hit the youtube to watch some videos and have a go at it.
 
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Old 02-29-16, 04:57 AM
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Drum brakes are pretty simple although for some reason my kids think they are more difficult. If you run into any trouble while working on one side you can pull the drum on the other side to get a visual on how everything is connected.
 
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Old 03-04-16, 04:50 PM
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Okay well i got the drum off... it came off surprisingly easy compared to what i was expecting. I hit it with a hammer and it started moving, then pryed it out a little with a large screwdriver and hit it with a hammer till it came off.

When i removed it, the only issue i saw was that one of the brake pads had separated from the shoe and was loose in the drum.





None of the springs or anything else appeared damaged... so is it safe to say that the separated brake pad was the cause of my problem?

Never worked on drum brakes before, so here are some basic questions.

1. I'll be replacing the shoes on this wheel... do i need to replace the shoes on the opposite wheel at the same time? Here is a picture of the other wheel... i measured and there is a bit more than 1/4 inch of material left on the pads.

http://i.imgur.com/8ct8Dd7.jpg

2. The drum on the damaged wheel has several small grooves, and one large groove in it... does it need replaced, or will it still function sufficiently? Here is a picture:

http://i.imgur.com/DUFFTpE.jpg

The drum on the opposite wheel feels smooth all the way across it, so i assume it doesn't need replaced.

Thanks for all the help!
 
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Old 03-05-16, 04:03 AM
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You should always replace brakes in pairs [both rears or both fronts]
The drum with grooves can probably be turned unless that takes it out of spec, then it would need to be replaced. You could put on new shoes without turning the drums but it will cut grooves in the new shoes and reduce their life ..... I've done so when money was tight although the deeper the grooves the worse that idea becomes.
 
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Old 03-15-16, 07:40 PM
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thanks marksr.

Took the drum to an auto shop and they said it could be turned and still be within specs. $15 bucks. EZ-PZ.

I wasn't planning on doing anything with the wheel cylinder, but when i loosened the springs to lift the brake shoes off, the rubber boot and piston spontaneously fell off one side of the wheel cylinder... along with brake fluid of course. Not sure why it fell off like that, unless maybe the brake pad completely separating in the drum dislodged it or something.

Actually i just thought of something... i had to use my truck to haul something, so i put the drum back on with the loose pad removed, and the shoe just having the exposed metal base. I could hear it grinding in the brake drum, but it was already gouged anyway so i wasn't too worried about it. That was the side of the wheel cylinder that popped off... i wonder if driving without a brake pad might have caused it to overextend or something and get loose maybe?

Anyway, maybe i'll get a kit or just a new wheel cylinder... both are pretty cheap at $5 and $12 at oreillys, or even $6 for an entire cylinder on ebay... that is, if i dont just clean it up and put it back like it is. I'd go get a kit since it's already apart, but it doesn't have the pistons.. so then i might as well get the whole cylinder... but then i have to take the brake lines off and all that... not a big deal, but like everything else you go to make a simple repair and there is always something else that pops up to do, which leads to something else, and so on... haha.

Suppose i'll just suck it up and order a cylinder off ebay just to be safe, since the circumstances were a little unusual inside the brake drum for this failure... plus it's only $6.
 
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Old 03-16-16, 01:13 AM
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Yes driving without shoe could overextend the piston. Wheel cylinders fairly cheap replace both sides of truck.
 
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Old 03-16-16, 05:36 AM
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I used to always replace wheel cylinders in pairs because I had always heard that if you only replaced one the other would fail shortly BUT 20+ yrs ago money/time was tight so I only replaced one on my van and 10 yrs later the one I didn't replace was still doing fine. To be honest, I've only replaced a few wheel cylinders since then but only the bad one and never had an issue with the other one.
 
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Old 03-17-16, 09:17 AM
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Been mechanic 35+ years and for a pro it causes more problems than worth. Fix one and many times the other will start to leak. Fluid will go out the weakest point.
 
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