Very difficult time bleeding brakes

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  #1  
Old 04-26-16, 07:48 AM
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Very difficult time bleeding brakes

I'm having a very difficult time bleeding the lines after repairing the rear brakes . I can't seem to get the air bubbles out. I'm bleeding them myself and following the instructions. Sometimes the bubbles start when I CLOSE the bleeder valve. I even tried bleeding the rear brakes lines again.

I don't understand. I bled the rear lines a couple nights ago. I didn't see any more bubbles. Then I started with the right front wheel and everything went downhill fast.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-26-16, 08:02 AM
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I've been doing my own mechanical work for many years and I've never had 100% success when using that type of bleeding system so I retired it. I grab a hold of someone to hit the brake and am done in a few minutes.

Maybe someone has some positive and and helpful advice.
 
  #3  
Old 04-26-16, 08:15 AM
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I agree with PJ. It's better to have someone pump the brake. If that's not possible, just try a gravity feed. Open the bleeder screw & remove the cap from the master cyl, mix a drink & wait a few minutes.
 
  #4  
Old 04-26-16, 08:28 AM
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I don't have an assistant right now. Seriously, a few minutes for gravity bleeding? I heard it can take hours. I started to try that and the fluid stopped flowing. Is there any pumping involved with gravity bleeding?

Also the bleeder bottle I got with the kit is small. When you drain it, doesn't that risk letting air back into system? If you open the bleeder valve too far during bleeding will that also let air into the system?
 
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Old 04-26-16, 08:52 AM
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I tried one of those kits once. I didn't have any luck either. A few weeks ago, I replaced a rear wheel cylinder. I had the bleeder screw & master cyl opened. By time I put the drum on, the fluid was flowing. I haven't touched it since.
 
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Old 04-26-16, 09:05 AM
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Do you press the brake pedal any for gravity bleeding?

By the way, all 4 bleeder screws can all be screwed right out of the calipers and wheel cylinders for replacement........correct? I mean I don't have to remove calipers and wheel cylinders to remove bleeder valves? I might be wearing them out. I should get ready to replace them.
 
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Old 04-26-16, 09:11 AM
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Do you press the brake pedal any for gravity bleeding?
No because when you release it, air will be sucked back into the line.

all 4 bleeder screws can all be screwed right out of the calipers and wheel cylinders for replacement........correct?
Yes, if you think that it's necessary. You really didn't need to bleed the front.
 
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Old 04-26-16, 10:05 AM
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I just drove the truck. The brakes are working. But I don't understand why. I have to go to work. If I have a severe enough problem I'll take it to a garage or drive it home and try gravity bleed again. I'll get back thanks
 
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Old 04-26-16, 08:20 PM
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The brakes are working. But I don't understand why
I know why, because you followed my advice. LOL
 
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Old 04-27-16, 06:52 AM
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That's ok. I know the brakes still have to be bled. The pedal gets soft at low speeds and traffic lights. But the brakes are passable. I'm going to get speed bleeder valves and bleed them again.

When I install new bleeder valves, I don't have to drain out all the old brake fluid out do I? Just take off the old one and screw in the new ones real quick while it's dripping?

When I was trying to bleed them. I was pressing the pedal way down. Now someone tells me that can damage the MC. Hope I didn't do that
 
  #11  
Old 04-27-16, 07:04 AM
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I don't have to drain out all the old brake fluid out do I?
I would say no. However, these days there are people who say that brake fluid should be changed like motor oil. I don't buy it. In 45 years, I never changed brake fluid. I don't think that you damaged the master.
 
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Old 04-27-16, 07:25 AM
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When I unsuccessfully tried to bleed them a couple days ago, I replaced all the brake fluid anyway. Right now the brake fluid in the MC is so clean, you have to look closely to see the fill line.
 
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Old 04-27-16, 07:30 AM
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I wouldn't worry about it. I'm sure that it's fine.
 
  #14  
Old 04-27-16, 09:02 AM
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While I usually work alone and often gravity bleed the brakes when that isn't enough I get someone to help [often my wife] I'm currently replacing the front brakes on my stepson's jeep. Can't believe the caliper I replaced 13 months ago failed and burned up the pads. Hopefully the new caliper will be in by 3:30 like they promised. Anyway, it shouldn't be a big deal to commandeer someone for 5 minutes to pump/hold the brake pedal.
 
  #15  
Old 04-27-16, 09:59 AM
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This is not as difficult as it seems. Get a clean quart sized glass jar, a piece of vacuum hose that fits real snug on the bleeder. Fill the jar half way with clean fluid, put the hose on the bleeder and cut it to fit to the bottom of the jar, crack open the bleeder and slowly pump the pedal until there is no more air bubbling up in the fluid jar, finger tighten the bleeder and remove the hose and finish tightening. The glass jar is used so you can see when air bubbles stop coming out and the fluid in the jar prevents air from being sucked back into the line, plus you can monitor when the jar is getting full. If kept clean the fluid can be put back through the master cylinder for the next line to be bled. The sometime tricky part is seeing the progress at the wheel while pushing the brake pedal but with a little creativity and a long wooden rod it can be done. Or you can just go get you one of those pressure bleeder tanks but they aren't cheap. Hope this helps.
 
  #16  
Old 04-27-16, 10:24 AM
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Yeah. I need to use a larger container. Those tiny plastic bottles with the bleeder kits are ridiculous. Too small. I can't get an assistant to help me right now. With these speed bleeder valves I ordered, letting off the brake pedal automatically closes a check valve so I don't have to get out and close the valve again and again. A few questions please.

1. Do I need a cap with the bleeder jar?

2. How do I fasten the tube so it stays immersed in the jar of brake fluid.

3. I noticed before when I opened the bleeder valve screw, the stiff plastic hose would turn the screw towards closed again. How do I fasten the screw in the open position I want?
 
  #17  
Old 04-27-16, 01:08 PM
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I always discarded the fluid when done bleeding. Use new vacuum hose obtained at any auto parts store because it is soft and flexible, fit it on the bleeder and cut it length so it will just touch the bottom of the jar. The hose will turn with with the bleeder when opening and closing but being at the bottom of the jar of fluid it will not allow air into the system, working gently is the key since the hose isn't attached all that securely to the small bleed valve.
 
  #18  
Old 04-27-16, 01:17 PM
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You gravity bleed them should only take one small push of pedal to get last of air out. Do not let master cylinder go dry.
 
  #19  
Old 04-28-16, 07:23 AM
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When you open the bleeder valve 1/4 turn or whatever, it is loose on the threads and won't stay in the position you want because the bleeder hose will rotate the valve. What do you do about that?
 
  #20  
Old 04-28-16, 09:17 AM
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Shouldn't be an issue, have you tried repositioning the hose?
 
  #21  
Old 04-28-16, 02:30 PM
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I did try putting the hose in another position. I don't want the bleeder valve to open too much and let air back into the system.

I should get these new speed bleeder valves Friday or Saturday. I might be able to rig up something with a little clamp and cable tie to hold the valve in the 1/4 open position.
 
  #22  
Old 05-07-16, 04:27 PM
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I just installed the speedbleeders today. It fit the rear drum brakes. But it didn't fit the front disk brakes. It's too small for the threaded hole in the caliper. I purchased the correct part# from this company for sure. It is 3/8 X 24 threads per inch.

I gravity bled the front brakes and used the method for speedbleeders since they fit the rear. But I need to replace the front bleeder screws since the nuts are beginning to get stripped or rounded off.

I don't understand this. I don't do any customization or modification to my brakes. I just use the prescribed stock replacement parts when repairing brakes. I was supposed to be done with this today. And then I find the damn part doesn't fit!

What do I do now? The dealer is of no help. What would be the next larger size? Dorman lists a brakebleeder for my make/model with 7/16 X 20 threads per inch That's a little bit wider diameter than the one I currently have.
 
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