Patching up ruptured grease boot doesn't really work

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  #1  
Old 02-21-17, 09:35 AM
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Patching up ruptured grease boot doesn't really work

I ruptured the grease fitting rubber boot at the end of the Pitman Arm. I patched it up with some spare materials years ago. All the other steering gear parts are ok. I am increasingly performing more repairs myself. So this one is new to me as well.

I have a 92' Ford Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6 and touch drive 4WD

1. Do I need any special tool.........pitman arm tool or impact wrench? Or do I pound it out with something and use a torque wrench or socket wrench?

3.. Are the ball stud, grease fitting, and rubber boot separate parts I have to buy? I guess I was trying to visualize how the rubber boot would fit over the bare metal. The date on the attached photo is not correct. I took the photo today.

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  #2  
Old 02-21-17, 11:52 AM
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Boots come with parts, Have never seen they separate. I always use a big hammer and hit arm part where it goes around stud. Deforms medal slightly and stud pops out. I would not worry about that replacing that part till it goes bad. Just keep it greased.
 
  #3  
Old 02-21-17, 12:55 PM
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I do grease it regularly. When will I know when it absolutely needs replacing? It's been this way for about ten years
 
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Old 02-21-17, 01:11 PM
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When there is play in it, Jack up one wheel and Go back and forth wheel while watching for movement in stud area. Any looseness is bad.
 
  #5  
Old 02-21-17, 01:18 PM
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Can the boot/ball stud be re-used if I ever need to replace Pitman arm or something else?
 
  #6  
Old 02-21-17, 02:48 PM
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I can't think of any reason to change pitman arm. I have only seen one go bad when the nut on stub was loose and wobbled out the hole. Probably once in 40of wrench turning. I think on the stud is on center link on that truck..
 
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Old 02-21-17, 03:14 PM
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Ok thanks. I should check to see if it loose first.
 
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Old 02-22-17, 08:50 AM
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I got another question. I attached a diagram below. The circled part is the ball stud grease fitting. When I eventually replace circled part, do I disconnect the Pitman arm at steering gear also or just disconnect Pitman arm to ball stud bolt?

I understand that it might not need replacing just yet. But I can print out this discussion for future reference.


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  #9  
Old 02-22-17, 09:48 AM
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Leave pitman arm alone. Just take nut off hit pitarm at stud. Need puller to take pitman arm off and not necessary.
 
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Old 02-22-17, 11:37 AM
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I am think I am understanding this better now. I have been doing some research.

That drag link has a stud or end that inserts into that circled area.

So as long as there is no damage to steering linkage parts or ends.......................all I would need to do is replace the grease boot and zerk fitting when the time comes?

Am I correct?
 
  #11  
Old 02-22-17, 11:39 AM
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Yes but I have never seen boot sold separate but I haven't worked on cars in many years.
 
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Old 02-22-17, 12:03 PM
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Guy at the auto parts store said I would have to buy separate grease boot and zerk fitting.
I looked on Rock Auto. If I wanted a combined stud end/grease boot/zerk fitting assembly, I believe I would need a new drag link that includes all of this.

So I'm guessing I would buy separate boot and zerk fitting for may make/model.
 
  #13  
Old 02-22-17, 03:11 PM
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You can get those boots for under ten bucks from Oreillys and Autozone. All you do is borrow a ball joint spreader fork. They pop right off, stick on the boot and put it back together.
 
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Old 02-22-17, 08:22 PM
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Hopefully the drag link stud won't be bent or damaged.

I went to O'Reilly's today and the guy showed me the grease boot and fork tool you mentioned.

I don't have to replace the grease fitting? I'm not sure I could anyway. I think that might come included with the drag link
 

Last edited by bluesbreaker; 02-22-17 at 08:44 PM.
  #15  
Old 02-23-17, 04:52 AM
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A zerk fitting will be included with the appropriate parts, and no reason to replace it until you do replace an entire part, but the parts store will have those separately if you can't resist.
 
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Old 02-23-17, 06:06 AM
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Zerk/grease fittings are easy to replace [assuming you have decent access] but the only reason to replace one would be if it's plugged. You can tell that if when you pump in grease it comes back out thru the fitting and doesn't fill the joint.
 
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Old 02-23-17, 08:57 AM
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The grease fitting still works because I lubed the ball stud the other day and it leaked through the tear in the boot as usual!

Just out of curiosity.................how does one install the grease fitting? Does it screw in?
 
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Old 02-23-17, 09:25 AM
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Screws out and screws in. usually a 5/16 or 3/8 wrench
 
  #19  
Old 02-23-17, 09:41 AM
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This is all very helpful. Thanks
 
  #20  
Old 04-26-17, 01:27 PM
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I completed repair this morning. I replaced grease boot, castle nut, and cotter pin. And refilled new grease boot. Nothing fancy. Thanks again.
 
  #21  
Old 04-26-17, 01:31 PM
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Repair done

Friends, just to let you know I completed repair titled Patching up ruptured grease boot doesn't really work
from 2/21. Original posting updated too.
 
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Old 04-26-17, 03:43 PM
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No new thread needed. I merged the threads.
 
  #23  
Old 04-26-17, 08:08 PM
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Ok...................Thanks Larry.
 
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